Fix it or part out? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 10-15-2011, 05:48 AM
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Fix it or part out?

Fix it or part out?-imageuploadedbyautoguide1318685891.611201.jpg
Fix it or part out?-imageuploadedbyautoguide1318685905.817376.jpg
Fix it or part out?-imageuploadedbyautoguide1318685925.625275.jpg

As you can see from the pics it's got some pretty bad rust. Frame is still solid but im wondering if it's worth the work.

To pass inspection:
New body (cab might be repairable)
Core support (have one rust free)
Shocks
Ball joints
Universals
Muffler, DP, exhaust
Rear wheel cylinders
Rear fuel tank leaks


Interior is in nice shape with xlt package. It's got 280k and runs pretty good. It smokes a little black at idle and lays a little line going down the road.



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Old 10-15-2011, 05:25 PM
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Well...anything is fixable. It wouldn't be that hard to do down here, because we have access to lots of rust free body parts. I'm not sure how hard it is to find rust free stuff in PA, but if you can track it down, I'd fix it up. At least here, these trucks have gotten a lot harder to find in just a year.
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Old 10-15-2011, 07:21 PM
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Well all the rust free parts I've already tracked down. Have 2 sets of front fenders, core support, hood, and a full dent free bed and tailgate.
The only thing I can't find cheap is a new extended cab.

I'm just worried I'll get way to much into it just to get to a point where I'd start modding. I'd really like to know why it's always smoking. Found out I've got a cracked leaf spring pack in the back


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Old 10-15-2011, 09:44 PM
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There's a cab on Asheville, NC Craigslist right now. 500 bucks and it's in primer. I went through the same thing on mine though. I gave $3500 for it, and then I got into it and found ways to spend $5k without doing any mods. That being said, I'm getting ready to start modding, the injectors are going out Monday. In my experience, it's worth doing a very thorough check and making a list (including high side cost) before you tear into anything. If you've got all the body parts, the rest of it's easy. From the looks of it, the rot on the cab would be fixable with patch panels. NPD had some the last time I looked.
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Old 10-15-2011, 10:19 PM
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With that kinda mileage its turbo related, check the up pipes and donuts for leaks and id even go check the turbo wheel to see what it looks like. I say rebuild it but be super picky about how you do it. If you have the means to do it then take your time and wait for the right parts
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Old 10-15-2011, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgg93 View Post
There's a cab on Asheville, NC Craigslist right now. 500 bucks and it's in primer. I went through the same thing on mine though. I gave $3500 for it, and then I got into it and found ways to spend $5k without doing any mods. That being said, I'm getting ready to start modding, the injectors are going out Monday. In my experience, it's worth doing a very thorough check and making a list (including high side cost) before you tear into anything. If you've got all the body parts, the rest of it's easy. From the looks of it, the rot on the cab would be fixable with patch panels. NPD had some the last time I looked.
Don't mean to hijack, but you from asheville?
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  #7  
Old 10-16-2011, 05:55 AM
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If I had the time to go down there id be hooked up to my trailer and in virginia by now.

I'll check out the turbo today and see what it looks like along with the up pipes. The cab corners should be fixable. I was going to take it to a body shop for them. The rest I can do myself.

So far I'm in $2000 on the truck including transportation to get it home. I picked up my core support, front, fenders, hood, and tailgate for $285... All from NC rust free. Also got a full regular cab 250 4x4 rust free with dent free bed and tailgate for +$200 now that I sold the motor and tranny out of it.


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Old 10-16-2011, 08:19 AM
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You are still ahead of the game, nice thing is with redoing it is you dont have suprises. You know whats in there and how it all works
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