Engine oil leak...
I just got a 97 F-250 and am having a bit of an oil leak in two places. One tiny puddle forms just off center to right of the engine center behind the axel, and the other is on the far left side almost under to the wheel. I'm going to clean the engine this week as best as I can and see if I can trace the leak inside. Any tips on isolating/identifying the leak would help as well as tips on replacing gaskets or other mitigation tactics.
Check the oil pan first. Lose bolts will make the pan rail leak. On the right side, the dipstick tube/pan flange can leak, requiring new o-rings. Oil cooler and filter could be culprit of left side leak.
Ok so I removed the starter today to check the flange. It's not the flange. There is a slow drip from the starter mount that is coming from above. The bell housing and starter were covered with caked on oil and dirt. The engine valley shows no sign of oil. Is there anything else I should check before I drop the tranny to replace the RMS?
Added 2 bottles of Bar's Engine Leak Stop... will let you all know how it works out.
Last edited by DurangoDiesel; 10-18-2011 at 04:41 PM.
I don't think I would anything like Bar's to the engine oil as it is also used in the High Pressure Oil System for the injectors. Hopefully it won't mess them up. Check the engine valley for evidence of leaking there (it will drain down the passenger side rear of the block when it builds up enough. Also, check the large (about 2" in diameter with a 1/2" square drive recess) plugs on both ends of each head. These seal the ends of the high pressure oil rails and are known leakers. Another thing to check is the turbo pedestal o-rings and the Exhaust back pressure valve actuator (also on the pedestal). Of course, cleaning the engine as godd as you can will help. Cheers!
I used the specific purpose formula for rear main seals. The stuff is designed to swell the vulcanized rubber/fiber composition of the gasket. It does not bond to metal surfaces or grime inside the engine and so should not affect the high pressure oil system for the injectors.
Again, I have confirmed that this leak is indeed a rear main seal leak. The engine valley is spotless, the turbo is spotles and its surrounds are spotless. The entire top of the engine looks like it rolled off the assembly line, no oil, no dirt, nothing to obscure any leaks should they be there. The cylinder heads are clean. The only oil is on the bell housing and and the starter motor (it drips actively from the starter motor). I have investigated and ruled out the dip stick flange and any of the oil pan bolts. It's the RMS for sure. I am actually looking forward to dropping the tranny next summer to replace that gasket, hell I might go ahead and put a new tranny in while I am at it as the current one is a bit jumpy going from 1st to 2nd. It's got almost 200k miles on it. Cheers everybody!
Good and bad news. The good news is that the oil leak has stopped. Bar's Rear Main Seal Leak Stop WORKED in my case. The bad news is that when the oil stopped leaking I am now able to see a fuel leak dripping from the bell housing, in the same area the oil leak had come from (of course not from the RMS). What do I need to check now? Will search the forums.
Posting this for my future use.
FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT by Sam Miller
I recommend disconnecting batteries. There is no way to work around the glow plug relay without touching it. Then set up a parts tray, run a good light, throw a pad over the radiator and go for it.
Also, if you have a HPX crossover hose installed, it is easier if you disconnect it from the passenger side oil rail and tie it out of the way. Remove "Y" pipe (compressor manifold) from turbo, taking care not to lose the rubber O-ring inside the fitting (Marmon clamp). If you loosen only the lower clamps on the two silicone hoses the whole assembly can be removed easily and set aside. Cover the openings with rags or plastic wrap and secure with rubber bands.
Draining the fuel filter/water separator canister. You will want to either place a container under the vehicle to catch the diesel (a hose pushed on to the drain tube sure prevents a mess), or pump the canister dry once you get the filter out, in which case you won’t slide the yellow lever to "DRAIN." This is a good occasion to inspect and clean the interior of the canister, so removal of the filter and heater is advised. (Remember, the plastic heater standpipe is LEFT HAND THREADS.) A 7/8" crow’s foot wrench works best, but I have loosened it with a regular open-end wrench. Pull off the heater wire connector with needle-nose pliers. Now you can clean the canister and check for cracks or leaks. You’ll be amazed at the crud in there.
Disconnecting hoses. There are two hoses connected to the top of the pump and one at the bottom. The two top hoses are protected by a removable clip-on heat shield (just yank it off). You can only get to the clamp on the pump side of that bottom hose. And finally, the water drain hose at the front passenger side of the filter housing.
Remove the two bolts attaching the fuel pressure regulator with 10mm and carefully pry it back from the filter housing, taking care not to lose the O-ring. Good time to clean the screen and examine condition of O-ring. There is also a short section of 5/16" hose that may need to be replaced.
Separate the wire harness connector on the passenger side of canister and remove positioning clamp with 8mm. It will NOT slide off the tongue of the clamp as you think it might, since the tongue is barbed. (Remind you of anyone?)
Disconnect wires connected to the canister, two on drivers side, one at bottom rear. (So now you want to know what they are? Aw geez, you’re one of THOSE GUYS: Oh, all right: on the driver’s side, the top connector on the side of the Water Filter/Water Separator Assembly is the fuel heater connection; the connector directly beneath it links to the Water Sensor; and the connector on the bottom rear of the Assembly is for the filter restriction sensor. I believe it is a vacuum switch. Note: In 1996 the fuel filter restriction sensor was moved to the fuel pressure regulator, driver’s side of filter housing. Happy now?)
To continue: Two bolts holding down the filter canister are 13mm. You can lift the whole filter assembly up and forward out of the way with the long blue hose still connected at the bottom.
Getting the pump out is not difficult, using a 1 1/4 inch box end wrench, heated and bent to clear the turbo pedestal, while removing the large banjo bolt. You just have to be patient and content with getting only small incremental turns on it. It takes a while. The two metal ring-gaskets will sometimes remain stuck to the banjo fitting. You can remove them once the pump is out of the way. You do not have to remove or loosen the fuel supply tubes connected to the banjo fitting.
Remove the two 10 mm bolts holding down the pump and carefully remove the pump from the crankcase bore. It will take some twisting and pulling. Be careful here so as not to lose the tappet into the cam crankcase. That would not be good. Examine your new pump to see how the tappet connects. Eventually you'll be able to lift the pump straight up and out of the engine.
Cover or stuff a rag into the pump hole and it's a good time to clean the entire valley. Kind of like being on a treasure hunt, you'll be amazed at what you find down there; valve caps, wire ends, wedding rings, cat hair, baseball gloves, wrenches... It's a lot of fun getting back all your tools.
Check out the exterior of the fuel filter canister. Clean the three wire terminals, check for leaks or cracks and clean everything so if a leak shows up later you'll know exactly where it originates.
Time to put things back together. Remove the two metal banjo gaskets if you haven't already. You might need a knife blade to get them loose. Be sure the interior of the banjo fitting is clean and free of debris.
Hoses: I got 3/8 inch 400 psi fuel hose from NAPA by the foot (by the inch, actually) and simply cut new hoses to match the old ones, three altogether on the pump and a 5/16 inch hose on the regulator. I installed them at this point, along with the clamps. I recommend tightening the clamps just enough so they are "pre-positioned." When the time comes to give them a final set it makes it easier not to have to chase them around with two hands. (One exception: the hose clamp on the bottom of the filter assembly must be tightened completely. You just can’t get to it once everything else is in place.)
If nothing fell into the hole or onto the cam then lower the new pump. I use a little anti-seize on the housing, thinking it might make removal next time a little easier. Grease should already be on the O ring, but if not, I'd grease it. Tighten the bolts carefully and evenly to secure the pump. Make sure the pump does not get in a bind. Just tighten evenly and it should go into the bore ok, regardless of how the cam eccentric is positioned.
The hardest part of the whole operation, for me at least, was getting the banjo bolt restarted. You will quickly come to understand why the shop manual calls for removal of the turbo pedestal for this operation. (Plus, more shop time equals more money. duh!) You will wish you had a Dremel tool and could cut away some of the "webbing" between the legs of the pedestal. It’s a bit of a struggle, figuring out how to position your hands and fingers for the most efficient way to start that large bolt.
Slide one new metal gasket onto the bolt, insert it into the banjo housing and have the second gasket ready to slide into the slot on the interior side of the fitting as you push the bolt in. It may take a couple of attempts to get that second gasket onto the bolt. Just be sure it doesn’t slide on through the fitting and disappear on top of the manifold. Now you just have to carefully turn the bolt with some pressure behind it to "catch" the threads. Once it's started, then it is just a matter of wrenching it in, one tooth at a time. Here's where patience comes in again. Eventually you'll get it in. Then snug it down, recheck the pump hold down bolts for tightness and you're through the worst of it. Time for a congratulatory coffee break. Sometimes even an adult beverage is deservedly appropriate here…
Adjust all the hoses and be sure the clamps are on and positioned for easy access. (Once again, the lower hose will have to be clamped securely to the filter canister at this point since you won’t be able to reach it once the assembly is bolted down.) Lower the filter assembly back onto its pedestal, connecting the lower hose to the fuel pump as you go. Check that the wiring looms and connectors on both sides are positioned correctly. Adjust all three short hoses correctly and tighten the clamps. Remember to "aim" the clamps for easy access later, just in case there is a leak and you need to get to them with a screwdriver or ¼ inch socket. Don’t forget to reconnect the drain hose also. And CLOSE THE YELLOW WATER DRAIN LEVER.
Install the two 13mm bolts securing the filter housing (I use just a touch of anti-seize) and tighten. Plug in the three wire connectors to the canister and join the loom connectors on the passenger side. Reinstall the 8mm hold-down bracket. (or probably like most of us do, just wire-tie the connector to the GP loom).
Re-attach the FPR, being careful to install the O-ring. Tighten the two 10mm bolts evenly so the O-ring sets properly.
Reconnect HPX hose, the "Y" pipe (don’t forget the O-ring) and whatever else you might have removed or disconnected. It is a good time to also re-dry the manifold. Looking for leaks will be a lot easier if everything underneath starts out dry. A long screwdriver and some paper towels work great. Just be sure to get them all back out before you finish.
Check everything twice. Pry back up whatever wires and brackets and connectors and hoses you mashed by laying on them. If it all looks good, reconnect the batteries and you are ready to start.
I leave the heat shield covering the two tops hoses off at this point, just so I can look for leaks once things are up and running. Don’t forget to eventually snap it back on, cause there is a lot of heat back there and the hoses will definitely last longer.
A couple of notes here: If you shimmed the FPR, I would remove the shim at this point and start over with a stock set-up. Once you are up and running again, you can work the pressure back up towards the 70’s, using whatever shims work best.
A NOTE OF CAUTION: The FPR housing is very fragile. It is extremely easy to crack the housing by over tightening the Schrader valve or any fittings you might insert to accommodate a PSI gauge. BE VERY LIGHT ON THE TOUCH WHEN TIGHTENING ANYTHING INTO THE SCHRADER VALVE OPENING.
If everything is working ok, it should fire up within a few cranks. Thereafter, it takes a while to purge the air, usually a couple dozen miles of driving before things begin to settle back in to near normal.
WARNING: You will want to take a good light and look for leaks after the engine is running. BE CAREFUL. The fan and belt can change your nickname to Three-Fingered Jack in a heartbeat.
With any luck at all, you are dry as a bone and ready to roll. Check it again after your test-run.
P.S. Feel free to email me with any suggestions, corrections or improvements to these instructions. Hopefully it will help a few other guys save a bunch of money by doing it themselves.
PUMP: (sometimes referred to as a Lift Pump)
Ford number: F6TZ-9350-A
International number: 1824415C92
Master number for NAPA, Shucks, AutoZone, etc.: 61067
Banjo Gaskets (metal washers, two required):
Ford number: F4TZ-9A375-A
International number: 1820650C1
Fuel line O-ring: (rear of head, passenger side; F4TZ-9A387-A
just back of intake on valley side
of head, driver's side)
Ford and (Motorcraft) numbers:
Black hose, 1 required: F4TZ-9324-BA (KFL34)
Longer Blue hose, 1 required: F4TZ-9324-CA (KFL33)
Shorter Blue hoses, 2 required: F4TZ-9324-DA (KFL35)
Hose information for DIY:
Rated at 400 psi and ok for diesel fuel:
3/8" hoses: 2 required 2 " (fuel tank to pump &
low pressure feed from filter to pump)
1 required 2 7/8" (fuel pump outlet to filter)
5/16" hoses: 1 required 1 ¾" (FPR tubing)
1 required 5" (if replacing drain hose)
Fuel Filter Heater: Ford F5TZ-9J294-A
External Connector F4TZ-9C065-A
Fuel Filter Lid – OEM International: 1825190C91
Crankcase Breather O-Rings:
Ford F4TZ-6769-A (small, seals screw head, 1/pack)
Ford F4TZ-6769-C (large, seals breather adapter to
International 1824452C2 valve cover, 2/pack)
Water Sensor Probe Ford# F4TZ-9S281-A
Fuel Filter Restriction Sensor: 1994/95-bottom of filter assembly; 1996/97-on fuel regulator.
Ford # E8TZ-9S283-A
International # 1809435C1
Fuel Pressure Regulator California Kit part number F6TZ-9K061-AA
FPR Spring International # 1825854C1 (CA)
FPR Screen International # 1823658C91
FPR Screen Ford # "Orifice Vent Kit" F5TZ-9A214-A
FPR Kit Ford # F6TZ-9157-BA
O-ring dimensions: Width: 1/16" Diameter: 9/16"
Turbo Y-Pipe O-Ring: Ford: F4TZ-9E436-A International: 1818372C1
Turbo Pedestal O-Rings: (between pedestal & block; pedestal & turbo)
Ford: F4TZ-6N653-A & F4TZ-6N653-B
Turbo Exhaust Up-Pipes: Ford: F4TZ-6K854-A (Driver side)
Ford: F6TZ-6K854-A (Passenger side)
Turbo Exhaust Collector Donut: (Top of each manifold to turbo up-pipe)
Oil Gallery Plug: International: 1822607C91 (O-Ring not sold separately)
IPR O-Ring Kit:
FUEL PUMP OPERATION
Fuel is drawn from the fuel tank by the diaphragm section of the fuel pump (top hose-driver’s side). The fuel pump circulates fuel at low pressure (approximately 3 to 10 psi), first through the fuel filter (top hose-passenger side) and then back to the second stage of the fuel pump (bottom hose from filter to pump).
During the second stage, the piston-actuated section of the fuel pump supplies fuel at a pressure of approximately 40 psi into the cylinder head fuel galleries.