Tips before buying 97 PSD - suggestions please... - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-02-2011, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Tips before buying 97 PSD - suggestions please...

I'm looking at a 97 PSD in an F250, 2wd auto with 151k today and want to know specific things to look closely at prior to purchasing. I'm a mechanical engineer by day so I'm not ignorant of mechanical systems but I've never owned a PSD and I fiqured you folks could point me to obvious places for inspection. What should I focus on particularly to make sure the PSD is sound and not in need of major high $ repairs? Also, what auto tranny came in these 97's and are they well built? I would really like a 5 speed but may have to settle for the auto simply because I can't find exactly what I want. This truck as the "C9" code rear axle (3.55 limited slip), it's crewcab and is exactly what I want besides the tranny. Owner says he bought it new in 97 and the tranny went out in 99 and was replace under warranty. No major repairs since. Let me know what to look at folks. I'm excited about owning a PSD...
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post #2 of 8 Old 06-02-2011, 01:03 PM
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Check the typical standard truck stuff - fluids, fluid leaks, service records, ball joints, ujoints, etc. For PSD related check this link about 1/3 the way down is a section entitled "What to look for when buying a Powerstroke". - http://pages.prodigy.net/stevebaz/_i...az/index3.html

I too was looking for a 5 speed manual but found a great deal on an automatic - my first automatic truck. Mine has the E4OD as yours prob'ly does. It has served me well so far (211K miles on original tranny and still shifting great) but before I do any big HP mods the tranny will be the first thing to get upgraded.


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1995 F350 CCLB 4X4
TW tunes, GS gauges & Aeroforce Interceptor, 3" RSK w/SD springs
DIY 6637, 3" DP to straight exhaust, HPX Crossover,
16x10 AR rims, 315/75R-16 Goodyear Duratrac
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post #3 of 8 Old 06-02-2011, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks pmasterson. I saw and drove the truck for the 1st time right after I posted my original email you responded to. It's nice, F250 crew cab short bed with 3.55 gears and limited slip. Yes, it has the same auto as yours that is my only regret but I'll learn to live with it. It shifts great, starts great, has good cold air and drives straight. I like it and I'm meeting the guy in a couple of hours to pay him and take it home with me - $6800!!! I think I got a good deal given what I've seen them sell for lately. It has 151k miles and is in real good shape. Only negatives are a cracked dashed (not bad but doesn't look new), cracked windshiled, and 1 power window won't roll down. It's got new tires, never had a gooseneck or 5th wheel in it ever. Simply pulled a bumper pull camper for 3 years with it. I did the blowby test by turning the oil filler cap upside down and it simply vibrated over to the side of the valve cover gradually - no blow by at all that I can tell. The oil was good and clean, motor ran real cool. I could tell it has a newer water pump on it as well. I like the heck out of it.
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-02-2011, 01:40 PM
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-Matt

Late 99 (2/99) Black F250, CC LB 4x4 Lariat 214k. All Stock for the moment...

1995 PSD, ext cab, one wheel wonder
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, 297k miles, 30k on wvo. totaled 5/8/11 RIP This truck is for sale as a parts truck (Jason is about to receive forged rods, and drop kick his PMR's)
DB high torque starter
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DIY Electric fuel w/ wvo conversion

"A clean house is a sign of a mis-lead life."
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post #5 of 8 Old 06-02-2011, 02:41 PM
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welcome to the org and sounds like a nice truck, got piks yet? and hell i found a 94.5 psd crew cab 5-speed for like 4k in ga on craigslist, i just dont want a stick, but also high mileage as well like 311k miles

-Kris-
2000 excursion V10 2wd 230k
2000 Excursion 7.3 4x4 246k
1995 CCLB DRW 324K
2001 CCLB DRW 319K
Dp tuner infinity, exhaust, intake, chipped, tricked, and wrecked
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post #6 of 8 Old 06-02-2011, 02:45 PM
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My truck originated in Alaska but spent most of it's time in Arizona also before I bought it so barely any rust underneath! Sounds like a good deal and a good truck. I looked at plenty of crewcabs around here with + 300K miles in that same price range. Wouldn't hurt to change all the fluids and filters for peace of mind. I do on all used vehicles I buy....and yeah, post up a pic.


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1995 F350 CCLB 4X4
TW tunes, GS gauges & Aeroforce Interceptor, 3" RSK w/SD springs
DIY 6637, 3" DP to straight exhaust, HPX Crossover,
16x10 AR rims, 315/75R-16 Goodyear Duratrac
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post #7 of 8 Old 06-02-2011, 09:06 PM Thread Starter
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I'll post a pic pretty soon. I picked it up this afternoon and I've been driving around enjoying it ever since. Good cold a/c, tranny shifts nice and firm with no hesitation, all seems well. Truck drives like a new one. It's just had a recent oil change but I don't know for sure if the fuel filter was changed or not. What brand filter should I use? I've always run Wix in my tractors. Is there any particular reason not to run Wix in this truck? Also, this appears to be a cartridge type fuel filter at the top center of the engine. Is the fuel pump electrical so that when I change the fuel filter no air will get in the lines resulting in bleeding the injectors? Also, is a K&N air filter worth the money or simply run a stock Motorcraft with the outer foam sleeve? I'm new to this guys, just want suggestions. Thanks.
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post #8 of 8 Old 06-03-2011, 05:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fixitforfree View Post
I'll post a pic pretty soon. I picked it up this afternoon and I've been driving around enjoying it ever since. Good cold a/c, tranny shifts nice and firm with no hesitation, all seems well. Truck drives like a new one. It's just had a recent oil change but I don't know for sure if the fuel filter was changed or not. What brand filter should I use? I've always run Wix in my tractors. Is there any particular reason not to run Wix in this truck? Also, this appears to be a cartridge type fuel filter at the top center of the engine. Is the fuel pump electrical so that when I change the fuel filter no air will get in the lines resulting in bleeding the injectors? Also, is a K&N air filter worth the money or simply run a stock Motorcraft with the outer foam sleeve? I'm new to this guys, just want suggestions. Thanks.
Sweet! Sounds like it was well taken care of.

I use an oem ford fuel filter. I haven't used the Wix but I believe I've heard that there is some kinda issue with the oring. The pump is mechanical and I don't have any air in the lines issues. I drain off just of bit of fuel and pull the filter out slowly as to not spill any fuel and install the new filter slowly so as not to push out any fuel. Like any combustion engine, intake and exhaust mods give relatively inexpensive gains. Tymar air intake is real popular as well as a DIY intake with a NAPA 6637 filter. They both will let it breath much better than stock and stop more particles than the K&N will. If you still have the stock downpipe replacing it along with the intake is a great "bang for the buck" performance mod. The factory downpipe is a genuinely restrictive POS.

Use the search function and you'll find plenty of write-ups for the intake, downpipe, exhaust, fuel additives, etc. I use Power Service Diesel Kleen (because it's available just about anywhere) and I also add 3/4 ounce per gallon of Super Tech Outboard 2 cycle TC-W3 for added lubricity to the USLD. There are plenty of debates and threads on that subject as well but I have found the 2-cycle oil to quiet my injectors considerably. I also drain the fuel bowl/water separator about once per month to get rid of the water. Can't remember the diameter but I installed some fuel hose on the drain tube so I can drain it into a container without making a mess all over the driveway. Others will prob'ly chime in with more info I'm forgetting. Pace yourself on reading the modifications threads - it can be contagious!


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1995 F350 CCLB 4X4
TW tunes, GS gauges & Aeroforce Interceptor, 3" RSK w/SD springs
DIY 6637, 3" DP to straight exhaust, HPX Crossover,
16x10 AR rims, 315/75R-16 Goodyear Duratrac
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