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Old 05-28-2011, 09:43 PM
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Exclamation 95 No Start

I have a 95 F250 that is sitting at a friend's house right now. A few days ago it started buzzing every time I turned the ignition on to start it. Today I came out to start it and the batteries were deadish so I bump started it and ran it for about 20 minutes on the way over to the friend's house. I got in to start it and it started buzzing and then all the lights dimmed. I figured it was the batteries so I tested them and they had 12.84 volts (that is what they say when they are fully charged) and when it was running I tested the alternator and everything had 14.something volts while running. I had the alternator, starter, starter relay, and a battery recently replaced. The ignition switch is just about worn out (I use the key from my former Ford Ranger ignition and door to start it). I used my VOM to test each battery and the starter relay (both sides) and the starter and alternator and they all had 12.8 volts. Now when I turn the key on, the dash lights are very dim and it doesn't even want to try to start and the dome light is dim. If I wait and don't touch the ignition and open the door the dome light is bright and the headlights come on brightly, but if I try to turn the ignition on then everything goes dim. I tried to start with the little box unplugged and it didn't do any better, it just didn't buzz. I don't know what is wrong with this thing..... HELP!
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Old 05-29-2011, 05:29 AM
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Little box...???? Sounds like a bod connection at one of the batteries. Did you test each battery with it disconnected from the truck?
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Old 05-29-2011, 06:12 AM
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The little box is under the dash right above the hump in the floor for the tranny and it's white. I opened it and it had little copper windings in it. The batteries are good and I even tried jump starting it so it's not a lack of power. It's just when I turn the key on then everything acts like it's dead
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Old 05-29-2011, 09:16 AM
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Check all the battery connections. Check wires at starter solenoid on the fender. Check ground cables on block and fenders. Check the yellow wire on the side of the underhood fuse box. If that all checks out, try disconnecting the GP relay, you may have something shorted in the GP system causing a high load and dropping the voltage.
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:44 AM
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Mototime2000:
One battery was at 6.7V and the other at 12.8V, so I disconnected the strong battery and hooked jumper cables to the weak one (the one right before the starter) and charged it to 14.4V and hooked up a loose wire to the ignition cylinder and rehooked the other battery and it fired up and the buzzing noise went away.

alberta 7.3: I replaced the starter relay and the alternator and starter in January. GPR is good and I have new plugs in it. I checked all (+) connectors and they were all tight but I forgot the negatives.


Could it be the ignition wearing out? Is the ignition difficult to replace? I can use just about any Ford key to start the thing it doesn't lock out for the wrong keys.

Also the one battery was low because the driver side battery (+) positive lead was coming off, it's still a good battery (65DLG for both of them).
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Old 05-29-2011, 10:55 AM
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The ignition switch and ignition lock cylinder are two completely different items. If there was a loose wire at the lock clyinder, its for the key in door open dinger. The switch on the older trucks were known to seperate and cause either a no start, start and shut off when you let go of the key(in the start to run position) or even a fire.

If I were you I would check all connections at both batteries, starter solenoid, etc and retest. If you clean and charged one battery and it runs its obviously a battery/cable/connection issue.
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