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  #2611 (permalink)  
Old 11-18-2012, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by judgesblind View Post
Alright thanks good to know. I just didnt want cause any unnecessary wear or anything
Honestly the only thing that can burnout is the element. It would be like a water heater element, which will one day burn out.
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  #2612 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2012, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by glovemeister View Post
No. It is just a supplemental heating method. From my understanding it is best to plug it in right after you get done driving it for the night. I've always thought you could use a timer and turn it on for an hour or so before driving it. Apparently that maybe isn't so good, but I am trying to find the source for that.
If u find this post it up. I plug mine under 40 ( i know "that's not cold") ive got it on a timer. Kicks on at 2am i leave at 530. So far works great,but it hasn't been too cold yet. Nights in the teens may be a different story
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  #2613 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2012, 08:03 AM
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Theoretically that makes sense if it's really cold because it never lets the block full get cold and it seems like it would be better not to get the block get down into the teens or whatever it is....? Er maybe

Quote:
Originally Posted by glovemeister View Post
Honestly the only thing that can burnout is the element. It would be like a water heater element, which will one day burn out.
Is the heating element easy to change? Is it actually located right above the oil filter where the cord screws into the block?
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  #2614 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2012, 05:24 PM
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Finally did I buzz test and what not. Injector one is shot. But it also threw codes on all the injectors but the contribution test said only one was weak so idk.
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  #2615 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2012, 05:31 PM
the baconator
 

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alright boys and girls - looking for some other ideas or something i may have overlooked.

on my 97 i have started to starting the truck. every once in a while you get in and turn the key the WTS light doesn't come on and relay #2 (the one that controls the IDM) buzzes you urn the key the truck will crank but not fire. you pull that relay out the buzzing stops, the WTS light comes on it cranks but won't fire (duh there's no power to the IDM), my way around this has been to disconnect and then reconnect the IDM from the harness every time I have done this the problem seems to have magically cured itself. It has done this with to separate IDMs and one of those two i have run in my 94 no problems. I am thinking that there is either a problem with the PCM or some kind of problem in the wiring. but I don't know where to start looking though i believe my cousin has a PCM i can borrow, other than swapping that i am thinking of working my way through the wiring to the IDM

have ideas/thoughs/opinions would be appreciated
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  #2616 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2012, 06:24 PM
drives a ranger
 

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Check the ground that comes off the IDM harness. Also next time it does its buzzing thing check the power wire into the IDM. Other than that I have no idea
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  #2617 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2012, 07:21 PM
De-rail in 3... 2... 1...
 

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When it does this pull the relay instead to see if it has the same effect as pulling the wiring. If it doesn't change then its between the relay and ground after the IDM. If it does work then it's something before the relay or the relay itself. Swap 2 and 3. And test again.
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  #2618 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2012, 07:23 PM
De-rail in 3... 2... 1...
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996powerst0ke View Post
Finally did I buzz test and what not. Injector one is shot. But it also threw codes on all the injectors but the contribution test said only one was weak so idk.
Are these the same injector?
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  #2619 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2012, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by judgesblind View Post
Theoretically that makes sense if it's really cold because it never lets the block full get cold and it seems like it would be better not to get the block get down into the teens or whatever it is....? Er maybe



Is the heating element easy to change? Is it actually located right above the oil filter where the cord screws into the block?
I think that is the reasoning behind it, but for the life of me I'm not able to find it.

Yeah, they are easy. You just unplug the cord and unscrew the element. Coolant will drain out, as obviously the heater is in the water jacket. If you are quick you can minimize coolant loss.

To clarify on my earlier posting. I didn't mean for it to sound like block heater elements go out frequently, they really don't. One every 7-15 years I would expect, which is about the life of a water heater element. However, those are constantly on in cycles.
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  #2620 (permalink)  
Old 11-19-2012, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BigFuel View Post
Are these the same injector?
Yes, sorry for the confusion number one is defiantly bad. But it confused us that they all through a code on a buzz test. But all were loud in a buzz test except number one which was considerably quieter
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