turbo removal - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 08-30-2010, 04:57 PM Thread Starter
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turbo removal

I need to remove my turbo, and my turbo pedestal to do my orings. I'm having trouble getting to the bottom downpipe bolt underneath the turbo. Does anyone have a write up for doing this or does anyone have any tips or pictures to help?

95' 7.3L PSD ECLB Rare Blue :-)
- 4" Custom Straight Pipe
- 3" MBRP Downpipe

Future mods: TW Chip, ISSpro Gauges, 4in Lift...and much much more!


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post #2 of 8 Old 08-30-2010, 06:06 PM
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Are you referring to the exhaust collector where the up-pipes feed into the exhaust housing? If so, I found a 15mm stubby wrench is the only tool that fits in there and can turn without hitting the firewall.

Bill

1996 F250 SC/SB 4X4 XLT
1997 F250 RC/SB 2WD project
2008 F350 CC/LB 4X4 DRW Lariat, 3" cow catcher mod
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If your posting pictures bill, everyone dim their screens, that CAT YELLOW is bright
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Is there anything you DONT take apart and **** with?
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I still say that those Dodge mirrors have as much business on a OBS Ford as yoga pants have on a fat chick...my .02
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post #3 of 8 Old 08-30-2010, 06:19 PM
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Bill

1996 F250 SC/SB 4X4 XLT
1997 F250 RC/SB 2WD project
2008 F350 CC/LB 4X4 DRW Lariat, 3" cow catcher mod
2008 Ranger SC FX4
Quote:
Originally Posted by weareweird69 View Post
If your posting pictures bill, everyone dim their screens, that CAT YELLOW is bright
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fordman247365 View Post
Is there anything you DONT take apart and **** with?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JJFLASH View Post
I still say that those Dodge mirrors have as much business on a OBS Ford as yoga pants have on a fat chick...my .02
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post #4 of 8 Old 01-10-2013, 09:56 AM
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Bill how did you get at the rear turbo pedestal bolt, I got the front two off but can't see to get at the rear one or two. From your pic looks like its only one I need to get at but it's hard to tell.
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-10-2013, 10:39 AM
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I made this 15mm box end crow's foot to get at that nut:



Not elegant by any means, but made short work of that frozen nut.

~Bruce~
'95 F250 4x4 ECLB 295k - ZF5, Southbend, 4.10, van pedestal, EBPV & CCV delete, 1.0 ex housing, 3" DP, 4" exhaust, BFAF, 140v IDM, MagHytec diff cover, HD front springs, 16x8 alloys
'95 F-Superduty 4x2 CM 12' Flatbed 33k - E4OD, 5.13, Banks intercooler, van pedestal, EBPV & CCV delete, 1.0 ex housing, 3" DP, 4" exhaust, BFAF, PHP tunes, 6.0 fan, 140v IDM, TruCool, MagHytec diff/pan, Dieselsite external trans filter, Autometer gauges, 180w LED light bar
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post #6 of 8 Old 01-10-2013, 03:53 PM
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i got both of the nuts off with a regular 15mm box end wrench

95 f250 eclb 4x4 under construction
96 f250 eclb 4x4 rosewood stage 1 injectors, bully dog 6 position chip, 6637 air filter, idm mod
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post #7 of 8 Old 01-10-2013, 07:13 PM
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A 15mm craftsman wobble socket and an extension does the trick.

2000 F350 Lariat dually 6 speed 4" mbrp, 6637, Banks brake. Just rolled over 60k miles
2016 keystone cougar 333mkswe
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post #8 of 8 Old 01-11-2013, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by That Other Guy View Post
Bill how did you get at the rear turbo pedestal bolt, I got the front two off but can't see to get at the rear one or two. From your pic looks like its only one I need to get at but it's hard to tell.
There are 4 pedestal bolts. There is one that sits pretty much under the ebpv rod and the other is next to the ebpv solenoid, best way to get that one is from the drivers side


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tony

1997 F250 4.10's
D60 swap/mag-hytec rear diff. cover
ts 6 pos./Autometers
melling LPOP/T-500 HPOP
D66 w/1.0 housing and WW2
160/80 rosewoods/bellowed up-pipes
08 king ranch seats/center console
south bend clutch

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