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OBS auto-down window mod

40K views 89 replies 20 participants last post by  95Hailey7.3  
#1 ·
Adding auto-down (AKA one-touch window down) to an OBS driver’s window.
When cool little things like the “auto” driver’s window came out, the OBS was left out of the party. I became used to the auto window on my SD, and I wanted to add it to my OBS.

The system uses existing switches and wiring, and just needs a control module spliced into the harness.

Once installed, a quick tap of down on the switch will make the window lower automatically. Pressing up or down will stop the window. Holding the down switch will make the window operate manually (the original way.)

Difficulty: easy, basic wire splicing skills needed.

Parts needed:
Tape
Solder/heat shrink tubing or crimp connectors
92-94 Ford Explorer one-touch window down module and connector/harness.
They're located inside the driver’s door.(it is rumored 94-5 mustangs had these modules as well.)
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Installation:
1: remove driver’s door panel.

2: mount the module
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3: carefully cut and remove some of the tape jacket on the wire harness

4: connect the blue/black wire of the module to either of the blue/black wires
connect the black wire of the module to any of the black wires
connect the yellow wire of the module to the yellow wire
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5: cut the white/black wire in the harness
connect the white/black wire of the module to the white/black wire FROM THE SWITCH.
Connect the red wire of the module to the white/black wire TO THE MOTOR
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6: tape up the harness
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7: test operation and replace door panel
 
#5 ·
Nice little write up there Bill. Im assuming this can be done on the passenger side as well?

AND, T-Taps are your friend Bill.
It would work on the passenger side as well, if you got creative with 4 modules you could have auto up and down on both windows (or 8 modules on a crew cab.) :hehe:
I'll use a T-tap in desperation only. I've had lots of frustration diagnosing bad t-tap connections. Over time they will work loose or corrode. Ever try to solder a corroded wire that you keep stripping insulation away just to find more corrosion? :doh:
I like the T-tap idea for the auto down window, it should be good enough there. Having 30 some odd T-taps in my RKE harness isn't gonna happen though :D
Thanks for posting this Bill. The people at the junkyard are going to know me on a first name basis before too long at the rate I'm going. Any idea if the auto down module from any other rig besides the Exploder or Stang works? I was eyeballing the one in the Tortoise I got my RKE from but didn't grab it because I wasn't sure if it would work.
Look for something in the 93-95 range. In 95 a lot of the vehicles did change, and the auto down function became part of the GEM module. If you see a box like the one in the photo it should be fine. :thumb:
 
#4 ·
I like the T-tap idea for the auto down window, it should be good enough there. Having 30 some odd T-taps in my RKE harness isn't gonna happen though :D
Thanks for posting this Bill. The people at the junkyard are going to know me on a first name basis before too long at the rate I'm going. Any idea if the auto down module from any other rig besides the Exploder or Stang works? I was eyeballing the one in the Tortoise I got my RKE from but didn't grab it because I wasn't sure if it would work.
 
#9 ·
Nice write up, Might have to do this one. Too bad I had the door panels off on Sun. would have been half way there. Thanks
 
#11 ·
Good idea and how-to.

It is not at the top of my to-do list for my OBS, but I thought that one-touch up and down windows would be nice. It would also be nice to have the windows roll up when you arm the alarm.

I found this module that seems like it would do just that.

I believe that you can also get window modules as an option with certain alarm systems. I am planning on adding a remote start/alarm system to replace the factory keyless entry system.
 
#14 ·
How so?? :dunno:
 
#16 ·
If per say you wanted auto down on each window, then 1 per switch, auto up/down would need 2 per switch.
 
#20 ·
It uses a current sensor when in auto mode. When the current spikes (motor stalled at end of travel) it will disconnect.
 
#21 ·
Nice write-up Bill. This has been something I have always wanted in the OBS. After several ventures to different junkyards I had no luck locating one so I ordered one from the website that Garrett posted the link to. Only difference in this switch appears to be that the blue/black wire in yours appears to be the yellow/blue on mine. Heres some pics of the switch I just recieved from that website... whatcha think, just use my yellow/blue wire as your blue/black? Guess theres only one way to find out.:eek:hnoes:

Image
 
#29 ·
thats the wiring colors for a taurus and mustang.same module as the ones the explorers use.i got 5 of those this past weekend at the junkyard.i think you can look at alberta7.3's pics and match the colors

if you were'nt so far away i would have sold you a few of mine
 
#23 ·
Thanks for the quick response. It did in fact come with instructions, but I threw those on the work bench without looking at them:hehe: And thanks for posting that link.:thumb:
 
#25 ·
:hehe::doh:
 
#27 ·
Good call, I figured as much:thumb:
 
#28 ·
nice write up. will have to do this
 
#32 ·
Nice man, I didnt find a single one. the cars that I found that should have had them were already taken out. and the one that was still left in the car was crushed from a side impact. Good score.
 
#34 ·
comparing the connector pics I'd say the yellow/blue=blue/black. :thumb:
 
#35 ·
Excellent. thanks Bill:thumb:
 
#37 ·
Worked like a champ. Thanks again Bill and Garrett.
 
#39 ·
So when I go to pull this out of and exploder there is the box I need to hook up in each door? And for both up and down I need 8 total correct?
 
#40 ·
Yeah so I wired exactly how pictured and described still nothing, window switch is working properly tho