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Electric fuel pump conversion

115K views 54 replies 21 participants last post by  nunolambuca 
#1 ·
The following is a copy of a post I did on another forum last year.

Now that winter is here I decided to park my truck in the shop to give me something to do in the evenings. I decided there was three things on my to do list. IDM mod, DIY stage Is, and to convert from mechanical to an electrical fuel system. I know that you can buy kits to do this but part of the fun is trying to gather together all the parts you need. Luckily others have done this before so I didn't have to try and figure out what regulator and filters would work. Here is the list of parts I used and the costs.

Prefilter and base - Stanadyne 33640 (thedieselstore.com) $74.64
Secondary Filter Base - (WIX): 24770 (Fleetfilter.com) $26.00
Secondary Filter - (WIX) 33528 (Fleetfilter.com) $9.00
Fuel Pump - (ebay.com) $114
Fuel Lines - Stainless steel 3/8" under turbo (local) $100
Oil pressure switch - Holley 12-810 (amazon.com) $28.00
Fuel pressure switch - (local) $25.00
Fuel regulator - Aeromotive 13109 (ebay.com) $133
Fuel hose - Parker (international dealer) $5.00
Stainless hose clamps - (home depot) $7.00
Fuel pressure guage - (harbor freight) $5.00
Brass three way connector - (harbor freight) $4.00
Fittings misc brass - (harbor freight) $13.00
Fittings - Parker (local) $37.33
Wire - (local) $5.00
Fuel pump bracket - (wrecking yard) $5.00
Misc stuff - (local) $9.00
Total - $600

The first thing I did was remove the stock filter housing and pump. The only thing I left was the fuel lines coming into the valley from the tanks.

I went to a transmission shop and had some custom made 3/8" stainless steel fuel lines to go under the turbo. These attached to the back of the head and came together with a brass three way air connector. I bent the stock lines by hand into the right positions being careful not to kink them. I did not need to cut them to make them fit.

I fabbed a bracket out of stainless steel to mount the pressure regulator to the bracket on top of the HPOP reservoir. I reused the existing flex fuel lines coming from the front of the heads into the fuel regulator.

Front view


The wire for the fuel filter restriction was plugged into the fuel pressure sensor to light the dash light if fuel pressure drops below 20lbs.

I went to the wrecking yard and got a fuse box from an F150 so that I could add another relay and fuse to my fuse box. I added the relay in the upper left corner and the large size 30amp fuse furthest to the right. All wiring was run in existing looms where possible. I wanted this whole setup to look as factory as possible.
 

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#2 ·
For the fuel filters I fabbed a couple brackets from stainless and mounted the filters as high up as I could. They are not visible unless you get under the truck. This is only possible on an F350. My F250 doesn't have the depth under the cab in front of the front fuel tank.

I mounted the fuel pump using a bracket from a Ford car that holds the fuel filter. It was just the right size and worked perfect. It might have been easier to just use a SD pump but that would have cost me more.

The oil pressure sensor was installed in the rear oil cooler header. I used a rubber boot from a BMW at the wrecking yard. I was surprised how well it fit.

I also added a fuel safety shutoff switch from another Ford car. I spent quite some time looking in the engine compartment until I realized they were located in the trunk.

Quick drawing of the basic wiring

Finished it up last night and took it for a spin. All I can say is I've never felt anything like it before! I just wonder how long my tranny is going to last now. I have a TW chip with the street race position but it hasn't been programed for the new Stage 1s I put in. Anyhow all I can say is this is a different truck.
 

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#3 ·
Nice job :nod: Unique approach with the custom fuel lines in the valley. I did a conversion a few months back and put my crash switch in the truck gasser location in the passenger kick panel (if you take off the plastic you'll see the mounting holes.)
 
#4 ·
deffinetly different then mine but I like yours:) nice job
 
#5 ·
looks like my upcoming project. what pump did you use? i see you found it on ebay...
 
#6 · (Edited)
The pump is a no name brand from Canada. It's been reliable but does not flow enough now for my Stage I injectors with the TW street race tune at WOT. It sets a CEL and my low fuel pressure light in the dash lights. I would probably go with a SD pump if I was to do over or this one goes out.

Update: The CEL was because of low HPO I changed out my HPOP for an Adrenalin and haven't set a CEL since.
 
#7 ·
I like your layout. I am looking at attempting to do the same but a little scared. I am sure once I see it all it will come together fine. What did you do with the return line that goes to the tank? The Primary from the tank is what you ran into your 3 way Y connector correct that then goes to the rear head fuel lines? So do I need to keep any of the existing wiring that is on the factory fuel bowl?

So the flex fuel lines coming from the front of the heads that goes into the fuel regulator did you just run the passenger side fuel line to the passenger side of the fuel regulator and the drivers side to the drivers side? Is it that simple?

My worst fears are doing the rear fuel lines going to the back of the heads and the wiring. Is it safe to cut the existing steel fuel lines that connect to the banjo bolt on the rear of the fuel pump and just connect diesel fuel hose lines to them? I mean I like you layout better but would be afraid I would not get them made to the correct length.

So is the IPR valve still used or is that deleted as well when using the fuel regulator. Sorry if these seem to be dumb questions but want to slowly try and do this build myself if I can and get rid of my factory leaking fuel bowl.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Larry
 
#8 ·
I like your layout. I am looking at attempting to do the same but a little scared. I am sure once I see it all it will come together fine. What did you do with the return line that goes to the tank? The Primary from the tank is what you ran into your 3 way Y connector correct that then goes to the rear head fuel lines? So do I need to keep any of the existing wiring that is on the factory fuel bowl?
The return line connects to the outlet of the FPR. The main line from the tank goes into the three way which splits and goes to the back of the heads. The only wire I used was the fuel filter restriction light wire to indicate low fuel pressure.

So the flex fuel lines coming from the front of the heads that goes into the fuel regulator did you just run the passenger side fuel line to the passenger side of the fuel regulator and the drivers side to the drivers side? Is it that simple?
Yes, it is that simple.

My worst fears are doing the rear fuel lines going to the back of the heads and the wiring. Is it safe to cut the existing steel fuel lines that connect to the banjo bolt on the rear of the fuel pump and just connect diesel fuel hose lines to them? I mean I like you layout better but would be afraid I would not get them made to the correct length.
You could do that but I wanted bigger lines. You would still need to split the incoming line into two somehow.

So is the IPR valve still used or is that deleted as well when using the fuel regulator. Sorry if these seem to be dumb questions but want to slowly try and do this build myself if I can and get rid of my factory leaking fuel bowl.
The new FPR replaces the whole bowl and everything that connects to it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Larry
Hope this helps.
 
#9 ·
Great job, very clean install

What DIY stage 1's you got?
 
#11 ·
I had Rosewood Diesel do them for me. It wasn't much more than the DIY kit at the time and I didn't want to have any issues with them.
 
#10 ·
from the wiring harness you also need to reconnect the IPR. lots of people forget this and don't understand why their truck won't run
 
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#12 ·
Makes since, he no longer sells a DIY kit
 
#15 ·
The IPR is part of the wiring on the fuel bowl. after deleting the fuel bowl you need to remove the harness from the bowl and reinstall the harness
 
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#19 ·
I believe I tapped into the fuel heater wire by the firewall if I remember correctly.
 
#18 ·
I just disconnect the positive wire from the pump and connect a jumper battery to run the pump till all the air is out of the lines. Quick and easy.
 
#21 ·
Thanks to everyone for all the information.
I just finished my conversion and just got back from my first test drive. The first thing I noticed was the smoother idle then the quicker throttle response.
I have the regulator set at 65 psi and am getting a lot more black smoke while accelerating. Any Ideas why?
 
#25 ·
What's up guys wanted to know if I can keep the factory fuel bowl and jus add the electronic fuel pump?? Is that possible or ??? Your thought and knowledge is greatly appreciated :eek:hnoes:
you can't use the fuel bowl from an OBS it has a filter designed for low pressure, not the 65-70 an electric pump would be regulated to. you could therorctically use a fuel bowl from a super duty, but why would you do that?

Hey joedown where do I put the ipr if I
eliminate the fuel bowl ??
IPR goes on the back of the HPOP, it has nothing to do with the fuel pump.
 
#27 ·
oil pressure switch?

I'm sure this is a dumb question, but whats your oil pressure switch wired to? I'm thinking about doing this conversion to my truck as well.
 
#31 ·
the regulator is on the return side of the fuel, after the fuel goes through the heads. hence the regulated RETURN.

mots people run

tank - pre filter - pump - post filter - selector valve - heads- regulator - return - tank
 
#40 ·
Hey terryknight,

I've been studying this thread for a while now and I was wondering how in a 2 tank setup with only 1 supply pump being installed, how would it be installed before the selector valve? Wouldn't it have to be

tank - selector valve - pre filter - pump - post filter - heads - regulator - return - selector valve - tank

Thanks and sorry if this is a stupid question! I guess I just don't understand how the selector valve is plumbed into the system
 
#33 ·
w/pump/filters under the truck/my efuel dummie kit
....there's pressurized diesel in rubber hoses ready for rocks, fire, etc. running along the length of the frame.
those ford SS lines are pretty bombproof, gates diesel hoses NOT.
and it's there for days......holding pressure when engine is off.

b4 w/OE lift pump, drive through a wildfire f/evac.
now I'm worried about going up in flames with that rubber hoses & fuzzy mesh on the rail.
looking at some SS/AN-6 hose or some fire shielding.

w/efuel kit...
I do like the reverse circulation into fuel rails at front of heads w/cool fuel and out the back to the regulator.
OEM lift pump lines pass right under the hot turbo et. al. and fuel is heated up b4 getting into fuel rails.
 
#34 ·
You do realize that the fuel lines are in the same area as the wiring harness that runs things at the rear of the truck? Add to that, lots of manufacturers (including Ford) use either rubber hose or plastic tubing for fuel line (usually with more volatile gasoline too.) The pieces of fuel hose I've added have lasted years so far without issue.

Most regulators will bleed off the pressure eventually, or it will leak down back through the pump provided there isn't a check valve.

Unless you're a stuntman driving your truck through burning buildings with flames licking at your floorpan on a regular basis, the fuel system won't get hot enough to melt and ignite. Your plastic bodied fuel selector body would be the first to go.

The OE rear-to-front fuel flow was set up that way since the engine is on a slight incline with the front of the engine being higher than the rear. Best way to rid the system of air is to let gravity do the work.

You're worried about the fuel heating up as it passes under the turbo? Have you measured the line temperature to see how much heat is actually radiated by the turbo before the fuel enters the ~195*F sauna called a cylinder head?
 
#38 ·
Nice,interesting job! I am in the middle of the same project,using a over kill aeromotive a 1000 fuel pump that I already have from another project [10 an ] in & out which will be reduced to 6an. Not sure what the unregulated pressure is,seems you are running straight from the pump to back of heads & regulating pressure at front heads,is that correct.
Thanks, all input is appreciated
 
#39 · (Edited)
These rigs have fuel heaters in the fuel bowl to heat up the fuel. However if your not in freezing climates it's not even needed and I have no fuel heater on my rig.

I used an aeromotive regulator on the return side. I just ran the factory lines off the front return lines to the regulator that has dual inlets. The outlet on the regulator is on the bottom and runs to the factory return hardline.
 
#42 ·
Ok thanks for the response!

Where did you mount yours? Did you find a place on the frame rail to mount your whole setup near the selector valve? Or does it backtrack a bit towards the rear of the truck before heading to the engine?

I work offshore and do all of my project planning from the ship so I do not have the luxury of being able to slide under the truck every time I need to check something out :(
 
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