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Old 01-20-2010, 05:42 PM
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OBS Electric Fuel System Conversion Questions

I'm convertng my 95 OBS PSD to an electric system. I've got a SD 7.3 pump, the filter bases, filters, and bracket. I'm still needing a reg. return. The lines at the motor in the valley I have figured out and the plumbing and electrical for the pump and filters. I still need a few questions answered....

1) Whats the best idea to get to/loosen and remover the banjo bol on the back of the stock pump? If at all possible I don't want to mess with the turbo.

2) What happens with all the plugs in the factory harness that are connect to the fuel bowl once it no longes exists? Lts? Issues?

3) Where can I get a diagram of the selector valve fuel lines?

I'm sure there is more but I'm drawing blanks. Thanks ahead of time!
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Old 01-20-2010, 05:55 PM
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alllllllllllllllllllllllllso would like to know these
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Old 01-20-2010, 09:08 PM
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If you are not re-using the rear lines, just bust them off the fitting at the banjo bolt using a long screwdriver as a chisel. Then take out pump and banjo bolt as an assembly.

As far as the bowl harness, just keep the wires going to the IPR, the rest (water in fuel, bowl heater, and filter switch) can be cut off and taped up. No lights or problems.

Not to sure on the lines to the selector, but hose closest to the frame rail which connects to the bottom fuel line in front of the valve is supply to the engine.

Did mine a couple weeks back:
My OBS fuel system
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Old 01-20-2010, 11:35 PM
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That's is SLICK set up you did Alberta. I'm using a single 7.3 SD pump which, correct me if I'm wrong, should provide plenty pressure according to the research I've done. I don't plan on doing much more performance wise other than the complete banks system on it now and a TS chip with BTS program but I can add an additional 7.3 SD pump in series if things change. I'm also wanting to do away with the entire fuel bowl as it's been a PIA. Using a screw on pre-filter (water/fuel) and post-filter I will be ok, correct?

Did yoU access the rear fuel feed to the heads without messing with or removing your turbo? Both sides seem to be almost impossible to get to otherwise. I don't mind chiseling off the lines and then using flexible line if it comes to that or screwing with the turbo. I don't wanna create myself more work!

Any recomendations on where to purchase the reg. return (price vs. quality) or fabing one?

I've also considered replacing the frame rail lines all the way from the selector valve up. My truck had veggie fuel ran through it before I got it and from what I've discovered so far is the cause of a lot of my problems. Because of this I'm dropping both tanks and going through the complete fuel system frombone end to the other so it makes sense to do the lines as the same time. Any ideas on what to use for these new lines? Size? Material?etc. Other mods or Ford bright ideas to fix while the tanks are out and everything is torn apart front to back?

Thanks again!

Last edited by CrazyEyeCycles; 01-20-2010 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 01-21-2010, 06:54 PM
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I re-used the stock return lines and connected them to a tee, then into the regulator. Aside from a few fittings, you only need the regulator and a gauge. I bought a regulator on ebay. Summit/Jegs/ebay, all the prices seem the same.

You would want another pump in PARALLEL to double your delivery if you ever wanted that much fuel. The stock supply line on the frame rail is a wimpy 1/4" ID. I plan to upgrade mine in the summer to a 3/8" to make sure the engine will get the fuel without losing pressure.

I'm not sure as far as the rear head fittings. Diesel Power showed the install of the Dieselsite CPR with the turbo in. I no longer have a stock turbo, so my space issues would be different than yours.

I'm not sure what crap is on the sender/pickup in the tank, I've seen the engineering disasters on the 7.3 superduties. I'll be pulling my tanks in the summer, and getting rid of anything that could be a restriction or allow air to be pulled in.
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Old 01-29-2010, 10:38 PM
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At what point in converting in converting to electric fuel, injectors, etc. etc. should you do the 17* HPOP SD upgrade? Also if the SD pump is mounted above the tanks say 12-18", will think affect the pump performance, life, etc. ? Considered installing the Mr. Gasket diesel pump as a help between selector valve and pre-filter. Thanks ahead of time!
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Old 01-29-2010, 10:54 PM
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wow you should read my post as well. While takeling the electric fuel system its a good Idea to replace the turbo o-rings on the pedistal and replace the hpop if you are upgrading or if its leaking replace the o-rings. if you plan on bending your own line in the valley I recomend you take the turbo/pedistal off. The port in the heads are 1/8 NPT good luck and read my thread.

Some Updating and upgrading
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Old 01-30-2010, 12:35 AM
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Yeah I've kept up with your thread as well as read hundreds of others and articles for nearly three months. You've got a hell of a setup and it's coming right along. My question was though does the HPOP have to be upgraded when you upgrade the fuel system in order to prevent failure, damage, or just to operate properly? After Stage 1's? I see some people include it in their write ups and some not. To me this doesn't mean they don't do it and a lot of the times it seems like it's a "Well I'm here doing the fuel so might as well do the HPOP!" kind of deal. I'm new to the diesel world and have learned a lot fast but have a LOOOONG way to go. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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Old 01-30-2010, 10:50 AM
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I updated the the Adrenaline Hpop because my old one failed on me and second because I needed a pump that could be more efficant and do good when I change to stage 1 and the adrenaline with its price is well worth it. but if you are thinking about changing your hpop its a good idea to do while you're there
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