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Simple newbie questions

2K views 26 replies 4 participants last post by  SuperchargedPSD 
#1 ·
I just got a 7.3 1996 Ford F250 XLT and I was wondering a few things and reading a bunch on here. Can I only upgrade my air intake? Or do I have to upgrade my exhaust at the same time? Do I need gauges to operate it safely with an upgraded air intake and exhaust if I don't put in a chip? I've changed the fuel filter and the oil filter as well as the oil. What else should I look into first in order to make sure she is properly maintained??? All tips and advice appreciated since I haven't owned a vehicle for quite a while now! I don't know when she was last serviced but the guy who sold it to me said his mom and dad took pretty good care of it and would get it serviced at the ford dealer. Thanks in advance!
 
#4 ·
Shouldn't need gauges if you're just putting in exhaust and air intake. You don't need to do both at the same time though many guys do. Won't really see many advantages of just doing the intake and not the exhaust until you do both. Most guys will tell you to do gauges first as you will be able to tell what is going wrong with your truck instead of trying to diagnose a problem without any clue of what the engine is actually doing. Does the '96 have an OBDII port, can't remember what year they were mandated.
 
#6 ·
Any of the major part stores can pull codes for you. Just with an obdii port you can go with a monitor instead of gauges. Unless you're just not wanting to spend the money on either. If you're gonna be doing any towing, I would say at least a Pyrometer gauge.
 
#8 ·
Above is correct, intake and exhaust go hand in hand. I did my exhaust and down pipe and noticed the big difference when I did the intake as well.

Gauges are good for towing and are never a bad thing to have.

Get yourself some good tunes and you will love it.

Also you can check the ICP connector for oil, check the valve cover connections, open the fuel bowl up and check for any gunk in the bottom. Wouldn't hurt to do new O rings and clean the FPR screen if its never been done.
 
#9 ·
Great information guys. It's much appreciated. I've tried to do as much research on here and youtube before asking too many dumb questions. I think the fuel bowl is pretty clean after inspecting it and changing the fuel filter but I could disconnect the sensor in there and get to cleaning the bottom out as well but I didn't notice any major gunk or I would have already been freaking out a bit haha. I bought the O ring kit and just need to find the confidence in pulling it all apart and out. I fixed a minor fuel leak by just putting a new hose on the drain release valve that had a worn out hose which makes me feel like those O rings are wanting to come out next. But after I fixed the leak I felt like it's better to not fix something that isn't broken!

I'm still trying to find a good video on getting to the FPR screen. I don't want to lose it down my engine somewhere. When you say check the valve cover connections. Am I checking where the cover is bolted on? Or the the whole things and gasket? Just looking for leaks or what else? Also I'm not sure how to check the ICP connector.

My wishlist so far is a 6637 from RiffRaff, magnaflow or flowmaster pipes and muffler, a stainless steel HPX crossover, and some tunes from one of the site sponsors.

Could someone tell me the benefits of after market Banjo Bolts and if I would see performance improvements?

I primarily want to squeeze more MPG out of the engine. Thanks again guys! Enjoy the coming good weather!
 
#10 ·
Check the valve cover electrical connections.

Pull the ICP connector behind the AC compressor and look in the sensor connector for oil.

Removing the fuel bowl can be intimidating but after doing it once you will realize how easy it was.

Just be easy with the electrical connections since they can be brittle.

On these trucks it is better to keep up on the preventive maintenance than be stranded somewhere.
 
#11 ·
Yeah I'm all for preventive maintenance! 1996 with 200,000 miles on it but I think it was well maintained and taken care of. The truck used to pull some older ladies horse around. I'm trying to replace or fix up any weak points. Should I be looking into a transmission fluid flush and doing a coolant flush? Will test strips tell me if its time to change my coolant or just that it needs additive? Thanks again for all the help guys!
 
#12 ·
Is it automatic or standard, 2wd or 4wd? Do you have service records from the previous owner regarding transmission flushes? If you don't, or don't know if it has been flushed regularly, most guys will say not to flush it at that high of mileage, though I have seen a lot of debate on both sides regarding transmission flushes on high mileage transmissions. Pull the transmission dipstick and check fluid color and see if it smells burnt or not. Drop the pan and clean the magnet, replace filter, and top off with recommended fluid.

Coolant test strips will tell if if coolant needs to be replaced and if you need to add the additive. Stay with the green coolant and don't use the ELC red coolant.
 
#13 ·
Thanks. Glad I'm getting good feedback and multiple sources confirming those facts about the coolant on the 96. It is an automatic and 2wd. All the records were thrown out after the passing away of the owners husband. It doesn't smell burnt but the transmission is definitely high mileage! I need to get test strips that have the SCA reading or whatever it is called. I only have strips that will tell me the PH and Glycol %/freezepoint. Any where to get those cheap besides amazon?
 
#15 ·
I get Fleetguard test strips off Amazon. Don't need a huge supply of them as they will go bad. Usually the 4 pack is sufficient. They test freezepoint, nitrile and molybdate. On your truck only really testing for two of those.

Aftermarket banjo bolts seems like a waste of time to me from everything I've read. The driver side one is located on the forward side of the head, would have to loosen the alternator bracket to get to it. The passenger side is on the aft of the head. Follow the downpipe and should see it.
 
#17 ·
What area of the country are you in. If you get a lot of freezing during the winter, do they salt the roads? If so, you will want a stainless system. As far as cheap... I dunno what you consider cheap. Seen a few guys run Diamond Eye for price. I prefer mbrp. Does the truck have federal emissions or California emissions
 
#20 ·
I'll be taking pics soon! Thanks for all the help and interest. I really liked it when I saw it but fell in love when I drove it. I used to think diesel fuel was only for boats... I still do now but I used to too. ;) I'm looking at the Diamond Eyes for the price. What do you like about MBRP? I saw one bad review and got nervous.

I'm in California and bought it was bought in California in 1996. I thought it was federal emissions but now I'm wondering. It has a catalytic converter I believe. Does that mean I need to buy a system that uses the stock CAT? Cheers!
 
#21 ·
Fitment, sound and performance why I've leaned towards mbrp. I'm not sure of Cali emission requirements for the '96. If your truck came with a cat it will need one to stay legal. you could always do a cat delete pipe and muffler delete pipe. However, I don't know how that will play out with an emissions test. Maybe some of the other guys know. Think I've read a few who would put the cat/muffler back in before taking it for emission test.
 
#24 ·
From the CA DMV:

Does my vehicle qualify for a smog exemption?

Smog inspections are required unless your vehicle is:

Gasoline powered 1975 year model or older
Diesel powered 1997 year model and older or with a Gross Vehicle Weight rating (GVWR) of more than 14,000 lbs
Electric
Natural gas powered with a GVWR rating of more than 14,000 lbs.
Motorcycle

Still check with your local inspection station/smog inspector.
 
#25 · (Edited)
The stock exhaust is not really all that restrictive. A few have Dyno'd over 400hp thru a stock exhaust with upgraded down pipe. The downpipe is the restriction. I think diamond eye has a full exhaust kit that has a resonator that mimics a cat if you need it for visual inspections or a crow bar works well to punch out unwanted restriction. Get a scan tool now to help diagnose issues quickly. I use a OBDlink adapter and Torque Pro and Car Gauge Pro Apps on an Android device. I ran a chip for years without gauges but only lightly towed. I did leave it in the 80hp tune and hot rod ded often. A good Pyrometer is a good idea.
 
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