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My 1997 F-350 XLT

4K views 32 replies 5 participants last post by  BlackOBS_PSD 
#1 ·
Hello y'all. I'm new here and new to to Ford ownership. I have a few pics on my newbie post but I'll report them here when time permits. I bought a '97 F-350. I bought it in August and drove it for a few weeks. I knew the engine was going to need a rebuild but I didn't think so soon. One day it bellowed thick smoke and I then knew I had to shut the truck down for the build. So I did. After a month or so of research and reading, I knew about what parts I needed to make this a reliable hauler.

I just completed the engine build last week. I'm hoping to have the truck completed by the end of the year. I started right after Thanksgiving.

I'll try to keep this thread updated as I go.
 
#3 ·
Honestly, I really don't know nor did I really investigate in depth. I presume an injector let go. I had seen too many out of spec variables to make a definite conclusion and since I already had the notion of building this truck, I didn't bother.

The truck had a significant amount of blow by when I bought it. When the smoke started pouring out that particular day I noticed a sharp misfire. I removed and disassembled the engine. Piston #5 was missing a piece of the skirt about the size of a quarter (see photos). I mic'd the block after stripping it bare. Cylinders 5 & 7 had excessive wear, most noticeable at the top of the bore. #7 was 0.065" over and #5 was 0.110". Major wear. Those were the only two to get sleeves. Everything else was around 0.020" over. none of the rings were stuck in the lands. Everything about the engine looked on par with what an old, tired engine should look like.. So, yeah, it's still a mystery.
 

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#4 ·
...and two weeks after I stripped the engine here's where I'm at.. I was cleaning the mating surfaces in the pics after the paint had dried from the night before.
 

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#6 ·
I'm waiting on my injectors to come back from Rosewood Diesel. After that, I'll unload all the parts on the shelf into the engine.
Then I'll move on to the electric fuel setup.. Can't wait!!
 
#8 ·
Thanks bud! Here's another small update of pics..

- Six new tires
- Turbo rebuild kit
- New billet compressor wheel
- OEM Motorcraft sealant. I read it was the absolute best, so I ordered a few tubes. Last thing I want to be doing is removing the engine again bc of a leaking oil pan.
- Autometer Z-series gauges (EGT, boost, HPOP, fuel pressure) and A-pillar pod
 

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#14 ·
I'm excited for this build! The body looks great, I love black duallys. What injectors did you get?
 
#16 ·
Haven't messed with the truck much within 2 weeks. Work has me tied up but that's cool. More work = I can recoup my money faster from this build. I'm hoping next weekend (not tomorrow) I can get the engine back in the truck. Whoo-hoo.

I'm still on the fence about whether I should go with hard SS fuel lines or braided hose for fuel supply to the rear of the heads.
 
#17 ·
I am getting ready to do my e-fuel as well. I'm doing the whole system from the selector valve forward with a stainless braided 6 AN PTFE line.
 
#19 ·
Good deal. That's what I'm doing too. How do you plan on splitting and delivering fuel to the heads? That's what I'm on the fence about. I think braided hose and heat shielding would work just fine but then again I'm not sure.
 
#21 ·
I will use a 3 way air splitter. 1 in, 2 out, with room for a pressure sender in the future. and i will use some 3/4" shielding for going to the back of the heads under the turbo. This post helped me figure out what fittings to use to the heads and what degree angle they need to be. Custom E-Fuel 7.3 Conversion - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
 
#22 ·
Thanks bud! I greatly appreciate it. I like that he isn't concerned about cutting cost but instead building a mechanically sound setup... Exactly what I want. I don't like always having to dick around with something because of being cheap.
 
#23 ·
I was going to go the cheap route, but I started this project a year ago, and have been able to plan it out much more in that time. This looks like a good setup from what i can tell. I have my cart ready to go on the summit website for all the parts i need to finish. I already have the FPR, and the filters ready to go.
 
#24 ·
I'll make sure to post up parts and pictures when I do it. I'm looking to do it before March, because ATS diesel is having a little dyno day and I wanna see what I can run.
 
#27 ·
Well, reality hit me again, and I cannot afford that set of parts, so I'll probably go the cheap route again.

-4AN fittings seem fine to me, the stock lines in the valley and to the heads are 1/4" I believe, which is equivalent, so why not.

Basically, all the ports on the heads are 1/8"NPT fittings, you'll need 1 straight fitting, 2 90* fittings, and 1 45*, so adapt that to your -4AN size, and you should be good. These parts were expensive for me, and I was going to run -6AN. You'll need to go 1/8"NPT to -4AN fitting then go -4AN to your hose size. Then just make whatever connections you need to.

Since my plans have changed, im going to leave the banjo fitting alone along with the lines to the rear of the heads. The banjo bolt is just a -12AN, so ill get a reducer to go from that to like 1/2NPT and adapt that to a simple hose barb to go from my fuel pump setup. Should be pretty cheap.
 
#28 ·
Gotcha. Thanks. I placed my order and will post pics once I get it all together. I had noticed that on a lot of the E-fuel threads out there people were using -6AN feeds. This made no sense to me as the ID of 1/8 NPT is around 0.25".

If all goes well, I'll install the engine over the weekend. Then, I'll begin the rewiring and part installs, etc, etc. I'm nearing the half way point of this project!

Rear diff rebuild coming soon!
 
#29 ·
Update!!

It's been a while since I've posted but I've been swamped with stuff to do but nonetheless I have pics!
I ended up going the braided hose and fitting route. The hoses in the high temp areas are wrapped with DEI heat shielding to keep the temperatures at bay. I finally had the opportunity to get the engine in the bay about a month ago. Whooohoo!
 

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#30 ·
I wrapped the down pipe with the usual fiberglass heatwrap. I'd like to minimize the underhood temp as much as possible. The fuel lines to the frame rail lines were also wrapped with DEI shielding. I utilized the OEM fuel lines on the frame. After doing some measuring and number crunching I realized the 5/16" SS feed line is more than adequate in size for my application.
 

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#31 ·
After getting the engine in the bay and measurements done I started on the pump and filters. After a few sketches and some planning I finally came up with an idea I liked. Here's what I came up with...

It's very simple and works great. I opted to TIG weld the assembly. I would of stick welded this angle iron but instead I fired up the TIG welder. The welding took about 30 minutes to complete. ANy of you guys that TIG know why. However, the welds are strong and look good. I'll built a simple cradle type of holder. I know it wont completely protect the filter but other guys mount the filters bare without any incidents. I like to take a little preemptive action. **** always happens to me..:crying:
I didn't use a nylon braid hose underneath as it gets nasty over time. I can't remember the name but it's still Russell hose.
 

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#32 ·
I bought another fusebox from the junkyard. I like keeping my vehicles as clean looking as possible so this truck is no different. I had an empty relay and fuse slot in my fusebox so thats where the new stuff was going.
 

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#33 ·
After this I installed my gauges and whatnot. My original plan was to reuse the factory clutch and trans during the engine break-in period. That apparently wasn't the best idea.. My stock setting will slip the clutch at around 2,500 RPM. This sucks. I thought I could buy a little time so I could let my wallet recoup. Nope... So I'll order my ZF rebuild kit and clutch next week. I might as well go ahead and look for a differential rebuild kit as well. Money, mmoney, money..
 
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