Help with traction bars - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 11-30-2008, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
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Help with traction bars

I want to build a set of traction bars for my 1995 extended cab f-250. Will you all that have them post pics of your set ups. Thanks

1995 Ford F-250 5 speed 4x4, MBRP 4 inch turbo back exhaust with 8" Stack, K & N intake, Tony Wildman 6 postion, Rosewood Diesel Stage 2Injectors, KMC Rockstars wrapped in Nitto Terra Grapplers, Auto Meter C2 boos, pyro, and oil pressure guages. Soon to come Dana 60 conversion, adrinilane hpop, and air dog 2
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post #2 of 12 Old 11-30-2008, 04:29 PM
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home made traction bars

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post #3 of 12 Old 11-30-2008, 04:36 PM
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Nice Bars Stump!

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Sold the truck to help pay $1.5M in medical bills! Now I have a F150 6cyl that is slower and gets worse mileage
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post #4 of 12 Old 11-30-2008, 04:40 PM
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thanks bud

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post #5 of 12 Old 11-30-2008, 04:46 PM
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I just sent the link to a buddy, I think we are going to attempt to build a couple sets ourselves! We will be using the STUMP blueprint!

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Originally Posted by cchase View Post
Do you know what the hardest part of driving a dodge is? Telling your parents that your gay.
Sold the truck to help pay $1.5M in medical bills! Now I have a F150 6cyl that is slower and gets worse mileage
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post #6 of 12 Old 11-30-2008, 04:48 PM
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cost ya 2 cases of natty good luck

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post #7 of 12 Old 11-30-2008, 04:52 PM
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No Problem. Next Time I see ya you remind me.... I'll hook ya up!

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Originally Posted by cchase View Post
Do you know what the hardest part of driving a dodge is? Telling your parents that your gay.
Sold the truck to help pay $1.5M in medical bills! Now I have a F150 6cyl that is slower and gets worse mileage
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post #8 of 12 Old 11-30-2008, 05:02 PM
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gotcha!!!!!!

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post #9 of 12 Old 11-30-2008, 05:15 PM
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stump - ya got a nice setup, but theres a couple things i noticed that may be an issue down the road, may not depending on how you drive. I ran into similar problems building my suspenion on my 150 from the ground up.

1. be careful welding a flange to the axle housing that receives torque in any way. why? once that axle starts to wrap (even as you're trying to counter act it with the bars) it'll put a stress on that weld, and eventually peel the housing open, causing an oil leak. then go ahead and try to weld it shut with oil seeping out. if you use an anti-wrap bracket (http://www.diy4x.com/images/antiwrap%20bracket.JPG) make sure it's welded around the entire plate, and the radius of the bracket gets as close to 1/2 the diameter as possible. mine peeled open for that very reason. or lack there of.

2. heim joints. stay away from them. they're inexpensive compared to a super pivot(Super Pivot Bar End | suicidedoors.com) but you can re-build, service and grease the super pivot. the super pivot won't loosen up like the heims will over time. this isn't so bad with traction bars, you'll notice it more with a 4 link system.

3. Grade 8's. use them everywhere. you'll pay a little more up front, but you'll be thankfull when you don't have to crawl under the truck on the highway at 3am replacing broken suspension nuts and bolts ( that always seem to wander into the tall grass median where you can't find them)

check www.suicidedoors.com for parts, they're pretty good. most of it is for lowered trucks, but some of the parts do an excellent job (super pivots, weld on studs, gussets, etc.) also check out DIY4X: Catering to those who enjoy doing it themselves.

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Last edited by Hawker; 11-30-2008 at 05:24 PM.
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post #10 of 12 Old 11-30-2008, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawker View Post
stump - ya got a nice setup, but theres a couple things i noticed that may be an issue down the road, may not depending on how you drive. I ran into similar problems building my suspenion on my 150 from the ground up.

1. try and stay away from welding a flange to the axle housing that receives torque in any way. why? once that axle starts to wrap (even as you're trying to counter act it with the bars) it'll put a stress on that weld, and eventually peel the housing open, causing an oil leak. then go ahead and try to weld it shut with oil seeping out.

2. heim joints. stay away from them. they're inexpensive compared to a super pivot(Super Pivot Bar End | suicidedoors.com) but you can re-build, service and grease the super pivot. the super pivot won't loosen up like the heims will over time. this isn't so bad with traction bars, you'll notice it more with a 4 link system.

3. Grade 8's. use them everywhere. you'll pay a little more up front, but you'll be thankfull when you don't have to crawl under the truck on the highway at 3am replacing broken suspension nuts and bolts ( that always seem to wander into the tall grass median where you can't find them)

check suicidedoors.com | This ain't no damn corporation.... for parts, they're pretty good. most of it is for lowered trucks, but some of the parts do an excellent job (super pivots, weld on studs, gussets, etc.) also check out DIY4X: Catering to those who enjoy doing it themselves.
thanks for the input,
i designed the just going off of this || Farmboy Fabrications - The Suspension Specialists || (the misc. area)

from farmboys fabrication

the points you raise are valid, but the only one that conserns me (in my case) is the welding on the rear end. i used grade 8 bolts, and the heim joints i used are solid

i think for my driving style my simple setup is good, i only drive on the road and occasionaly drag race no offroading or extrreme use

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