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| 94-98 7.3L Exterior Discussion Body and Accessories Talk |
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What options do I have for a 1996 f250 with a 7.3 liftkit wise.
Id like a whole system but a kit would be fine. Id probably like a 4 or 6 inch lift but im on a tight budeget. Any help would be great
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I like Skyjacker lifts. The lifts for your truck aren't cheap. About $1,000 for the 4", and $1,600 for a 6". You don't need a lot of lift on these trucks. Mine has 2 1/2" and could probably fit 35"-36" tires if it wasn't a dually. The 250 sits just a little lower though. I used to have a '88 F-250 with 6" lift and 3" body lift that cleared 44's. If you are on a tight budget, go with a 3" body lift first. If you get a suspension lift, get the best one you can afford. I preffer kits with new rear springs because the stock setup already has blocks. With taller blocks, axle wrap is a problem.
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im looking into this also i want a 4" lift i dont want to go to high and have to do all the extra junk like lengthen drive shafts. with TTB i've only ran rough country and skyjacker.. mind you these were front coil set ups for bronco's. the rough country coils sucked the brackets weren't that strong. i did like there rear springs though. the skyjacker kits are beepbeepbeepbeep nice coils are pretty soft. brackets were way more beef then the rough counrty, and the the rear springs (for fullsize) were nice. im thinking skyjacker myself. hope this helps you. never ran a rancho lift but from what i have researched for bronco's the rancho stuff broke alot especially there extended radius arms. the best kit out there is probably BDS if they make one for our yr PSD's.
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i put in a skyjacker 6" in my truck and i am pretty happy with it. it rides real nice and i have plenty of room for my 35s. check my garage if you want a look. i would avoid the body lift if you use your truck like i do, they are cheap but a suspension lift is a lot better.
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hey Sam how many spring's in the front pack? did springs come with rubber or polly bushing's on the end's? any drive shaft work with 6"?
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body lifts are not very popular with 4 wheelers. it realy is up to what you plan on doing with your rig. if you wheel and do any type of off camber stuff a body lift can create a high center of gravity and make it easier to roll over . same can be said with a lift but the benefit of a lift is the added suspension travel. the body lift is pretty much only good for fitting bigger tires, and if your doing some custom work to you drive train can be helpful with clearance issues. i wouldn't run one becuz it leaves a big gap between body and frame that IMO looks ugly. i know guys that i wheel with that use them but in moderation for clearing thing's like doublers, trannys, etc. like i mentioned it's realy up to what you are doing with your rig if you just want to make more room for tires then it is a cheap way to go but thats about all it would be good for.
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I'm planning on having some 3" lift soft riding Deaver springs made for the front of my truck when i swap in my Dana 60
then i'll just block up the rear springs, buy a drop pitman, get some longer NAPA shocks, & run traction links from the rear end to the frame since i need em' anyway (Bad wheel hop even stock) Plus that way it doesn't affect my factory overloads &/or carrying capacity at all But then again i've lifted many rigs and have never bought a kit since the kits they sell are rarely exactly what i want from a lift. |
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gonecheenin what are you doing for steering when you d60 swap? just currious if your going knuckle over or you gonna use the stock stuff?
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Planning on using stock F-350 steering
Only because my truck is just a street queen, so i don't see a reason for fabbing anything (on my offroader I'm doing high steer with full hydraulic actuation though) The reason I'm putting a 60 in my truck is because this TTB rides & drives like crap, plus its worn out & i can't see spending any cash rebuilding it instead of just putting in a good ole' solid axle Plus the solid axle is way easier to lift & more reliable once its up there
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