DIY bodywork guide - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
94-98 7.3L Exterior Discussion Body and Accessories Talk

 
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post #1 of 6 Old 06-30-2008, 05:32 AM Thread Starter
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DIY bodywork guide

Anyone on here know of a good diy bodywork guide? I have some rust spots i wanna fix.

1995 F250 7.3 turbo
3 inch dp into 4 inch exhaust
tymar intake, Isspro boost, pyro, tranny temp gauges
tow and go shift kit, DIY electric fuel pump system with fuel pressure gauge,bronco tank mod
kcm ss hpx line, stancor gpr, 203 thermostat, 03 starter
TWchip 6 postion daily,econo,tow,street,xtreme,highidle
Banks intercooler and pipe kit,Idm Mod,CCV Mod
Plant drive wvo kit(hotfox,vegmax filters,26fphe, vegthermmega and gauges for cooliant and wvo temp)
Dana 60 front axle swap
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post #2 of 6 Old 06-30-2008, 05:40 AM
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its just a lil cuttin and weldin (not fun)

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post #3 of 6 Old 06-30-2008, 03:38 PM Thread Starter
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I just have surface rust bubbles. i'm sure that if i sand the rust away and fill it with bondo it will be fine. i wanted to know more about the bondo, primer, paint part of the job.

1995 F250 7.3 turbo
3 inch dp into 4 inch exhaust
tymar intake, Isspro boost, pyro, tranny temp gauges
tow and go shift kit, DIY electric fuel pump system with fuel pressure gauge,bronco tank mod
kcm ss hpx line, stancor gpr, 203 thermostat, 03 starter
TWchip 6 postion daily,econo,tow,street,xtreme,highidle
Banks intercooler and pipe kit,Idm Mod,CCV Mod
Plant drive wvo kit(hotfox,vegmax filters,26fphe, vegthermmega and gauges for cooliant and wvo temp)
Dana 60 front axle swap
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post #4 of 6 Old 06-30-2008, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7.3TurboDiesel View Post
I just have surface rust bubbles. i'm sure that if i sand the rust away and fill it with bondo it will be fine. i wanted to know more about the bondo, primer, paint part of the job.
Bondo holds water, there for it will cause more rust. Primer will not stop rust as it does not seal it just covers the metal.

What you want to do is grind down the rust not sand it. This will remove all metal that has already started to oxidize. Now you most likely will not need bondo unless your filling in a dent. After you grind off the rust and get to good metal again. Just use sand paper and smooth out the metal again. Then cover with 3 coats primer, wet sand, then using a primer/sealer, then spary the color, finishing up with clear coat.

The only time you need to use bondo is when your filling in small dents. Your bondo should never be more then a 1/16th inch thick. If your bondo is thicker then that you did not pull the dent out enough.

I suggest you look at community colleges, or if your in highschool. See about autoclass. I know when I was in highschool, I took autobody repair. I fixed all the dents and rust on my 86 t-bird for the cost of materials. Alot of vo-tech schools have summer classes. If you talk to the teacher they may let you take the class and fix your rust at cost of material. This will allow you to get some education and get to use professional tools and equipment for the cost of taking the class. Which will be alot less then having a body shop repair the rust.


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post #5 of 6 Old 06-30-2008, 04:41 PM
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I think it is either: HP Books, S.A. Designs(or is it S.A. Books?), and there is one more too. I think it was something like Cartech Books or something. Can't really remember. They had a book that might help you some on this, it was about bodywork.
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post #6 of 6 Old 06-30-2008, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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thanx alot u gave me the info i needed to get the job done

1995 F250 7.3 turbo
3 inch dp into 4 inch exhaust
tymar intake, Isspro boost, pyro, tranny temp gauges
tow and go shift kit, DIY electric fuel pump system with fuel pressure gauge,bronco tank mod
kcm ss hpx line, stancor gpr, 203 thermostat, 03 starter
TWchip 6 postion daily,econo,tow,street,xtreme,highidle
Banks intercooler and pipe kit,Idm Mod,CCV Mod
Plant drive wvo kit(hotfox,vegmax filters,26fphe, vegthermmega and gauges for cooliant and wvo temp)
Dana 60 front axle swap
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