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post #1 of 8 Old 04-01-2013, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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brush guard

I just picked up a brush guard last weekend for my truck. I dont know who makes it and I have never put a brush guard on a truck. Wondering if someone on here has a similar brush guard could tell me how to mount it on the truck or show me some pictures. I have two L shaped brackets that I really dont know where they go. Here is a picture of the guard.
brush guard-3e13ga3h25g55k95hdd3nbd74190d54eb1539.jpg


1997 F250 7.3L XLT Auto 4x4 std. cab
190k
Hypertech maxenergy stage 1
dyi tymar intake
S.S downpipe to 5" stacks
glow shift gauges
pro comp xtreme alloy rims
Nitto Terra Grapplers 285/75/16
fpr mod
kcm s.s. hpx line
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post #2 of 8 Old 04-01-2013, 04:25 PM
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If the L shape brackets are what I'm thinking the go between the bumper and frame...right below the grill....I can take a pic of mine but its on an 04
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post #3 of 8 Old 04-01-2013, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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if you have some extra time to get a few pics and throw them on here it would be appreciated. at least it would give me a rough idea. I was thinkin it mounted on the frame.


1997 F250 7.3L XLT Auto 4x4 std. cab
190k
Hypertech maxenergy stage 1
dyi tymar intake
S.S downpipe to 5" stacks
glow shift gauges
pro comp xtreme alloy rims
Nitto Terra Grapplers 285/75/16
fpr mod
kcm s.s. hpx line
fordF250 is offline  
post #4 of 8 Old 04-01-2013, 04:58 PM
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I can't tell by that picture what the mounts look like. But here is how the one I just sold installs. If these instructions make sense then you may have the same basic guard. There are two L brackets that bolt under the existing bumper nuts. The up and down ends of the brackets should make sense when you look at how the guard attaches to these brackets. Loosen the two nuts on one frame end of the bumper, remove the two nuts at the other frame end of the bumper and pivot the bumper away from the truck pulling the two captivated bolts with it. You will want a friend helping you with this. If you have a sway bar the angle piece must go to the outside so you may have to determine which bracket is left side and which is right. Loosely replace the two nuts and do the same for the other bracket. You may have to trim a hard rubber piece a little, this will make sense when you put on the brackets. Get the bumper nuts almost snug, heave your guard in place, stab the bolts and snug them. Get a floor jack or similar and tweak everything where you want it and tightened all the hardware.

The stock bumper is surprisingly light.

Denton, TX

I envy those that know exactly which modification to make and in the most logical of sequences. But not enough to trade for my meanderings and misfires.

1996 F250 crew cab/short bed, 4x4, auto PSD, 6637 air filter, interior grab handles, stainless window vents, remote door locks work with engine running mod.
Link to my D60 refurb and OBS swap thread
Link to my OBS air vent R&R thread
Link to my grab handle install
Link to my tire size comparison pics

Last edited by leojr; 04-01-2013 at 04:59 PM. Reason: spelun
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post #5 of 8 Old 04-04-2013, 11:37 AM
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crawl under the front of your truck and look up you will see a rubber guard push it out of your way and you will see two bolts on each side holding the bumper. 1st soak them down with pb, then losen all 4 but only remove 1 side at a time ( get em loose enough to move the bumper around) place 1 l braket on each side long leg goes under the bumper to the front and get everything hand tight ( make sure you can move it around a bit still) install the guard to the brakets I tightened those bolts all the way and move it around where you need it if you can ( I have never seen one that looked perfect) then tighten everything up and your done. I just did this last weekend for the first time and it took me all of 30 mins.

1996 F-250 crew cab 5 speed
diy intake 4in dp back exhaust
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post #6 of 8 Old 04-06-2013, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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here is a picture of the brackets and the bottom part of the brush guard, I know it came off a 95 f150 but im thinking its not going to work. Hopefully it will
brackets
brush guard-0406131012-00.jpg
brush guard
brush guard-0406131012-01.jpg


1997 F250 7.3L XLT Auto 4x4 std. cab
190k
Hypertech maxenergy stage 1
dyi tymar intake
S.S downpipe to 5" stacks
glow shift gauges
pro comp xtreme alloy rims
Nitto Terra Grapplers 285/75/16
fpr mod
kcm s.s. hpx line
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post #7 of 8 Old 04-06-2013, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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well thanks for all the ideas. I had a buddy come over and we threw some ideas together drank a few beer and did a little fab work and it went on slick. I get some time I will throw some pics up.


1997 F250 7.3L XLT Auto 4x4 std. cab
190k
Hypertech maxenergy stage 1
dyi tymar intake
S.S downpipe to 5" stacks
glow shift gauges
pro comp xtreme alloy rims
Nitto Terra Grapplers 285/75/16
fpr mod
kcm s.s. hpx line
fordF250 is offline  
post #8 of 8 Old 04-07-2013, 04:19 AM
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I don't know if the fitment to a 150 frame is different that then 250/350. But it looks like arms attached to your grill mate and bolt flat to the inside surfaces of both frame surfaces and the angle pieces wrap up and over the frame and bolts to the other surface.

Denton, TX

I envy those that know exactly which modification to make and in the most logical of sequences. But not enough to trade for my meanderings and misfires.

1996 F250 crew cab/short bed, 4x4, auto PSD, 6637 air filter, interior grab handles, stainless window vents, remote door locks work with engine running mod.
Link to my D60 refurb and OBS swap thread
Link to my OBS air vent R&R thread
Link to my grab handle install
Link to my tire size comparison pics
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