rear disc brake conversion - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
94-98 7.3L Exterior Discussion Body and Accessories Talk

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post #1 of 13 Old 12-24-2007, 01:37 PM Thread Starter
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rear disc brake conversion

anyone out there done a rear disc brake conversion on their sterling 10.25's. a friend was looking for his gm 14 bolt and found a site that also had a kit for the sterling rear end, but he doesnt rememberthe name. btw merry christmas.

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1996 F250 SC/LB, 4x4 PSD, ATS stage 1 trans 5 star tcc, AC codes,TW tunes, magnaflow 4" exhaust, 6637 , FS 2500 bypass oil filter,pure power reusable oil filter, isspro gauges, dieselsite cpr fuel pump system, adrenaline hpop, pml rear diff cover ,ebpv delete,non epbv pedestal, king pin dana 60, swamps idm, tru cool 4739
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post #2 of 13 Old 12-24-2007, 01:46 PM
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I haven't, but Im sure someone on here has, to give you the info your looking for

2002 F-250 4x4 EC, SRW, SB
Auto 93,000 miles
DP Tuner F5
ATS Compressor and 1.0 Exhaust housing high flow back plate
Turbo Back 4" Silverline Exhaust Mbrp Muffler Delete
Isspro Trans,Pyro,Boost Triple Pod
Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
AIH Delete With Boost Fitting


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post #3 of 13 Old 12-24-2007, 02:16 PM
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I am at work right now but I have seen a kit. I believe I have it marked in my favorites, if so I will post the link for you.
Craig

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And never forget who did it

Religion of peace my жопа


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Ah, we can lead a man to knowledge.....but we can't make him think.
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post #4 of 13 Old 12-24-2007, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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thank you craig

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1996 F250 SC/LB, 4x4 PSD, ATS stage 1 trans 5 star tcc, AC codes,TW tunes, magnaflow 4" exhaust, 6637 , FS 2500 bypass oil filter,pure power reusable oil filter, isspro gauges, dieselsite cpr fuel pump system, adrenaline hpop, pml rear diff cover ,ebpv delete,non epbv pedestal, king pin dana 60, swamps idm, tru cool 4739
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post #5 of 13 Old 12-24-2007, 02:52 PM
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Look at the TSM kit or the Blackbirdcustom kit. I have the Blackbird kit but I have not installed it yet.
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post #6 of 13 Old 12-24-2007, 05:30 PM
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Hey Sgt. Dave,
I believe this is what you are looking for:
'85-'98 Ford Sterling

Merry Christmas,

Craig

Remember Ft. Hood

And never forget who did it

Religion of peace my жопа


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post #7 of 13 Old 12-24-2007, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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hey RC51 are you going to post a write up on your installation? i am curios as to how it works for you. it looks to be like a good kit at a decent price.

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1996 F250 SC/LB, 4x4 PSD, ATS stage 1 trans 5 star tcc, AC codes,TW tunes, magnaflow 4" exhaust, 6637 , FS 2500 bypass oil filter,pure power reusable oil filter, isspro gauges, dieselsite cpr fuel pump system, adrenaline hpop, pml rear diff cover ,ebpv delete,non epbv pedestal, king pin dana 60, swamps idm, tru cool 4739
USMC 1993-1998
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post #8 of 13 Old 12-24-2007, 05:54 PM
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Yes I will take pics and all. The kits are about the same price. I just liked the ease of the Blackbird backing plate. Plus I already had the caddy calipers with the E-Brake.
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post #9 of 13 Old 12-25-2007, 02:50 AM
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Are y'all talking about this write up?

This installation uses Cadillac Calipers from a 1976 Eldorado. There are people working on conversions sticking with Ford parts and when they get done I will be happy to link that here.

I don't think this will work with 15" rims. I know it will fit 16" and bigger.

We will start with the parts you need to get.
I will list part numbers, and prices I found, not always the cheapest.

1) Two rotors for a 1996 E-350 460 CI/7.5L single rear wheel van. It will have a standard bolt pattern, and will slip over the hub. Napa part number #86799 priced at $79.99, total around $160

2) 2 Calipers right #16-4117 and left #16-4116 rear. 1976 to 1978 Cadillac Eldorado 500 CI V8. Price went up since I looked last $75 + $15 core, each. Total around $180 Oreilly's had the cheapest core charge.

3) Brake pads cheapest set $17

4) 2 Caliper bolt/pin kits O'reilly's #F76074S $21 total

5) Connections for the calipers, I got calipers out of the junk yard $50, and rebuilt them for $20. They came with a brass 90 degree fitting, for the connection I was able to use Steel brake line cost me $7. You will need rubber hoses, or fitting to do the same, What exactly you need, you will have to determine for your situation.

6) 6 - 1.5"x1/2" long bolts, you can reuse the lock nuts from the backing plates.

7) Brackets, here we go.
I have a paper template of the one I made, If you would like to build your own I will be happy to send you 3 files, you will have to print them, tape two of them together and verify that they printed at the correct scale, if you don't and just cut, they probably won't fit. Reach me at edeiber@gmail.com

You can download them yourself .HERE
There are 3 files about 1 meg each. You need all three. I say again, check the measurements after printing.
Microsoft Imaging will should display the file properly.

There will be plenty of copies floating around so do not try to make one from the pic below.
There are other people working on a CNC program, or other means of making the pattern available. I will post the info when it's done.

If you would like a set of plates already made, and pretty close to bolt on, (mine bolted on, but haven't done a second set yet) I have a source, or you can deal with him directly, right now it looks like cost will run $85 a pair. If you want a set, email me and I will give you the contact info. edeiber@gmail.com

As cheaper sets are available I will post the info here, or if you are building them let me know and I will add you to the source list.

With the main bracket there is a 3rd page that has the pattern for a Shim to give the proper spacing for the backing plate, if you don't want to make the shim, you can use washers.

The E-Brake clip is also on the second page, those dimensions are not fixed, any size piece laying around will do, depends on how you want it to look.

A) To make the brackets, You will need to pieces of 3/8" plate, 10"x9.5" You can use 5/16", but it will allow more flex, and will not hold as many threads on the Caliper mounting pin.
B) Print and re-check the measurements on your template.
c) Cut it out, and tape it to one of the plates.
D) Center punch the 5 holes on the + in the center of the hole.
E) Trace around the outside of the Paper template
F) Cut out your bracket, you will need a Plasma cutter, or a torch for 3/8" plate. Clean the cut as much as you want, but recheck it, must be pretty close to the template for this to bolt on.
G) Drill the 2 caliper pin holes to 25/64" Be careful to get them straight, If they are off the other end of the pin will not line up with the caliper.
H) Tap these two holes 7/16" X 20 Threads Per inch. or NF
I) Drill the 3 Flange mounting bolts. If there is a chance you might be off a Tad drill them to 9/16" or even 5/8" That will allow you to adjust it more later.
J) Weld the E-Brake clip on the back of the plate. Shown below as "This Dimension" the distance you pick for the first one can be off, but the second plate must be the same as the first or the E-brake will not hold both sides evenly.
That Dimension should be about 8.5" from the center of the lower caliper pin hole to the Closest side of the E-Brake clip. If the cable seems lose, or tight. I will show you how to adjust that later.
Weld the clip on at a 45 degree angle, I did not show this in the drawing. The reason for the angle, well look at you E-Brake cable it has a grommet on it, that grommet is molded at 45 degrees, by putting the clip on at that angle it will allow the grommet to sit flush against the clip.
Hold the 8.5" at the weld, and it will lean back towards the rear of the truck, or pointed towards the axle.

Making the Shim, and E-brake clip.

I mentioned earlier you do not need a shim, you can use washers or some other means. Just remember the axle flange we are bolting to is welded on the side we are bolting , so the washers will have to be trimmed to lay flat.

We also need right at 1/4" of spacing. If the spacing gets off too far either direction the caliper will not slide properly and will wear out one pad before the other.

You will need 2- 6"x5.5"x1/4" thick plates.

Follow the same steps for cutting the shims.
Print a template, cut it out, center punch the holes, and cut away. Use the same size drill bit you used on the bracket.

After you get them cut out, laying them on the caliper bracket, you will see the radius of the arch is larger on the shim. That is because the weld on the back of the flange. I didn't use the same radius for the caliper bracket, because I wanted as much meat around the bolt holes as I could get.

Make sure the bolt holes line up on the shim, and caliper bracket.

The E-brake clip
You can use any size material. Shoudl be not more than 1/4" thick. It needs a 5/8" hole drilled in the center.
Now to accept the cable properly you need to egg shape the hole with the drill bit.
With the clip in the vise, or other clamping means, drill the hole, after the hole is drilled work the bit to at least a 45 degree angle.
It will fit tight, but the E-brake cable should fit, and the grommet should mount tight against the clip.



Craig

Remember Ft. Hood

And never forget who did it

Religion of peace my жопа


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Ah, we can lead a man to knowledge.....but we can't make him think.
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post #10 of 13 Old 12-25-2007, 10:53 AM
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Thanks Craig thats a great write up to have.

Bill C.
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