Power inverter install

[Aaron Berk]

Ok, so I put 3 batteries, and a 5000w 10k max power inverter into my bed box. I don't want to spring the cash for all the parts and wires necessary to run an isolator. I'd like to just tap into the factory tow package trailer wiring and use the charge wire out of there. I haven't started researching that yet, this is my first info quest.

So does any one have experience or helpful info on this?

Semper FI
Aaron

[tsteel]

You should be able to do this as if you where charging a set of bats on a travel trailer.

[Aaron Berk]

Right, but I'm wondering where to start looking for the wire that I need. I don't have a schematic for my truck. I was hoping that someone knew off the top of their head where to start looking.

[alberta 7.3]

Under the hood by the power distribution box, you will see 2 round 4-pin connectors in the harness going to the frame. I believe the orange wire is the trailer charging circuit.

[Aaron Berk]

I'll be under the hood later today to check. I've got a honey do list today that includes assembling an Anderson sliding door and installing it. We'll see how things go. I really need to get my charge wire hooked up. While playing around when I was installing my batts and inverter I was running my table saw, shop vac, and fan all at once on the Wagan 5000w so I think they might be a little low.

[monoloco]

The trailer charge wire is pretty small gauge so to charge my camper batteries I installed a heavy duty solenoid with an 8 gauge wire and a 30amp fuse directly from the truck battery. The solenoid allows the camper battery to charge only when the truck is running.

[zROCK]

I would just spring for the cash for the isolator then go to your local welding shop or car audio shop and buy some good quality cable. Good quality car audio cable is only a few $ per foot. Its well worth the money. Whenever i change battery cables i always make my own with that cable and never have to worry about it again. then its done and done properly

[Aaron Berk]

Originally Posted by zROCK

I would just spring for the cash for the isolator then go to your local welding shop or car audio shop and buy some good quality cable. Good quality car audio cable is only a few $ per foot. Its well worth the money. Whenever i change battery cables i always make my own with that cable and never have to worry about it again. then its done and done properly

I used 1/0 welding cable purchased from a boating store for all my cabling in my battery bank, really good stuff.

I'll probably just use 10 awg wire for the charging line since trickle charging is all I need it for.

[Robsr]

I used #2 cables. the power cable comes from the relay box to a 100a quick blow fuse, then to a constant duty solenoid which is powered from key on power and is also fused, from the sol to the battery, batteries grounded to the frame, inverter has a heavy duty switch between it and B+ so it can be isolated when not in use. I was going to use a fancy charger/isolator set up but decided to go the way I went. been using this setup for four years without issue.

I used to for two days to power my fridge and stuff during a power outage but soon realized a 700 dollar 5k genset was cheaper than a 40k truck, LOL!!!!

I'd like to hear more info on your inverter, and a pic too!

[Aaron Berk]

Ok I have a few pics up of the power inverter, I could only get the pics working if I linked to them, so if you still wanted to see my bed box installation here it is. http://wasteveggieoilexplorations.shutterfly.com/

I linked into my trailer wiring circuit to charge the batts, but I don't like the way it turned out. I'll be upgrading to a full blown isolator and related wiring in the near future.