95 zf5 speed dipstick leaked and tranny won't go into gear - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 06-04-2014, 05:03 PM Thread Starter
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95 zf5 speed dipstick leaked and tranny won't go into gear

Hi hopefully someone can help I have a 95 f350 cclb 4x4 with the five speed. I put in a south bend dual disc clutch and few months ago when I was driving I went to downshift and couldn't get it back into gear. I ended up being close to home so I pulled it home. After inspecting it I discovered the nut on the oil pan holding the dipstick into the pan is stripped and leaking oil. On further inspection I discovered the oil was in the tranny n dripping out. So the question is, is my new clutch shot or is there something I can do to fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
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post #2 of 7 Old 06-04-2014, 07:03 PM
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It sounds like your talking about engine oil leaking from the dipstick flange and getting blown back onto the clutch. If that's the case it will lead to a early death for your clutch. Get the leak fixed then drop the trans so you can see the clutch. If it hasn't started coming apart you can try cleaning it with non chlorinated brake clean but there is a good chance it will slip and come apart in the near future. Plan on replacing it.

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post #3 of 7 Old 06-04-2014, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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So pretty much the $1500 dollar clutch I just put in is toast already? I did take the inspection cover off n spray the clutch down best I could with the non chlorinated brake clean but hasn't seemed to make a difference. Do you have an idea to easily repair the oil leak other than pulling the pan and replacing, or just Mickey mousing it w job weld?
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post #4 of 7 Old 06-04-2014, 07:36 PM
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You have two options for fixing the leak without pulling the engine. You can attempt to repair the existing flange for $30-50 by replacing the oring and nut. IIRC when I did mine I used a kit from diesel orings that came with a few cheep tools to make the job easier. The second option which I would only recommend if the first option fails due to cost is Strictly Diesel which has a special replacement flange that can be installed from outside the engine.

As for your clutch, I don't think just pulling the inspection cover will help much. You need to inspect and clean the actual clutch material which is sandwiched against the flywheel.

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post #5 of 7 Old 06-04-2014, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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I had looked at both options and thought the strictly diesel was best option as the nut won't thread on anymore, but have been hesitant because of the cost. I think its BDP that builds full competition engines and they weld the nut to the pan and completely around it. The only downfall I see is if there was any leaks, or problems later on its welded and would need to pull the engine and replace the pan and everything. I guess next thing to do is pull the tranny and inspect the clutch, hopefully can save the clutch. One last question, any tips on bleeding the slave cylinder or strapping it back for removal so it doesn't have to be bled?
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post #6 of 7 Old 06-05-2014, 08:57 AM
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First, make sure that's your only leak. Check the engine valley; oil and fuel leaks on top eventually drain down between the engine and tranny.

You'll def. need to remove the clutch to clean the surfaces. Spraying from the inspection opening will do nothing, because of course, the friction surfaces are engage while the truck is sitting there.

Idea for the slave rod - cut a piece of milk jug plastic, see if you can slip it in between the slave rod and the fork. Then, get some zip-ties, and tie that piece of plastic to the slave body. When you go to remove the slave from the ear on the tranny, that should hold back the slave rod. As long as you keep the slave below the master, you should avoid introducing any air.
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post #7 of 7 Old 06-05-2014, 04:39 PM
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The rebuild kits come with a new nut which will work if the threads on the flange are still good. For the master slave, the easiest way to bleed them is to pump slave by hand then stick it back in the trans.

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