P1728 - '96 F350 7.3 XLT E4OD - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 01-18-2014, 10:55 AM
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Question P1728 - '96 F350 7.3 XLT E4OD

Recently purchased a '96 F350, 7.3L XLT and of course after a few days I got a special treat, the OD light started flashing and the computer threw it into limp mode.

So far, I have taken it to the trans shop. Luckily, small town, good down to earth guy at the shop.

Read codes, only code it is throwing is P1728 (slipage, well no kidding). He reset / cleared the computer several times in between test drives with me in the truck trying to get it to throw more codes to give us more clues on where to start.

After talking to the guy I bought it from he admits he had the torque converter replaced approximately a year ago after the converter completely blew on him. What care was taken as far as flushing and filtering after it was replaced is unknown. I am just going to assume no precautions were taken.

I would love to be able to just get it rebuilt or replaced with built upgraded parts, but that is out of the question at the moment.

I haven't dropped the pan yet or anything. I am waiting 'til the 1st to do anything.

So far, per a thread I found I went ahead and reset the computer and turn the OD off each and every time I get ready to drive and all seems good enough for in town driving. Hoping this will get me by 'til I figure out what the real issue is.

The trans guy said if I want to "fiddle fart around" (per his words) and try to avoid a rebuild to drop the pan, make sure there isn't an obvious mechanical failure and start with flushing. See what happens, if it persists try to get a hold of a solenoid pack and replace it. If still persists, then a rebuild is the only real answer.

Kind of typing this out as it comes to mind, so forgive me for being out of sequence.

As is right now, with the OD on it will slip and get thrown into limp mode within a couple minutes of being at highway speed.

The trans guy, while driving with his computer hooked up to my truck, said he was getting no signal at all from the input or output sensors (he had a couple other trucks in his bay at that moment and admitted he couldn't recall if my truck had those sensors or if they read back the way most do) and by watching the tach and speedo he could tell the torque converter was not locking up like it should.

Any thoughts from any of you guys with experience with these trucks?
I'm willing to let this trans nickel and dime to around $400 before I throw in the towel and go for a rebuild / replacement.

As I am planning on doing some heavy hauling, I suppose the smartest thing to do would be to just rebuild, but I'll see where it takes me.

Walking along the side of the highway can be kind of refreshing anyways.

I'll keep searching, but if you have advice and could link me to related references it would be much appreciated.

[UPDATE] 1

Complete fluid / filter change complete per Chop's instructions, flushed the cooler and added a bottle of Lucas.
I didn't add the cooler or extra filter yet though, I'm trying to pinch a bit and didn't feel it was a necessity at this point. The fluid I drained out didn't look horrible, but to me it did have a bit of a burnt odor. No unusual particles in the pan, just the normally fuzz on the magnet although there was quite a bit of it. At least more than I am use to seeing.

Currently it feels a little "better", but I can still tell either the converter isn't locking up like it should or clutches could be slipping. It does however feel like just a little more power is actually being put to the ground.
Yes, it is still being thrown into limp mode and of course in limp mode I am getting the hard shifts.

I'm thinking next on my agenda is to research what components are responsible for making the converter lock up like it should. I know it is highly dependent on fluid pressure, that being said here is one idea off the top of my head.

http://www.bullydog.com/product.php?...RD%20F-250-550

A "Shift Enhancer" from Bully Dog for 90 bucks. I'm thinking if I can add new life to older parts responsible for controlling the pressure I may save myself from a rebuild.

Other than that, all I can think if is solenoids. That is what I will have to research before I decide what to purchase next.

Right now I am in it at about $150, as said before I will likely throw in the towel at $400 and plan for a rebuild.

Any further input from anyone would be greatly appreciated.

Last edited by PowerStrokeNoob; 01-30-2014 at 05:19 PM. Reason: Update 1
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:03 PM
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If it was me I'd drop the pan and drain the convertor and change the filter and fluid .The filters have been known to drop thus creating a drop in pressure too .
The gaskets are reusable ,Ford has an updated pan with drain plug if you wanted to upgrade a bit also . Biggest expense will be your fluid choice ,you'll need about 4 gallons if I recall correctly .
If you wanted to add a cooler this would be a good time as well .
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:14 PM
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I'm not a transmission guy, what so ever. Motor, chassis and electrical I am pretty much G to G.

How would I drain the converter, would disconnecting the trans cooler line and starting her up pretty much do it?
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Old 01-18-2014, 03:02 PM
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Most convertors have a drain ,you'll need to turn the flexplate till you see the plug . I have serviced both PSDs that I've owned but they had the factory convertor with a drain ,not so sure with a replaced convertor though . Remove the inspection cover and turn the flexplate with a screwdiver a full revolution till you see it .It should be a 11 mm or 7/16th .
Pumping it out works but you need to supply fresh fluid at the same rate it's being released and the deposits would remain in the pan . There is a magnet in the pan to collect some of the wearables too.
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Old 01-19-2014, 10:04 AM
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Chop, I could be giving myself high hopes, but I'm thinking you could be right on this.

I'll know for sure on the first. I would assume it will end up being what you said or worn clutches. I would also assume that if it was an electronics problem the computer would be throwing a code for what ever component instead of just throwing the slippage code.

Between now and then I am just going through doing a detailed TI on the entire truck, finding little things here and there, nothing else found to break a sweat over though. Aside from the trans, ever so slight smoke on first startup of the day on cold mornings, a couple little squeaks and rattles I am still trying to chase down and of course some bushings.

For a truck that has been used as an "old just get around the property and take hunters out on hunting leases truck" that the previous owner didn't put much tlc into it is in good shape, I think.
I'm quite impressed with this truck, coming up on 350k miles.

Fingers, toes and eyes crossed for luck 'til the first. Let's hope I don't have to come back here spittin' and cussin'
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Old 01-30-2014, 05:18 PM
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[UPDATE] 1

Complete fluid / filter change complete per Chop's instructions, flushed the cooler and added a bottle of Lucas.
I didn't add the cooler or extra filter yet though, I'm trying to pinch a bit and didn't feel it was a necessity at this point. The fluid I drained out didn't look horrible, but to me it did have a bit of a burnt odor. No unusual particles in the pan, just the normally fuzz on the magnet although there was quite a bit of it. At least more than I am use to seeing.

Currently it feels a little "better", but I can still tell either the converter isn't locking up like it should or clutches could be slipping. It does however feel like just a little more power is actually being put to the ground.
Yes, it is still being thrown into limp mode and of course in limp mode I am getting the hard shifts.

I'm thinking next on my agenda is to research what components are responsible for making the converter lock up like it should. I know it is highly dependent on fluid pressure, that being said here is one idea off the top of my head.

Bully Dog - Ford 7.3L Shift Enhancer '94-'03

A "Shift Enhancer" from Bully Dog for 90 bucks. I'm thinking if I can add new life to older parts responsible for controlling the pressure I may save myself from a rebuild.

Other than that, all I can think if is solenoids. That is what I will have to research before I decide what to purchase next.

Right now I am in it at about $150, as said before I will likely throw in the towel at $400 and plan for a rebuild.

Any further input from anyone would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 03-02-2014, 10:14 AM
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BUMP

Haven't gotten much love in this thread...

Haven't ordered anything yet, I am hard pressed to believe there are any mechanical issues.

What I have done so far is installed a switch to lockup the torque converter. At low end speeds it has made a significant difference and everything is certainly moving 1/1, shifting and acceleration feels so pretty .. tells me the converter is locked in and the internal clutches are doing their job.... problem starts to occur at highway speeds.. the converter is somehow losing pressure or the computer is for some reason telling the converter to ease off..

Mechanically I think the converter is fine, when I engage the lockup switch in Drive with my foot on the brake it almost immediately bogs the motor and wants to kill it.

My negative posts on my batteries are showing signs of wear from me disconnecting them every other day lol

I am kind of at that point where I want to go a head and rebuild, but If I purchase a master rebuild kit and do the rebuild and it still does this I will be ticked off beyond belief. I have some jobs I can use this truck for in the coming months and really need to get this sorted out..

Being as though many threads have mentioned.. All of my lights, turn signals, hazards, dome, dash all work fine. I have swapped the vss with a new one from NAPA... I now know what a bad VSS does to the speedo. The one they sold me gave my speedo conniption fits at 50 and bounced all over the place. CPS seems to work fine, my Tach reads fine. Am I missing anything else?

Last edited by PowerStrokeNoob; 03-02-2014 at 10:26 AM. Reason: BTW
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Old 03-23-2014, 03:06 PM
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I am having almost the same issues with a truck i picked up last week 96 f250 eclb e4od 4wheel. Im getting the same code p1728. But mine does not go into limp mode the t
I.l. On the shifter is blinking. I hooked my mt 2500 to it and drove around while it was in live data mode shift solenoids 1 &2 both energize when their supposd to it goes into 4th but no lockup for the od. The convertor clutch solenoid displays turned on on the scaner but the convertor is not locking. From what i know the most common cause of the slip code is a crack in the apply piston of the torque converter clutch. This allows pressure to leak around the piston, reducing the force that holds the converter locked. Once slip hits 50 RPM a code os thrown and the light flashes so if you can get a scanner hooked up showing live data and the conv clutch solenoid shows its energized it eleminates the solenoid being bad and chances are your t/c is junk. If im wrong someone please correct me. Hope this helps. Derek
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