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Old 05-12-2013, 07:00 PM
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won't start

I have a 94 f350 7.3 turbo diesel. took it to a shop to stop the oil leak from the turbo. The j.a. mecanic had it for 2 weeks, fixed the leak but didn't change the 2in. piece of fuel line hose under the fuel filter. Drove it for about 3 months and the hose blew out, I pulled up to a stop sign, it died and I haven't got it to start since. Replaced that hose, 2 high pressure hoses on the intake, the water pump, pulleys and belt, and have re primed with no luck. Checked all the fuses, need help!
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  #2  
Old 05-13-2013, 09:09 AM
Hee Hee, he's doing it...
 

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Check Engine light and WTS light light up when you cycle the key? No white smoke from the exhaust after about 10 seconds of cranking?

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Old 05-13-2013, 09:48 AM
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Being a 94 is this an IDI or PSD?
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:54 PM
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Unhappy

It is a powerstroke. Yes the wts light comes on but the check engine light just flashes real quick, and no white smoke when it usually smokes alot. Also, I was always told they got good gas milege and I have had her 10 years now and never got over 10mpg...
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Old 05-13-2013, 07:03 PM
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Something's wrong. I get 17.2MPGs. Look here and find 34 and 49 (top just left of center). Get them half spun off 51 and 52. Throw a rag over them and have someone else crank the motor while you watch. These are the fuel return lines from the heads. When they start sputtering fuel you've pushed most of the air out. Tighten them back up and try to start again. Do not crank longer that 10 seconds and wait 5 minutes to rest. Otherwise you risk burning up the starter.


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Old 05-15-2013, 06:49 PM
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Okay, tried repeatedly, diesel coming out of lines but still no smoke and still won't start. should I replace all the fuel lines or do you have any other suggestions? When we we're trying to fix the leak in the turbo, we attempted twice, gave up and took it to a... shoddy mechanic who said they would have it fixed in 2 to 3 days and he had it two weeks, said that he couldn't get the turbo off and it was "so hard, he never had that much trouble getting a turbo off", mind you we had it off twice in the 2 weeks before we took it in to him. He also said he bet it would be back in a month leaking some where else. The kid looked like he was only 17 or 18, and the owner who was a certified diesel mechanic probly didn't even look under the hood, so i'm not in a hurry to try another one because it was so expensive
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:35 PM
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I know that situation with the mechanic. Back to basics. I know you posted some of this but I'll put it all out there. Check:

- oil level in the pan
- pull the HPOP sump plug and look in. What is the oil level in this second sump?
- fuses (not with your eyes but with a meter. Pay particular attention to 8, 9, and 22)
- swap relay 2 with 3
- does the RPM gauge bounce when you crank?
- pull one of the injector harness plugs off the valve cover and with a meter measure the voltage on the center pin with the key in run
- read fuel pressure, by using a cheap throw away tire pressure gauge, off the side of the fuel bowl (drivers side mid level) Schrader valve while someone cranks


Be careful that IF the engine starts during any of these tests to be ready to quickly shut it down. You are working with high voltages, fuel, and around that big radiator fan. Test and report please.

Last edited by BigFuel; 05-15-2013 at 07:40 PM.
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Old 06-29-2013, 06:51 AM
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Cool

So have had a few more vehicles die and have had to put my truck on hold for a minute. Back to trying to fix and been trying to find a book for this truck, the one we got has no detailed info on the diesel motor however and are once again stuck. Don't know where the sump is, etc. need some exploded pics or something for a better idea of what i'm looking at and thank you so much for your time and all your help, it is VERY much apprieciated!
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  #9  
Old 06-29-2013, 07:28 AM
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I can take a pic in a little bit but put your hand on the alternator, move it to the right about 8-10 inches, now it should be on this dull grey hump in the center of the block (above the water pump and between the alternator and A/C compressor). The dull grey hump is the HPOP sump. To the right of the top of it should be a 9/16-ish brass colored plug. This is the check/fill plug for the sump.

Don't buy a book, go here:

OBS Manual

It's a little confusing at first how things are cataloged but you will quickly figure it out.
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:12 AM
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Sump is dry, now what? Do i pour oil into it, prime it some how? Husband thought it would be a good idea, 2 weeks ago, to arc out on the alternator and get a third degree burn from the watch welding together so another little hiatus and back to work. It drained both batteries into his watch. Another "note to self moment" we live we learn...
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