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post #1 of 6 Old 01-28-2013, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Zf5 issues

For a while now putting the trannie in 1st or reverse to WAY more effort than the rest of the gears to engage. Now with the clutch pedal fully pressed to the floor the clutch doesn't fully disengage. I can put truck in reverse or 1st and with the pedal pressed to the floor it still drives very slowly. I have to make sure my foot is on the brakes at stop lights to keep from bumping the car in front of me. Bushing looks good on the pedal assembly. Is my slave going out? Thanks.

1996 F250 CCSB Centaurus 4x4, ZF5, 4.10 LS
Melling LPOP, Western Plow 56131K GPR, 203* Thermostat, BB Mod
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post #2 of 6 Old 01-28-2013, 05:58 PM
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Check the pedal linkage bushing again for any play. Also check the pedalbox mainshaft bushings as they can also affect the clutch action. Another possible area is flex in the firewall, but I think that was more common on older trucks than ours. You can also inspect the slave cylinder and mounting area for any abnormalities (cracks, etc.). Measure the slave travel (minimum is 11mm). Inspect the clutch release lever for flex, etc. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #3 of 6 Old 01-28-2013, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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checking it out

I won't be able to climb under it until Wednesday due to work schedule. Ill update my findings then. Thanks.

1996 F250 CCSB Centaurus 4x4, ZF5, 4.10 LS
Melling LPOP, Western Plow 56131K GPR, 203* Thermostat, BB Mod
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post #4 of 6 Old 01-28-2013, 09:22 PM
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Meanwhile, DO NOT use the brake to hold the truck back at lights/stops like this. This is not an automatic truck with a torque converter designed for this purpose. When you do this, you're constantly slipping the clutch, and it'll wear out prematurely. Shift to neutral at lights and keep your foot off the clutch until the light turns. Actually, you should do this under normal circumstances, as it reduces wear on the throwout bearing, and IIRC also reduces wear on the pilot bearing and the crankshaft thrust bearing on the engine.
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-03-2013, 09:30 PM Thread Starter
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clutch pedal

I seem to be getting about 2 in of play in the clutch pedal before it begins to press in on the MC. The bushing is good (I cannot get any play when I reach under there and try to get any play from the bushing). It looks like there is a spring behind the pedal that has the play. I had my wife pushing the pedal while I was watching the slave travel and when it is to the floor I am real close to the 11mm. So I am thinking that my trouble is that 2in of play before the pushrod for the MC starts moving. Is this the pedalbox mainshaft bushings in this area? What part of this picture do I need to be looking at?

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...e=stjsd10r.htm

Section 08-02: Clutch Controls

1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty Chassis Cab and Bronco Equipped with Manual Transmission Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Clutch Pedal

Item Part Number Description
1 2450 Brake Pedal and Bracket Assembly
2 01508 Pedal Support Bracket
3 56340-S2 Bolt, M8-1.25 x 16
4 13480 Switch, Stoplight
5 380699-S100 Pin, Self-Locking
6 2B129 Spacer
7 2A309 Bushing
8 7519 Clutch Pedal
9 2455 Brake Pedal
10 382802-S2 Nut, 3/8-16 Hex Flange
11 2140 Brake Master Cylinder
12 2005 Power Brake Booster
13 9C961 Bracket, Speed Control Dump Valve
14 9C727 Valve, Speed Control Vacuum Dump
Attached Images
File Type: bmp F250Clutch.bmp (19.3 KB, 56 views)

1996 F250 CCSB Centaurus 4x4, ZF5, 4.10 LS
Melling LPOP, Western Plow 56131K GPR, 203* Thermostat, BB Mod
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post #6 of 6 Old 02-04-2013, 01:08 PM
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The pedal box mainshaft bushings are the bushings for both the clutch and brake pedals (they are on the same shaft). Take a good look at the master rod bushing again while moving the clutch pedal. Two inches would be a boatload of play. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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