Hard to shift - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 11-22-2012, 04:51 PM Thread Starter
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Hard to shift

I have a 96 4x4 with the zf trannie that I just bought and finally got it running. It sat for a few months with engine problems. The guy I bought it from said it was rebuilt about 6 months before engine took a crap on him and looking under the truck the only clean part is the trannie so I believe him. This is the first zf trannie I've owned. I have to press the clutch to the floor to shift. I also have to force it into gears. It does not grind when I shift but it is hard as he** to get it into gear. Any help is appreciated.
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post #2 of 6 Old 11-23-2012, 10:58 AM
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The firdt thing to check is the bushing where the Clutch Master Cylinder rod attaches to the pedal linkage. Many times the bushing is in pieces and the rod eye has worn. If this is the case, most folks will use a heim joint fix available on ebay. If the rod end is OK, you can replace the bushing and use a 7/16" shaft collar (drill stop) to hold thing together (need to cut off the bushing tabs to use it). Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #3 of 6 Old 11-24-2012, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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video


Is this a video on the bushing you are talking about?

Thanks
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post #4 of 6 Old 11-25-2012, 08:42 AM
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Yes, that is the bushing. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #5 of 6 Old 11-26-2012, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Bushing

Bushing is ok and no play in clutch pedal. Master cylinder rod end ok too. Any other suggestions?
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post #6 of 6 Old 11-26-2012, 01:09 PM
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How much slave cylinder travel do you get? Make sure there is also no play in the brake/clutch pedal mainshaft bushings too. See if you can notice any "free play" in the clutch pedal (this is different than worn bushing slop). Kind of a change in resistance when the pedal is pressed (should be able to feel it when moving the pedal by hand). If there is a significant amount, you may need to "re-clock" the pedal linkage arm on the brake/clutch pedal mainshaft (it is splined and has th be pryed off) to get rid of it. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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