SPILLING FLUID.. Not sure which seals to replace

[derek18105]

Hello, I have a 97 f250 4x4 with the automatic e4od transmission. I was towing a car on a car hauler through the mountains and my trans began to overheat. I was able to make it all the way home by adding trans fluid and not stopping. Once I got home and allowed truck to cool, the trans would only leak a few drops a day. I read online that it can push the front seal out and it heals itself once cool.
Well a weak ago i was pulling two little jetskis on flat ground and it did the same thing. Coated the jet skis with trans fluid and ruined my day. I want to fix this. I pulled the trans and have the pump out of the trans.

I want to know which seals i should replace. Everyone says the front seal but i am unsure towards which one that is. I see there is a a pump seal, torque converter seal, a seal that sits behind the pump and one that goes around the pump. Visually they look fine to me but they still could be worn out.
I also noticed that my torque converter has some notches on the metal shaft sticking out of it. Signs of wear. The truck shifts pretty smooth and firm, well for a 97 with 260k miles its definately not bad.

I also cleaned out the oil cooler lines with brake parts cleaner to make sure it runs cool from now on, as i dont have a trans temp gauge yet. I plan on buying one.

Heres some pictures of the t.c.










Any input would really help, i need to get this truck back on the road. Thanks guys

[BigFuel]

Are you asking about the two notches on top of the neck of the TC? Those drive part of the pump when installed. Different tranny's have different drive mechanisms. Ours have a keyway like the LPOP others have notches. The common wear seal is the wiper seal that cups the TC neck because they spin against each other. Clean the TC neck real well and inspect it for any roughness or scratches. Real light scratches and roughness you MIGHT get out with 0000 steel wool. If its not perfectly smooth it will damage the new seal quicker. Inspect the seals mating hole in the pump and clean well. The new seal will come with a dry sealant around the metal edge/ring that is supposed to fill in gaps if they present during installation. I will still use a very light coat of gasket maker on the mating surface before install. Install the new seal and put the lightest of coats of grease on the wiping surface (center rubber edge) and the whole TC neck. This will help them come together with less potential damage to the new seal and help it's brake in.

[derek18105]

Thanks for the info. So you recommend using gasket sealer between the TC seal and the pump which is sits in? Just making sure i understood that right. I work at a machine shop and we have scotchbright pads (very similar to SOS) that i will use to clear out any scratched on the torque converter.

Also, how do you get that seal out? Im afraid to use a flat head and pry against the pump. I was wondering if there is a better way to do this.

Thanks again, Derek

[BigFuel]

Yes, very little just to take up any abnormality in the two metal surfaces. Scotch pad is fine as long as its a very fine grit. Your polishing the neck not sanding it.

There is a wiper seal puller at your local parts store. It's cheap, like $6. Don't pry in one place work your way around it.

[derek18105]

Okay thanks for the help! The parts should be getting in today and i'm about to go buy that seal puller.

[forddieseldoctor]

Look real close at the bushing in the front pump behind the seal. That is what holds the convertor centered. If it's worn it will blow the front seal again in a very short matter of time.

[derek18105]

Umm yeah im thinking that bushing is toast. I wonder how it got this bad?

I cant find where to buy this bushing, im still searching

[forddieseldoctor]

Usually they come only with the front pump assembly. I can't really see much in the pic other than a few marks on it. But I'd say that if you're not worn through the copper at any point then you should be okay.