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post #1 of 12 Old 06-24-2012, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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help please

i been up and down on the forms on tranny temp. I need a straight answer on the correct running tranny temp and the temps to be worried about i was towing my boat single axle trailer my tranny temp got up to 195 to 200 no hills all city driving i took a pic but cant down load it srry the fuild is red not burnt its the oringal tranny cooler then after unloading boat it still was running high temps 200 its was about 100 dergrees out side today please any help would clear my mind also i had a code 1728 couple of times clear them and its ok for a while but the code comes on while u start the truck wierd so again please help
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post #2 of 12 Old 06-24-2012, 08:04 PM
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I run under 180* towing 10k for a period of time. I think the 100* may have played a roll in your temps, id see where it runs on a cooler day and no load. and city driving would def help it heat up with little air flowing over the cooler. just my 2 cents

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post #3 of 12 Old 06-24-2012, 08:05 PM
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Pulling a 9kish lb fifth wheel on the highway, I'd probably average 180*F.


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post #4 of 12 Old 06-25-2012, 11:40 AM
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I'm still using the stock cooler pulling a 12K trailer through the desert, I hit 210*. Both my diesel shop and my tranny shop say to pull to 240* before wondering if your harming anything. They also say to not pull anything with temps under 170* as the fluid in the tranny is too thick at this point. Make sure your temp sender is installed in the tranny, not in the pan or in the cooler lines.

Matt
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post #5 of 12 Old 06-25-2012, 03:44 PM
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240*F? Please
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2000 F-350 Lariat Super Duty, Dually, CCLB, 7.3L
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post #6 of 12 Old 06-25-2012, 04:12 PM
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Thank you for the charts but IMO you've helped me prove my post. Tank even posts right before it "Alot of people freak out for no reason,..." Over 240* and you start doing damage. They are also very general. Are the charts just for our e40d? How do we know that it's not for a Honda with tiny clutch packs?Those Charts have conveniently left off Fluid Change Intervals so at best you can assume that this is what would happen without changing your fluid. New fluid is designed to remove and cleanse the Tranny's internals. Washing out debris as well as varnishes (why do you think that adding a quart of new tranny fluid to your diesel tank is practiced once a year). With unloaded and normal driving it's easy to keep her under 190* but towing introduces a lot more variables. With any towing you aught to move away from a 30-40k fluid dump to a more realistic 15-25k.

Matt
'97
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

-Oh, and a 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4


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Last edited by BigFuel; 06-25-2012 at 04:15 PM.
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post #7 of 12 Old 06-25-2012, 04:37 PM
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Is the E4OD and cooler that bad about keeping temps down?


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post #8 of 12 Old 06-25-2012, 04:47 PM
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The cooler is really small, about 6x12 that I think is 4 passes and is a single depth. I should have replaced mine when I installed my IC. Now it's buried. Your 4R100 is the same housing but different guts. Even the cooler lines are 3/8" to our 5/16". Our coolers only see 10-15% new of the total fluid going through the tranny at any given time. Pretty weak. 4R100's have better parts making a rebuild of our E40D's easy with your parts.

Matt
'97
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

-Oh, and a 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4


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Last edited by BigFuel; 06-25-2012 at 04:51 PM.
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post #9 of 12 Old 06-28-2012, 02:32 PM
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30 years in the trans business and this is my #.. The further below 200, the better, over 200, not good. And that idiot that said below 170 was bad??? Mine runs 120, has 2 coolers, might reach 150 when pulling the camper.
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post #10 of 12 Old 06-28-2012, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ipz2222 View Post
30 years in the trans business and this is my #.. The further below 200, the better, over 200, not good. And that idiot that said below 170 was bad??? Mine runs 120, has 2 coolers, might reach 150 when pulling the camper.
I tried but I can't let this go. I too was a tranny builder for Ford and the service manual clearly states that normal trans sitting temperature is between 150* and 170* and that it should be at this temperature in 20 minutes of unloaded normal driving. No tranny builder will warrant putting a big load on a cold tranny and not expect undue tranny wear from the super heating of the TC and then shoving that fluid the internals of the trans and clutch packs. This causes warping of the steels and valves. So you've found a way to keep your tranny more cool with extra coolers and the like. This already makes your answer null and void to the OP as he was looking for stock numbers to compare to his stock set-up. And I'm the idiot??? No sir, you made yourself the idiot.


Matt
'97
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank

-Oh, and a 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4


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