Feeler: Reverse/grind/no engage - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 05-08-2012, 01:35 AM Thread Starter
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Feeler: Reverse/grind/no engage

95, F250, 5-speed manual 7.3 Powerstroke:

Truck runs, and shifts nicely. Push the clutch pedal to the floor, push the shifter into reverse (seems like it engages) start releasing clutch, then LOTS OF GRINDING and it kicks the shifter back to neutral.

However, if you shut the truck off, shift to reverse, then fire it back up, it's FINE!

The clutch grabs when the pedal is about an inch from the floor...

Syncro's? Clutch? Trans?

The only thing I haven't tried yet is double clutching in neutral then trying reverse... I won't be back at the truck for another week and a bit, thought I'd try to feel out thoughts on it.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 13 Old 05-12-2012, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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nothing eh?
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post #3 of 13 Old 05-13-2012, 07:41 AM
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I'd guess its a combination of synchro/slider failure. It's quite common to on these trucks with the poor clutch pedal/bushing design.

1997 Ford F-350 4x4 SRW regular cab manual trans.
-Rosewood 160cc, 17*HPOP, EPBV delete, 4.10s, 315/75r16

1996 Ford F-350 4x4 SRW CCLB manual trans. CALI spec
-ATS intercooler, WW2 w/ 1.0 housing/EPBV delete, Comp 910s, SD Efuel, 3.55s, 315/75r16

2002 Ranger FX4 with manual transfer case and Alcoa's
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post #4 of 13 Old 05-13-2012, 01:55 PM
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If it grabs that low on the pedal travel, and engages with the engine off, it's probably the hydraulics not pushing the clutch open enough. That or weak pressure plate fingers. Or the craptastic plastic bushing on the pushrod is shot.

Slide under the cab with a tape measure / ruler while you have an assistant hop in the cab and work the pedal. Measure the distance the tip of the fork moves. If it's less than 1/2"-9/16", the problem is upstream (hydraulics, bushing, etc). If it's at least that, then it's downstream (pressure plate, synchros).

Silly question maybe, but, how are the tranny and clutch fluid levels?
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post #5 of 13 Old 05-13-2012, 03:01 PM
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Mine has always grabbed that low, however I get full fork travel

1997 Ford F-350 4x4 SRW regular cab manual trans.
-Rosewood 160cc, 17*HPOP, EPBV delete, 4.10s, 315/75r16

1996 Ford F-350 4x4 SRW CCLB manual trans. CALI spec
-ATS intercooler, WW2 w/ 1.0 housing/EPBV delete, Comp 910s, SD Efuel, 3.55s, 315/75r16

2002 Ranger FX4 with manual transfer case and Alcoa's
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post #6 of 13 Old 05-13-2012, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I'm picking the truck up in one week.. Thanks for the thoughts guys... I plan to go over it completely once I get it, as it does need some work.
Thanks again guys, I'll let you know what I find.
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post #7 of 13 Old 05-21-2012, 04:28 PM Thread Starter
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I checked out the notorious clutch 'bushing' and the bushing is gone, the hole is an oval, and the pin is about half what it should be... Just ordered the Heim joint fix and will repair once I get it. ... Thanks again for all your help, I'd imagine this will help fix the problem. Maybe not all of it, however, I'll be able to do my process of elimination. . Thanks again!
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post #8 of 13 Old 06-02-2012, 08:53 AM
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My '95 does the same thing, but not quite as bad. I'd never tried shifting into reverse with the engine off.

I'm guessing you're having a hard time getting the synchro to engage fully because the clutch is grabbing slightly, putting pressure on the driveline. Fix that, and the reverse issue should be partly resolved.

It gets worse if you don't take care of that; the synchro won't often wear as much as the teeth on the gear do, just because the synchromesh teeth on the gear face are smaller. The teeth begin to get a bevel wear on them, and they'll allow you to go into gear just fine, but the taper will cause the gear to kick the synchro off. Too much of that, and you'll be left without reverse at all. Don't be tempted to try to hold the trans in reverse with the shifter- the trans is stronger than you are!

Worst case scenario, you've gotta go find a ZF with good gears and swap guts (or at least that one gear). If you delve into the guts, it'd be a good idea to replace all of the blocking rings and synchro dogs at the same time.

Nick

1995 F250 XLT 7.3T (on donor '97 engine with 180xxx miles) 4x4 - LuK SMF, Diamond Eye 3" downpipe to 5"straight-pipe exhaust. ZF5 manual trans, Curt hide-away gooseneck hitch, Super Duty suspension conversion.

1997 F250 XLT 7.3T - 2wd E4OD, alloy wheels w/ bald tires, gooseneck hitch, pretty much bone stock. Soon to become a trailer, spare tires, spare parts, and scrap.
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post #9 of 13 Old 06-02-2012, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n9viw View Post
Don't be tempted to try to hold the trans in reverse with the shifter- the trans is stronger than you are!
"Hand shaker" becomes "wrist breaker"....
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post #10 of 13 Old 06-14-2012, 10:01 AM
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I know this thread is getting old, but my '95 did the same thing. I drove it that way for a while, starting it in reverse when I had to, or just parking it on a grade so gravity was my reverse.

In my case, the clutch pedal and hydraulics were fine, it was the transmission. Definitely check those first. But new synchros in the ZF5-42 cured the problem. This was at about 250k. Now at 272k and still going like new.

~Bruce~
'95 F250 4x4 ECLB 295k - ZF5, Southbend, 4.10, van pedestal, EBPV & CCV delete, 1.0 ex housing, 3" DP, 4" exhaust, BFAF, 140v IDM, MagHytec diff cover, HD front springs, 16x8 alloys
'95 F-Superduty 4x2 CM 12' Flatbed 47k - E4OD, 5.13, Banks intercooler, van pedestal, EBPV & CCV delete, 1.0 ex housing, 3" DP, 4" exhaust, BFAF, PHP tunes, 6.0 fan, 140v IDM, TruCool, MagHytec diff/pan, Dieselsite external trans filter, Autometer gauges, 180w LED light bar
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