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Old 03-21-2014, 03:30 PM
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Vibration over 50mph/ engine miss

hey guys my 96 7.3 is having some issues that have gotten worse over the last few months. It has had a slight miss or hitch in its set off idle for some time but never really caused any notice in power loss. But two weeks ago it has started to have a vibration getting up to speed but has gotten worse any now shakes the whole truck over 50 mph. If i let off the pedal it goes away, at idle it has a slight miss above 1k and will continue up to 2k. Truck is now def down on some hp and struggles with the chip in stock. Turn my chip up and it does a little better but still has a bad vibration. It also has a surge at idle when warm. So here is what i have checked.

valve cover harness is new less than two months and checks out fine still
checked the hpop at wot its pulling 2500psi
no codes and passes buzz test though i do have some injectors sound a little different.
Icp is wet with oil, unplugged it my surge went away but plugged it back in and it didn't surge again?? Still has miss with it unplugged

I tried to do a cylinder contribution test but can't get the engine to warm up enough?? Drove at 60 mph for over 45 min and still won't let me run it. radiatior is covered (Maine winter) coolant temp up to the first line. Is there a way to fool the computer to force it to run the cylinder test???

I think I might have a bad injector but not sure. ebpv is unhooked and is not closed so i ruled that one out. Any help would be geat
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Old 03-21-2014, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 73nancy View Post
I tried to do a cylinder contribution test but can't get the engine to warm up enough?? Drove at 60 mph for over 45 min and still won't let me run it. radiatior is covered (Maine winter) coolant temp up to the first line. Is there a way to fool the computer to force it to run the cylinder test???
This might be the root of your problem. Maybe the engine really is getting to full temp, but the EOT isn't reporting it. Since the PCM uses EOT to time/fuel the engine, maybe it's timing/fueling it as if it thinks it's cooler than it really is, thus not tuning it right for the actual temp. Drive it around again, like to where you think it should be fully hot; feel the coolant hoses, etc. Then plug in whatever device you're using and set it to read EOT, see what it says.

'Course, the oil-sodden ICP connector indicates the sensor has blown its seal and is probably bad. May not be the root problem, or even a major factor, but something you want to address.
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Old 03-21-2014, 04:42 PM
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the engine was def up to temp I would think it was blowing really hot air out of the vents. warmest it has been all winter since it was high 30's today and I ran her pretty good. I have heard it needs 200 degrees oil temp does that sound right? I do notice my exhaust temp gauge is all out of wack but it might be the gauge if i step on the gas cruising along it will spike it to 1500 then finally settle to 400-500 ..
where is the EOT? Ill try to search for it now . thanks
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:16 PM
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EOT is on the HPOP reservoir, IIRC. But since you obviously have some kind of communication device, set it to read EOT and see what it says when it's good and hot as you describe.

Actually, I think the minimum EOT for a CCT is 170F. Don't have that particular manual; just going by memory.
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:25 AM
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I did look at it last night on my AE but the engine was cold, i will try it again. I ran the truck with it unplugged last night and it ran better at idle and off idle in park but when i took it down the road it didn't do so well. The computer in default mode def made it slam in each gear and power was inconstant. I'm going to run it in a little bit, is there any other things i should look at on my graphs on my AE going down the road? thanks
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Old 03-22-2014, 10:46 AM
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just got back from a test run of the truck here is what went down. Ran the truck with the icp unplugged had my AE hooked up the whole time. Truck idles better but still have a vibration and computer def does seem to adjust quite right. So i decided to plug it back in and unplug the eot sensor at this point i was at 150 degrees. Took it for another spin nice road 55 mph no big difference still has a vibration. On my way home i plugged everything back in the way it was. Its def got a miss/ vibration 1300rpm is the sweet spot will vibrate the floor and you can hear a little injector clatter? roll on and off the throttle it will shake sounds like its got a small jake break kinda of a groaning exhaust doesn't have a clear note to it. Turbo sounds fine and pulls boost. let off the throttle goes right away, slow down truck will vibrate a little bit as the rpms come back down.

coolant temp reads 30 but i heard in a auto truck it doesn't matter the gauge is coming up?

Still could not get the truck up past 150 on the eot. when i unplug it goes to default at 212 and it def has more power but still shakes 60mph or above the engine has a rough time. It did get worse once the engine warmed up i ran the truck without the icp and when it was still warming up it didn't shake as bad even at 60. the more i drove it the worse the truck felt. WOT no vibration in the high rpms. Any ideas what to check next? I will replace the icp since it has oil in it. and the eot still on the fence if its bad?? its 30 out right now maybe thats why i cant get 200 out of it??
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Old 03-22-2014, 11:55 AM
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There is no coolant sensor for the PCM, so you can disregard that number. If EOT isn't going over 150 after a good run, the sensor must be faulty. IIRC, the EOT also plays a role in controlling the EPBV, so that may be what you're detecting with the jake brake effect.

Confirmed, found a diagnostic PDF that says EOT must be at 170F for a CC test.
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Old 03-22-2014, 12:05 PM
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I have my ebpv unhooked below the turbo and the flap is open. I'm going ro try and buy a ips and eot tonight. The vibration and noise is hard to describe it goes in and out.
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Old 03-27-2014, 04:57 PM
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a little bit of a update.. I Decided before i pull the valve covers and check the injectors to pull the rear drive shaft. Sure enough I had one cup that was bone dry with all its needles gone. It had worn the joint to about half its size. The rest were still fine!! Lucky for me I had a spare kicking around put it in and vibration is gone!!! Still have to replace the Icp sensor and hope that will fix slight engine miss. Thanks for the help so far see if I can get her squared away.
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