95 anti theft - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-19-2014, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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95 anti theft

Lost my key to the theft system years ago. Somehow got activated last week. Unplugged batteries, hooked back up started fine. So been driving truck today and wouldn't start. WTS light came on, but wouldn't crank. Heard relay clicking in fuse box. Pulled and switched relays. Now nothing. No WTS no nothing.I unhooked batteries and seems to be drawing power to something(sparks when touched). Really need the truck right know. Any ideas? Thanks
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post #2 of 10 Old 01-19-2014, 02:52 PM
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I don't remember reading about any separate key for the anti-theft system on the '95s. Are you sure we're talking about the factory system?
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post #3 of 10 Old 01-19-2014, 03:05 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, came with a button to open doors,panic button etc.
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post #4 of 10 Old 01-19-2014, 03:19 PM
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On a key? Or was it a stand-alone remote?

There are instructions in the owner's manual for disarming the anti-theft.
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post #5 of 10 Old 01-19-2014, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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I guess the stand alone remote. Anyone know how to disarm. Don't have the manual. Something is really pulling volts out .I will start pulling fuses to figure out what. Also the relay clicking in the fuse box has me baffeld.
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post #6 of 10 Old 01-19-2014, 05:32 PM
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Here you go. BTW, owner's manuals are cheap and ubiquitous on eBay.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf ManualTheft.pdf (793.3 KB, 64 views)
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post #7 of 10 Old 01-20-2014, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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So tracking short drawing on batteries. I pulled one fuse at a time and checked to see if it was still sparking at battery.Replace fuse. Pulled every single one and all relays.Still sparking at terminal.Hooked batteries up and started. Puulled connections while running to check alternater. Worked fine. Turn off truck and no more srark at terminal. What just happened. It's fixed, but not sure when it will happen next. Any ideas? Thanks
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post #8 of 10 Old 01-20-2014, 12:35 PM
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Removing the battery terminals while the engine is running is a good way to fry the alternator, PCM, any number of other components. Everything you described you could have tested faster and safer with a multimeter. And without a multimeter, you won't know what is happening if/when it happens next.

When it failed to start, did the horn sound? Does the horn work?
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post #9 of 10 Old 01-20-2014, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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Horn hasn't worked in a while.Makes a loud clicking sound and theft light flashes when system is set off.I have never heard of frying an alternater by checking them this way, but I'm definatly a shade tree mechanic used to working on older cars. How would you find the short with the meter faster? Just wondering. Thanks
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post #10 of 10 Old 01-20-2014, 11:48 PM
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The horn was probably still drawing power every time the anti-theft was energizing it; that could be what pulled your batteries down.

Battery draw test - remove both negative cables, then connect a meter set for current (amperes) in series betweeen one of the negative posts and its cable. Then start pulling fuses until the meter no longer responds.
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