Tensioner replacement - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 08-10-2013, 04:00 PM Thread Starter
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Tensioner replacement

Any tips on replacing the tensioner. is the hex bolt that holds it in reverse thread?

95 250 2 legger
zf5
all stock besides a stack
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post #2 of 7 Old 08-10-2013, 04:03 PM
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One bolt normal thread, believe its hex, make sure belt is removed before trying to take tensioner off. Nice and simple job to do


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1995 F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 5 Speed, 6'' Lift. DIY Intake/Napa filter, 4" exhaust.
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post #3 of 7 Old 08-10-2013, 06:00 PM
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The tensioner bolt is normal right hand threads and takes a #50 torx bit (IIRC). Use a good quality bit (and make sure it is fully seated in the bolt) as the bolt sometimes corrodes and can be difficult to remove. I shattered one bit before using a better quality one to remove my 97's. The tensioner's pulley has the lefthand threaded bolt. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #4 of 7 Old 08-11-2013, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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I worked on it for a few hours yesterday. The bolt holding it in is NOT coming out. I broke one torx bit and stripped the bolt...@$%! How do you go about removing this stripped bolt. Tried heat already

95 250 2 legger
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post #5 of 7 Old 08-11-2013, 07:33 PM
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Never got to that point with mine, but maybe you could remove the alternator bracket with the tensioner installed and drill off the head (or maybe get some penetrating oil in from the back side)??? Once the tensioner is removed you might be able to use some penetrating oil (or more heat) on the leftover bolt shaft. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #6 of 7 Old 08-12-2013, 08:08 PM
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Something like this might do it:
Alden 8440P Pro Grabit Broken Bolt and Damaged Screw Extractor 4 Piece Kit - Amazon.com Alden 8440P Pro Grabit Broken Bolt and Damaged Screw Extractor 4 Piece Kit - Amazon.com
, if there's one big enough for the stripped-out torx hole. They seem to be more amenabe to allen, torx, etc. fasteners that already have a hole in the head, so to speak, rather than the conventional "easy-out" style extractors that are so infamous for breaking off in the bolt shank.
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post #7 of 7 Old 08-13-2013, 03:00 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all of the replies. What ended up doing it for me was a pipe wrench and a breaker bar. But it seems I can't catch a break, as the idler pulley right below the tensioner is stripped too. I AM really clueless on how to go about removing it because there is no way to get a wrench on it. I guess I will have to take an acetylene torch to it..

95 250 2 legger
zf5
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