Oil leaks from inspection plate an burning oil. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 07-26-2013, 07:40 AM
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Oil leaks from inspection plate an burning oil.

Hey guys...

I'm going through oil like crazy. Went through 1 gallon yesterday on 100 miles. White/bluish/greyish smoke coming from exhaust when warmed and idling. Runs fine. Just blows through oil.


Planned on doing injector o-rings this month. Note: I only drive 1 day a week for fun and lawncare biz.

Now I stopped at gas station today and noticed dripping. Crawled underneath and there's either oil or diesel dripping from Inspection plate cover. It's sliced through from vibration missing a bolt. Not sealed tight. Months ago I had a drip here and it was diesel from the lift pump going bad. Changed that. Hasn't done since.

It's really hard to say if diesel or oil. Smells too much like exhaust to tell but not strong enough for pure diesel. So I'm thinking oil. Yellowish clear. And I always have clean oil cause I'm always filling it. Can't see any major leaked from top of engine. A little oil but I think that's cause I always miss pouring sometimes. Oil leaks from inspection plate an burning oil.-imageuploadedbyautoguide1374853223.433005.jpgOil leaks from inspection plate an burning oil.-imageuploadedbyautoguide1374853242.741948.jpg

Oil pan isn't rusted out. Take a look at pic. Anyone have this issue?


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Old 08-07-2013, 08:09 PM
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Sounds like all of the sudden you have multiple oil issues.

1. Smoke out the tailpipe is probably O-rings. Also could be turbo seals.

2. Oil leak underneath, since valley is dry from where you can at least see, is probably the turbo pedestal.

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Old 08-07-2013, 08:27 PM
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I also have fuel dripping from the inspection plate. It seems like it starts dripping from around the starter and then eventually from the plate. Haven't figured out exactly where it's coming from yet. I may have to check my lift pump to see if that's leaking.
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Old 08-08-2013, 09:51 AM
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I think I've narrowed it to oil leak. Gonna try and clean it up and spray with degreaser and see if I can pin point.

O-rings being ordered. Nervous to do them so ill be researching.

DC- when I had fuel coming from inspection plate it was the lift pump. I monitored for a week then all the sudden my whole tank was in the parking lot. I got mine from advance- it's an airtex. I think I paid under 100 with coupon. No issues for 6 mo. Despite the reviews I read that were bad. I ignored of course. Haha. Let me know if you need a brief write up.


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Old 08-20-2013, 11:05 AM
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Dont be nervous to do the injector o-rings. I replaced 1 injector last weekend and the other 7 o-rings and it was one of the easier things I have done to the truck. My only recommendation is to make sure you have some sort of vacuum pump and a very small rubber hose to get the oil/fuel out of the rear cylinders. I read that you can turn the truck over to get the oil/fuel out and I tried that with a piece of cardboard over the engine bay after I sucked out as much as I could with the vacuum pump and it still made a HUGE mess so I do not recommend that. Also make sure you put the batteries on a charger, I unplugged my valve cover harnesses and cranked the motor over for 15-20 seconds 5 times and plugged everything back in and it fired right up.
I followed this write up from swamps http://www.swampsdiesel.com/site/how...or_removal.pdf
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Old 08-22-2013, 11:08 AM
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Injector o-rings are a fairly simple job. Things to keep in mind:

Be sure to keep the injectors in order and put them back in the same holes.
Be sure that the copper washer comes out with the injector or, if it doesn't, that you remove it before you reinstall the injectors.
Lightly lubricate the injectors and o-rings with motor oil before you reinstall them.
Check over your wiring harnesses for ANY damage as this is a great time to replace anything that is damaged.
Ohm your glow plugs for the same reason. If they are bad, they'll be at infinity or somewhere above 2-3 ohms.
Use quality parts. Don't skimp and end up with cheaply made Chinese-manufactured parts.
Don't give in to temptation and put those injector tips up to a wire wheel. Very bad idea. If they are seriously sooted up, use a rag with some carb cleaner.

When you remove the injectors, each will allow some amount of engine oil to drain into the associated cylinder. There are numerous ways to get this oil out of the cylinders prior to attempting to start the engine. **You MUST get as much of this oil out of all the cylinders as you can.** If you don't, you'll end up trying to compress a liquid (engine oil) which doesn't compress. Lot's of bad, ugly and expensive things happen that way.

When I put my Stage 1's in, I pulled all of my glow plugs then turned the engine over by hand using a socket on the crank bolt with a long handled ratchet. Oil will squirt out of the glow plug holes and can drip everywhere so have some kind of catch pan or card board, etc. under the engine.

Be sure to use an inch-pound torque wrench when reinstalling the hold down bolts. 125 inch pounds is pretty easy to do on an inch-pound wrench, 12.5 foot-pounds is a whole lot harder to hit each time.

If you gather all of the parts first and have an average ability under your hood, this can easily be done over a weekend if you take your time and are working alone. A Saturday or Sunday if you are good and/or have a helper.

Oh, I removed my hood first too. Way easier to get to everything that way.

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Old 08-27-2013, 05:15 AM
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Thanks guys! Ordering on pay day. I'm gonna order the alliant power rings from accurate diesel. It's days that they are the oem ones.

http://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/94.html

Anyone have bad quality issues with these?


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