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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Pasadena, CA
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The first picture is the injector from the last cylinder back on the passenger side. This is the shape it came out and the dents and scratches were there when I pulled it out. Question about this one is simply whether or not this injector body is usable as is. You can see that there is also discoloration above that first o-ring. Is this normal?
To me this is not looking good for your injectors or the person that installed them. This injector damage looks like the injector cups were flawed or someone installed them with a punch or chisel creating deformations in the cups that then in turn damaged the injector bodies. Very light scratches can be seen in properly installed cups but this is on the bad side. Did you find the copper sealing washers when you removed the injectors? If you don't then the previous installer may have forgotten to put them in and this is where the discoloration is coming from. This can be cylinder pressure burning up into the injector/cup area.
A few of the other injectors that also have the same discoloration in the same place. Not all of the injectors have this discoloration. Just asking again, did you find all of the copper seals at the bottom of the cups?
On the combustion end of one injector (first one in line on the passenger side), you can see discoloration and what feels like a very thin build up of soot or carbon? None of the other have this build up. I read on a thread someplace that this was a sign of the injector not being torqued properly. This is entirely possible since no two of the hold downs seemed to be tightened the same amount. Some were MUCH tighter than others. I looked up the torque specs for the hold down and my book says 120 inch pounds. 120 lb-inch is the correct torque for the injector bolts. Using a lb-ft torque wrench set to 10 lb-ft will not have the same accuracy as a lb-inch torque wrench set to 120 lb-inch. Ideally you would want to install the injectors, run the engine at operating temp for 10 minutes or so, shut it down and cool off, and check torque again before closing the Valve Covers. Yes you can run the engine with the Valve Covers off just be careful to not let things like leaves and dirt float into the top of the heads.
Anyway, the next question is whether or not this can be cleaned up and reused. It can be cleaned but it should be done at a certified diesel injector repair shop. They can clean and flow bench the injectors for around $200 (all 8, L.A. prices) and completely disassemble and repair your injectors in the neighborhood of $300-$500 depending on the damage and where you send them. The holes in the injector tips are microscopic and cleaning the tip by hand can clog your holes.
Look here: Full Force Diesel
Finally, I don't see ANY holes in the injector tips for fuel ports. All have some carbon build up, none of the tips are split. Covered above. ^
Feel free to chime in with answers! There isn't room in my budget for all new injectors though if that's the only answer...
Lastly, how normal is the oil puddle in the turbo housing like this? I know it comes from the breather being plumbed to the intake but what is the best/economic fix for this? For the OBS trucks quite normal. There are DIY write-ups here on the .ORG but I'm lazy and bought this:
DFUSER Diesel Performance Products
See above. ^^^
-Bean's: 160/100 (FF Injectors), 2/ 6-POS chips (TW & Beans tunes), Overboost controller, E-Fuel
-BANKs: downpipe, full exhaust, gauges, intercooler
-Irate: T-4 kit, IC pipes, 3" Irate Plenums, BASB Turbo
-Stage II trans.
-Mag-Hytec trans. and pumpkin covers
-6637, CCV, IDM, 6.0 Fan, 49-Federal PCM swap, MAP line Mod
-370 Amp alt., 40k trans cooler, ADRENALINE PUMP
-twin on-board air w/ 10 gal. tank
-Oh, and a 2015 F350 6.7L DRW 4x4
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Last edited by BigFuel; 04-08-2013 at 12:44 PM.