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Need some help here
My truck is a 96 F250 7.3. All stock except for AFE intake and MBRP exhasut.
Few weeks ago the exhaust leak where the up-pipes go into the turbo adapter got to the point that it was making me sick to drive the truck for more than a hour or so at a time. Also I had a bad EBP leak. Took the turbo, up pipes, and pedestal off. Cut the pedestal down and had it TIG welded to eliminate the EBP valve. Ordered the new high dollar bellowed up pipes from International, and the new piece that the down pipe hooks up. And also all the assiciated O rings and bolts. Been working on it for a few weeks, jst a little here and there. Finally got it all back together tonight and now it will not start. Before I started this it ran like a champ. It will spin but its acting like its not getting any fuel. It will spin but there is no white smoke like when its cold and I forget to plug it in. While trying to start it it shook like it wanted to start but then the batteries started going down so I hooked up the charger and came inside before I got upset. Anyone have any ideas of things to check? I went back over all the connections and they all appear to be hooked up. Crawling all over the motor one can un plug stuff by accident. Thanks Greg G
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Wait-To-Starlight coming on? How's the main oil level? Make sure the fuel bowl harness is connected and the IPR is connected (if you messed with the fuel bowl at all). Cheers!
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Lots of places you can check that's true. Maybe start with the UVCH plugs, the fuel bowl heater and wiring plus use an ohm meter to check fuse 22. From what I've read on this board and others, it never hurts to swap the CPS.
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OK couldnt stand my truck not starting after its all back together so I went back out and messed around some more. I turned the key forward and went under the hood to check some connestions and see if I had power. I kept hearing a sizzling noise and I noticed some smoke from one of the UVCH conectors, drivers side front (closest to radiator). Killed the power and pulled the connector and the plastic around the first and last pin was melted looking and one of the pins, the one that gets power was gone. Cut back the wiring loom and inspected the wires and it appears that its only the connector thats trashed, I was so afraid I had let the smoke out of the wires. Unplugged the connectors and then turned the key back on and checked my glow plug relay. I had power across both terminals for a LONG time, I checked it after about 5 minutes and still had power at both terminals. The glow plug relay is NEW. I installed it while we were waiting on parts, its the Vato Zone special so it might be bad. Maybe the UVCH shorted out, not sure. At least I have a starting point, I think.
The connector that is melted is that the one for the glow plugs and can it still be had new? Greg G |
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I'm sorry, all the correct lights are coming on, the oil is full, and I didnt mess with the fuel bowl, I fixed all those leaks a couple of years ago.
Greg G |
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Sounds like you found the problem Greg. Replace those connectors/wiring/etc. and you are likely good to go. My big boots get me in trouble sometimes too.
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The older I get the more my fat a$$ gets in the way. I am going to start with the gaskets and connectors and go from there. Figured since I have to do one, I might as well do both since they are the same age and have a little seepage.
I'll post up when I get it all done and let everyone know what all I had to replace and fix GREg G |
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Make sure that the relay you got is a CASE ISOLATED relay. If the case is the grounded type, the glowplugs will not shut off (the glowplugs should not be getting juice after 5 minutes). Cheers!
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Explain "case isolated?" The one I have is the one the parts guy at Vato Zone gave me. It looks like the others I have gotten inthe past.
They were still on after 5 minutes so I am pretty sure this one is bad. With the plug being bad, can this cause the relay to stay energized all the time? Gonna take it off and try and return it but if not I am going back to NAPA or maybe order the Stancor one. Greg G |
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None of the terminals on the relay should have continuity with the metal portion (bottom) of the relay. Cheers!
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