One problem after another....

[fat_boy]

New to this site, lots of useful info here, but I would appreciate all the first hand info I can get. Just a little history on what ive done so far.
Located in Fl.
1995 F350 Dually 7.3 TD DI
250,000 miles
Just had oil change/filter and fuel filter
New-rebuilt injectors installed(8), new Motorcraft GPs(8), new belt, Valve cover gaskets done, DIY air intake tube 3" with filter and CCV filter installed.

So I have done all this work so far and now I still have a few issues. Here they are.
1. The CCV filter I installed is blowing smoke from it and completely saturated with oil. I'm going to run a hose from the CCV to the back to delete the filter and get the exhaust out the engine bay, fumes are entering the cab. Is there a way to keep the oil from draining out the hose? Just make an upside down U in the hose at the CCV?
2. Smoke comming from Dipstick tube, If i pull the dipstick up some oil is spitting out the tube when idle. I figure I have some blow-by and I know the oil is a bit over filled, maybe a mm or 2 over the fill line but im confident this is not the reason why.
3. Smokes when starting up. Not sure wether to call it white or blue. On cool days 45*-60* it looks white with a puff of black in it now and then. Runs like crap for about 1 mile then clears up. Read that is because of the EBPV not letting the turbo spool. Is that the case? Smells strong... like burnt diesel fuel or oil but strong enough to take my breath away.
4. Powersteering pump was leaking, fixed it with a nylon seal around the hose threads but now it seem like air in the system and makes noise and dosent turn well. How am I supposed to bleed the PS system?
5. 3rd gear grinds unless I let the motor come to idle speed. I would like to try changing the fluid in the tranny. What is the best to use and where do I get it? I believe it needs synchros from what ive read here, but I cant afford that right now.
6. Found oil dripping from around the turbo, well underneath, looks like it may be comming from the pedistal area( maybe where the rod goes in from EBPV).
7. And hopefully last, Somedays it takes a few attempts to start it and some days it starts on the first turn of the key, not sure why. When it takes a few times to start it blows dark smoke from exhaust, cycle the key a few times and it busts right off. Idles bad for about 5 secconds and clears up. Blows white/grey smoke for about 30 secconds, but it fills up my yard and its strong smelling, like oil or tons of fuel( same as above).

Not sure what is going on with this truck... Never owned a Powerstroke before, but not new to diesels and none of this is familiar to me, never had any issues with my other diesels. Any info would be appreciated, the smoking thing is embarrasing, looks like the truck is on fire. Bout ready to give up on this truck, but I have too much time and money in it now to just give up. I want to fix this truck!!!
Thanks for looking and any advice.

[Patrick Feeley]

For me, if the truck does not have an intercooler, I would rather have the CCV in the stock configuration. Some folks will use a catch can on the CCV to catch oil as it builds from the fumes and occasionally empty it. The smell just kind of goes with the territory there.

Oil spitting from the dipstick tube would not be a good thing and I would imagine that your blowby is considerable. Try placing the oil fill cap upside down over its hole and see if it blows off (it should not).

For #3 and #7, check the voltage drop across the glowplug relay (to the passenger side and in front of the fuel filter bowl). Place the DVOM leads across the relay's large terminals when the GPR is active (up to about 1.5 minutes after the key is turned to Wait-to-Start). A reading of 0.3V or more and the relay is bad. I like the Stancor 586-902 as a replacement. On the factory relays, the contacts are supposed to rotate slightly each cycle to "wear" the contact evenly. If you end up on a bad spot it doesn't start too well, good spot it starts great.

For the tranny, I found that running 4 quarts (through the shifter hole opening) of RedLine MTL helped with the bad synchros.

Oil from the pedestal area could be from the Exhaust Back Pressure Valve (EBPV) actuator rod or it could be from the pedestal O-rings (2 O-rings on both the turbo-to-pedestal side and on the pedestal-to-block side). You can get a kit to rebuild the actuator or as many have done, gut the valve and plug the rod hole (or modify the original/purchase a non-EBPV pedestal).

Powersteering problem is interesting. Make sure that you didn't block any of the port when sealing it. You might consider new hoses and it should "bleed" by itself provided there's enough fluid in the system.

Cheers!

[fat_boy]

Thanks for the info. I have been looking for a new OEM boot from turbo inlet to the cast intake( that mounts on the valve cover bolts and CCV fitting goes into). The old one I have has a tear in it and is unusable. I did try the oil cap upside down and it just stayed there for a while till the vibration slid it off. No bouncing from excessive pressure. Im sure the blow by is excessive, the last owner was ether happy. Im going to get compression checked when I have the money to buy the gauge.
I thought it might be the EBPV rod. I will check it out when I have more time to tear into it. Is there any issues that could arrise with the EBPV deleted?
Powersteering was doing this when I did the repair, just was spitting fluid out the seal.
I will check the voltage drop across the GPR, thanks for explaining how to do it!
Thanks for your help.

BTW: What weight of Redline MTL? Nevermind... I see its just MT 90w available. Thanks

[Patrick Feeley]

I never had any issues with the EBPV deleted (I did have a idle control to boost the idle for warmup). Here's the part number for the factory intake boot kit (all brackets, hardware, hoses, clamps, boot, etc.):

Turbo Intake Hose (Black Updated Hose Kit)
(Ford) F7TZ-9C681-AA

Get it from someplace like Tousley Ford Parts online (unless you get a break from your local dealer). There are aftermarket hoses available for a little cheaper (I prefer to keep it factory and it's a good kit).

Cheers!

[Haulstroker]

Strictly my opinion: Bleed that PS system before you start the engine and drive the truck. Here's how I bleed PS systems:

1. Remove PS drive belt from pump.
2. Disconnect the RETURN/LOW PRESSURE hose at the reservoir. Plug the connection on the reservoir to prevent loss of fluid.
3. Fill the reservoir to the recommended level and place the return hose where it will dump into the reservoir.
4. Spin the pump fairly quickly, fast enough to generate a steady flow from the return hose into the reservoir. I use an air-powered grinder with no grind or cutoff wheel. Loop an old drive belt over the arbor for the grinder and over the drive pulley on the pump. Drill motor works just as well.
5. Run the pump until no air comes out of the return hose.
6. With the front tires off the ground and the pump spinning, have someone slowly turn the steering lock to lock four or five times. This will help to purge most of the air from the steering box (or rack as may be).
7. Once the air has been bled from the steering box, reconnect the return line to the reservoir, check/fill the reservoir as recommended.
8. Replace the PS pump drive belt.
9. With the front wheels still off the ground, start the engine and LET IT IDLE. Turn the front wheels from lock to lock four or five additional times.
10. Put the front end back on the ground and, again at IDLE, turn the steering several times lock to lock.
11. Check for leaks at all hose connections and resolve before driving the truck.

Should be good to go from there.

[7.3powerstroker]

If you have a lot of blow by how do you go about fixing this or is the engine basically garbage


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

[fat_boy]

Originally Posted by 7.3powerstroker

If you have a lot of blow by how do you go about fixing this or is the engine basically garbage


Sent from AutoGuide.com App

Im guessing that its on its way out.... Im going to drive it till the motor is worn out then buy a rebuilt motor or rebuild this one if I can.

Thanks for the tip on bleeding the PS system, I will give it a shot my next day off.

Thanks for the part# on the boot... Definately going to replace it!

[madpogue]

Tranny requires synthetic ATF.

"Cycling" the key does nothing. As stated in the owner's manual, the glow plugs stay on for up to two minutes. If you want more glow plug time, just leave the key in RUN for an extra 10-15 seconds. But as said above, test of the GPR and glow plugs, and wiring, are in order.