Need some help with pulling the engine. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 02-05-2013, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Need some help with pulling the engine.

So my oil pan gasket is leaking and I've decided to pull the engine instead of cutting the crossmember. It seems to be the right way of doing things.

I have the rad out and most of the hoses and lines disconnected. Do I need to take the turbo off ? And how do I go about disconnecting the tranny. It's a zf5 by the way.

And the little ac cooler thing that's in front of the rad. I went to un hook the lines but it started spraying everywhere. Is there some way to release the pressure and fluid or just undo the lines and let it go.


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1995 F350 7.3l
5 speed
240,000km
DIY Intake
3.5"dp to 5" straight pipe
99 Turbo and Spyder
6" Lift
37" BFG KM2's
Harley Davidson Leather buckets
Grant Steering Wheel
Autometer Gauges Pryo,Boost
CB Radio
Custom Bumper(built it myself)
Clear Headlights (black background)
Black Grille and Headlight Trim

Soon to come

Custom Rear Bumper
Headache Rack
6.0l intercooler (already have one just need to pipe it)
rosewood stage 1's
custom tunes


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post #2 of 15 Old 02-07-2013, 01:28 PM
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I'm new to these things and wouldn't have believed you would have to pull the motor to do a simple oil pan gasket. Some engineer should have been shot a long time ago. I'm at work without the truck, so I can't look, but I would seriously consider cutting the cross-member as long as it can be re-welded correctly. Yea, maybe a few bucks to have it re-welded, but would be a HUGE time savings. Also, you never know what you might run into pulling the engine. Right off the bat, you will have the cost of re-filling your A/C, radiator, powersteering fluid, etc., etc., etc.... $200 bucks in fluids is 2-3 hours of weld time right off the bat.
MTCW - Bill
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post #3 of 15 Old 02-07-2013, 01:34 PM
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On another note, I don't know how bad your leak is, and yes, it is a little ghetto, BUUUUT. Drain the oil, dry the seam with brake fluid and run a bead of Permatex Ultra Grey or "Right Stuff" around the pan.
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post #4 of 15 Old 02-07-2013, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helievacpilot View Post
On another note, I don't know how bad your leak is, and yes, it is a little ghetto, BUUUUT. Drain the oil, dry the seam with brake fluid and run a bead of Permatex Ultra Grey or "Right Stuff" around the pan.
In my experience, Ultra Grey is way better than Right Stuff. Yea, it costs more but we've repaired 20 year old gaskets with it. When I changed the thermostat in my 6.0 I stretched the rubber o-ring on the thermostat housing. By this time it was late and nobody was open to buy another and I needed to drive the truck in the morning. So I cut the o-ring to fit, caked on some Ultra Grey, and still drive it like that many miles later lol

---Garret
2006 F250 6.0 XLT FX4 CCSB
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post #5 of 15 Old 02-07-2013, 02:42 PM
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i cannot help much on the zf5 question but i did pull the motor 3 times on my 97.

you do not have to remove the AC condensor (the thing wit the little lines going to it) but you do have to remove the radiator. IF you do want to remove the AC condensor then i would recommend takign ti to an AC shop and have it evacuated first to suck out all the freon, helps the enviroment and will save you when charging it back up. butyou can remove the AC compressor fromt he bracket and lay it over out of the way wiht allt he lines hooked up.

the turbo can reamin on the motor to pull it. once everything is loose you have to pull the motor up a ways then rotate it 90* and pul it out sideways from the way its supposed to be in the truck. weird i know but the opening isnt wide anough fro the motor to be pulled out long ways. i pulled alt he drive accessories of the fron tof the motor before i pulled it, it made more room, theres only a few bolts on each bracket on either side of the motor.

Brett
'08 Ford F-350 Powerstroke Lariet 4x4
SPARTAN Tuner, Flo-Pro 5" Exhaust 6" Tip, EGR Delete W/ Hi-flow Elbow, S&B Intake, B&W Hitch, 2.5" Leveling kit, 20x12 FUEL NUTZ, 33x12.5 Toyo MT's, PIONEER Screen, ALPINE Amp



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post #6 of 15 Old 02-07-2013, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Need some help with pulling the engine.

Yeah Ive done a lot of research on this in the past week. And I do a lot of work on my own vehicles just haven't had to pull an engine yet.

But the leak is bad.

And I'm a fabricator so cutting the crossmember and re welding it would be and easy task to do myself but the engine on this truck has 400,000 km and isn't running the best.

So I decided to pull the engine. I've got almost everything out. Dropping the tranny tomorrow and she should come right out. My buddy has a 7.3 with 200,000 km so I think I'm gonna put that engine in it. Or I'll just slam this one bak in and beat it till it dies if it ever does lol


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1995 F350 7.3l
5 speed
240,000km
DIY Intake
3.5"dp to 5" straight pipe
99 Turbo and Spyder
6" Lift
37" BFG KM2's
Harley Davidson Leather buckets
Grant Steering Wheel
Autometer Gauges Pryo,Boost
CB Radio
Custom Bumper(built it myself)
Clear Headlights (black background)
Black Grille and Headlight Trim

Soon to come

Custom Rear Bumper
Headache Rack
6.0l intercooler (already have one just need to pipe it)
rosewood stage 1's
custom tunes


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post #7 of 15 Old 02-07-2013, 02:50 PM Thread Starter
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Need some help with pulling the engine.

Okayy thanks yeah **** the turbo is hard to get at back there. I'm gonna pull the turbo off once it's out and put the new wicked wheel in.

I haven't pulled the ac condenser yet thank god. And some people were saying you have to take the rad support off and all this ****. Glad I left it all on.




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Shelby


1995 F350 7.3l
5 speed
240,000km
DIY Intake
3.5"dp to 5" straight pipe
99 Turbo and Spyder
6" Lift
37" BFG KM2's
Harley Davidson Leather buckets
Grant Steering Wheel
Autometer Gauges Pryo,Boost
CB Radio
Custom Bumper(built it myself)
Clear Headlights (black background)
Black Grille and Headlight Trim

Soon to come

Custom Rear Bumper
Headache Rack
6.0l intercooler (already have one just need to pipe it)
rosewood stage 1's
custom tunes


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post #8 of 15 Old 02-07-2013, 02:50 PM
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nothing to pulling them, just make sure you have a VERY strong cherry-picker, or use what i used a forklift. these engines are very heavy every bit of 1200lbs.

when reinstalling be sure to fill the fuel bowl with fuel and the HPOP res with oil or youll be cranking for a LOOOONNNNNGGGGG time.

PS- now would be youre easiest time to change injectors for some newer/bigger units. you wont believe how much better the truck runs with new sticks

Brett
'08 Ford F-350 Powerstroke Lariet 4x4
SPARTAN Tuner, Flo-Pro 5" Exhaust 6" Tip, EGR Delete W/ Hi-flow Elbow, S&B Intake, B&W Hitch, 2.5" Leveling kit, 20x12 FUEL NUTZ, 33x12.5 Toyo MT's, PIONEER Screen, ALPINE Amp



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post #9 of 15 Old 02-07-2013, 02:53 PM
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be sure you get the right WW. some are just the OBS (94-97) powerstroke turbo wheels for superduty trucks. be sure it says for 94-03 powerstrokes, if it only says 99-03 then youre just getting what you already have.

Brett
'08 Ford F-350 Powerstroke Lariet 4x4
SPARTAN Tuner, Flo-Pro 5" Exhaust 6" Tip, EGR Delete W/ Hi-flow Elbow, S&B Intake, B&W Hitch, 2.5" Leveling kit, 20x12 FUEL NUTZ, 33x12.5 Toyo MT's, PIONEER Screen, ALPINE Amp



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post #10 of 15 Old 02-07-2013, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
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Need some help with pulling the engine.

I'm gonna use our bobcat to pull it. And yeah i would like to get some bigger Injectors for sure just dont really have the money right now. Might send these in for a reman. And yeah the wheel is for 94-03.


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Shelby


1995 F350 7.3l
5 speed
240,000km
DIY Intake
3.5"dp to 5" straight pipe
99 Turbo and Spyder
6" Lift
37" BFG KM2's
Harley Davidson Leather buckets
Grant Steering Wheel
Autometer Gauges Pryo,Boost
CB Radio
Custom Bumper(built it myself)
Clear Headlights (black background)
Black Grille and Headlight Trim

Soon to come

Custom Rear Bumper
Headache Rack
6.0l intercooler (already have one just need to pipe it)
rosewood stage 1's
custom tunes


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