Help!!!!

[C_gullion]

Ok so I put a TS chip on my truck and it was starting to crank slower and slower now it has no start wts light comes on and everything just cranks really slow and then stops. I charged the batt individually and went out still nothin, help????



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[HVAC SuperTech]

Needed to test batteries individually. And test alt. Could also be the starter

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[BigFuel]

Test your GPR too. If it gets stuck closed "on" that will pull amps out of those Batteries fast.

[C_gullion]

That's the thing it's got a brand new alt, glow plugs, GPR, batteries, and terminals????


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[HVAC SuperTech]

You have a draw somewhere. ...do you have a mulitimeter?

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[C_gullion]

Yes, but I'm not 100 sure on how to use it


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[C_gullion]

What would be good places to check for the draw?


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[C_gullion]

Welp I took the batteries and starter to autozone today they said the starter was shot but batteries were good so looks like I need a starter!! To bad I'm broke right now lol


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[HVAC SuperTech]

Need to set it on the continuity setting. Alot of meters beep when you touch the leads together when its on this setting. If you don't have that one then ohms will work. Mine had s draw and it ws stupid simple...it ws the pos batt cable going across my intercooler that had a cut in it.. you can put 1 meter lead on the positive battery cable, and then the other meter lead start touching the frame the radiator you have a metal intercooler tank start checking that to make sure that none of that has any continuity to the positive battery cable. All that should be grounding points. You want to see an OL on the meter screen if it's in ohms at all times. If you see anything other than that when you touch the positive battery cable and checking the frame then that's why your draws occurring somehow. If nothing there than what I would do is start checking your circuits with the key off check all your fusible circuits and see if any of those have a big power draw through them


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[C_gullion]

Ill look into it thanks for the help


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