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Old 12-29-2012, 09:28 AM
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No start!

I just changed the glow plugs and now the truck won't start. The batteries were low on juice and I couldn't crank on it, so I charged it overnight. Now it cranks but I don't think theres any fuel getting to the engine because theres no chugging or white smoke like there normally is when it's this cold. I checked and got a little fuel to drip out of the line that goes into the fuel bowl. Could it be the fuel pump or something else? Any advice would be useful thanks!!

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  #2  
Old 12-29-2012, 10:07 AM
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Could be pump, or lots of things.
I'd think maybe uvch got disturbed since you did gp's

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Old 12-29-2012, 04:57 PM
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check high pressure oil pump reservoir. it should be no less than a 1/4 inch below the fill hole. if its lower fill it with engine oil
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:25 PM
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Does the WTS light come on?
Does the tach move when you crank it?
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:57 PM
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Hey everyone, just joined the site I have been on others but this thread seems to have people who know and work on the 7.3 DIT motor. I figurd I wold post here as I am having pretty much the same problem and maybe we all can come to an answer. He is a bit of info about my situation,

95 F350 7.3 DIT with about 165,000 on it, has been primarily a plow truck the last 10 years. The guy I bought it from did a 1st gen minute mount on the truck with the old 12 pin connectors, however I found out the hard way the guy did not know how to wire and wired the plow lights and power right into the main headlight and marker light harness. Well long story short I am anal and got fed up withy he lights going out going down the road, I pulled the wiring harnesses apart and removed all of his hacked wiring, I got down to the main harnesses and took forever to locate all of the wires to the markers and headlights even with a schematic. Today I made it a priority to finish the wiring as it was snowing tonight, got all the lights wired correctly and found one dead wire going to passenger marker lights so I wired a bypass 16 gauge from the rear marker wire that runs down behind the motor. All lights work now, all markers and directo
Iona's, my problem now is that throughout the day I was removing and reconnecting the three main wire distribution boxes, the two on the firewall that go to the inside fuses and inside functions as well as the wire loom to the injection control module on the drivers fender, I would say I had to remove them and reinstall them about 6 times each today just to check voltage and continuity of wires, I however being cold today and hands numb accidentally wacked the injection module controller with the ratchet today, I got everything buttoned up and went to start the truck wouldn't not kick over, it will crank and crank forever but just will not fire up. Throughout e whole process I had a battery charger on the main battery throughout the day while I had lights on, when I was finished with everything it just cranked and never fired and refuse to dump ether into the intake. Fishing around for the past 5 hours seeing what it could be came to the conclusion of many things, the ICP, CSP, oil pressure pump, fuel pump and of course the injection module controller I wacked with the ratchet. Now with about a foot of snow on the ground here in RI I am without my plow truck, I really need to get the truck running so I can plow my accounts tomorrow which I know probably is going to be a long shot. Does anyone know if a sudden shock to the injection control will disable it or fry it when I hit it with the ratchet, or possibly maybe fried something else during removal and installation of the distribution blocks so many times, I will also admit that once or twice I accidentally also removed the distribution blocks while the ignition key was on and flowing so I know I possibly may have fried something. I am at a stand still. I have all the manuals for the truck and can find all the sensors, just didn't really want to spend about $600 this weekend t get it up and going. There are a few things I will be checking in the morning which mainly will be the oil level in the reservoir for the high pressure pump, outside of that any suggestion with what I did today where the best place to start is. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.

Greg
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  #6  
Old 12-30-2012, 05:02 AM
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Yes the wait to start light works and the tach works to, and when you crank on it long enough there is oil pressure. Cold it be just the fact that it's been sitting in the cold for a month?

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Old 12-30-2012, 09:44 AM
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Are the batteries good and charged up? Try leaving the key in RUN for an extra 15-20 seconds, then turn to START. See if you get any smoke then at least. If not, then it's likely either a fuel issue or the IDM not controlling the injectors.

A month -- could it be you still have non-winter diesel in the tanks? If you can get your hands on some Power Service Diesel 911, try draining the bowl, and opening it and filling it with the 911, see if it at least barks.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:41 PM
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does anyone have a picture of the uvch? changed my plugs and relay n have a hard time to start
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  #9  
Old 12-30-2012, 05:30 PM
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UVCH

Hey powerslave, the under valve cover harness (uvch) is attached, the picture is from autozone, not that I would buy it there but they have the best picture of it I've seen.

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  #10  
Old 12-30-2012, 06:16 PM
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Okay. I'm gonna check that out. Seems cheap enough to just replace. Thanks for the help


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