Engine Died While Driving, No WTS? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 12-28-2012, 07:13 PM Thread Starter
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Engine Died While Driving, No WTS?

97 Powerstroke was having some hesitation around 1.5-2k. Then, it sputtered and shut off (luckily close to home.)

Symptoms:

-No WTS light.
-Tach does not move while cranking, but motor seems to be turning plenty fast.
-12v on one side of GPR, no voltage on other.
-I tried to jump both lugs on GPR together to warm glow plugs (is this correct?) truck would not start.
-Seems to crank fine and batteries are good.

Things I've tried:

-Replaced CPS (had a spare, thought this was it for sure.)
-Checked all fuses under hood and inside cab.
-Swapped relay 2&3 (read on here somewhere to do.)
-I read several posts relating to this, but I didn't see one exactly like this: motor shut down while running, no WTS, all other dash lights working, CPS changed and no voltage on one side of GPR.
-I disconnected the battery (in hopes of a miraculous computer reset) before borrowing a code reader.


I'm going to check some ground connections, but since it shut off while running could it be the PCM? I don't want to throw a bunch of expensive parts at it without a good idea of the problem.

Thanks!!!

Last edited by desertlover; 12-28-2012 at 07:17 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 12-28-2012, 09:23 PM
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Test - don't just visually check, but TEST with a meter - fuse #22 under the hood. If it's good, then indeed it could be the PCM, or the wiring/connector to it. Look for voltage on the red/green wire to one of the small terminals on the GPR.
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post #3 of 12 Old 12-28-2012, 11:37 PM
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If that fuse is blown, then remove the plug on the back side of the fuel bowl, replace the fuse and see if it fires up. If it does, then your fuel bowl heater is shorted to ground. I've had mine unhooked for over 3 years and its fine,

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post #4 of 12 Old 12-29-2012, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
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Guys,
I put a meter to the backside of every fuse and found little resistance. i will double check #22 this morning.
I will also check for the other voltages mentioned.

Thanks for the quick replies!
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post #5 of 12 Old 12-29-2012, 11:39 AM Thread Starter
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Update:

Fuse 22 measures good. There is no voltage between the red/green wire and the other small wire on the GPR (with key on and off.)

What does this tell me?

Thanks,
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post #6 of 12 Old 12-29-2012, 12:55 PM
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Check the voltage between the red/green wire and ground with the key in RUN.
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post #7 of 12 Old 12-29-2012, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Madpogue

I get .4v from red/green wire to battery ground (with the key in run.) Is that good?

Thanks,

Last edited by desertlover; 12-29-2012 at 03:42 PM.
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post #8 of 12 Old 12-29-2012, 04:52 PM
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Hmm, that wire should get voltage directly from fuse 22. Try this -- pull that fuse, then turn the key to RUN and put the red probe of the volt meter on each of the terminals of the fuse socket, one at a time, with the black probe on a good ground. One of those should give you 12V. If it doesn't, check fuse #17 in that same row, count five down (toward you) from fuse 22. Should be a 50A fuse; check it.
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post #9 of 12 Old 12-30-2012, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Update:

Ok, it turns out that I am unable to read an Ohm meter and a fuse diagram (was looking at it upside down).

Fuse #22 is indeed blown, I am going to get a new one today. Also, I have a red/yellow wire disconnected on the drivers side of the fuel filter, is this the fuel bowl heater?

thanks
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post #10 of 12 Old 12-30-2012, 11:56 AM
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Pretty sure the fuel heater wire is red/green. The green might look yellow after all these years, though. Test - pull fuse 22 and turn the key to RUN. Put a voltmeter on that wire terminal (black probe to ground), should get no volts. Then put fuse 22 in, now it should read 12 V. If so, that's the fuel heater wire.
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