My 95 powerstroke has been starting up just fine. I went to start it yesterday and it wouldn't turn over. I have a brand new starter and batteries. I sprayed some starter fluid in and it turned over, but immediately died. Any advice?
/\ +1 Don't spray starter fluid unless you deactivate your glow plugs.
Start with the simple things first. Is the Fuel Bowl full of fuel? Is your tach moving while its cranking? Is your wait to start light on before cranking?
The starting fluid will go directly into the chambers which happen to have the intake valve open. The glow plugs in those chambers will immediately ignite the starting fluid. The resulting blast will blow out through those intake ports and up to the air intake. It's been known to blow up some fellas' air boxes. Thus, it is not a dumb question (it would only be dumb if you ignored the admonition....).
Starting fluid is really intended for spark-ignition (gasoline, etc.) engines, where the spark occurs (plus or minus a few degrees) right when the piston is moving from the compression to the power stroke, because it ignites so easily, even with weak spark. It does work on compression-ignition (i.e. diesel) engines, but only when allowed to stay in the chamber until the transition between the compression and power strokes.
Batteries are probably getting weak, but that's secondary. The truck WILL NOT start unless/until you get a WTS light and tach movement. True, CPS is always suspect in a no-tach no-start, but a bad CPS will not cause the WTS light to fail. If you're absolutely dead certain that fuse #22 (middle row, closest to the engine in that row) is good, then there's likely a PCM or wiring problem. There's also a relay that energizes the PCM. Does the glow plug relay close (do you hear it click when you turn the key to RUN)? That will at least tell you if that fuse #22 circuit is energizing properly.
Probably because your batteries are weak now.
They need to be 850CCA minimum a piece, and load test individually good. Have clean connections too.
You might try a CPS. That might be the reason the tach isn't moving. No WTS could mean the fuel bowl heater shorted out, blew it's fuse which also supplies power to the PCM. No PCM could mean no WTS light and no tach movement.
Ok. I've been reading up on the bad CPS symptoms, and that's what it sounds like. Should be a cheap fix. Do I have to worry about the timing when I R&r it? I know I should keep the key out of the ignition and remove the fuse. Any other advice?
I wouldn't even worry about the fuse but it's not a bad idea.
Timing is all PCM controlled.
Just look over the CPS harness and connector once you pull it off. It may have frayed wires in it.
Yeah, I hear the click for the glow plugs. I don't know for due that I every had a wts light. The previous owner put a Bezel from a non diesel truck on it. I didn't see it come on when I pulled the Bezel back. I also noticed some oil on the ground from the front end of the engine.
Well, I'm retarded. I went to take out fuse 9 and noticed I read the fuse chart backwards. Looked at the right fuse 22 this time and it was blown. All the fuses checked good with the tester, but I guess I missed it.
:rofl: At least you caught it. That woulda been a long road of testing things that were ok.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
5.4M posts
265.8K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to Ford F-series owners and enthusiasts with a Power Stroke diesel engine. Come join the discussion about performance, bulletproofing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!