Fuse 22? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 12-13-2012, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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Fuse 22?

I have a '97 F250 PSD 2WD with 150K. It's been mostly trouble free until lately. I had a problem recently (I posted here in another thread) where I started the truck, put it in reverse, and it promptly died and wouldn't restart. I tried to run a scan, but it wouldn't even read on the Snap On Scan Tool. Thanks to this forum, someone suggested that it was the fuse to the PCM. I checked the fuses and 30 amp maxi fuse #22 was blown. I unplugged the fuel heater as suggested and had no more problems. I drove it daily for almost two weeks, then this morning, the exact same thing happened.

The fuel heater is still unplugged but I'm still blowing fuse 22. I read in the OM that fuse 22 runs the PCM, fuel heater and the glow plug relay. I disconnected the GPR, replaced the fuse and it fired right up. It ran for approximately 30 seconds, then I noticed the voltage needled bottom out and it died. Another dead fuse.

My first instinct at this point is that I obviously have a dead short somewhere, but where? The wires going to the GPR look okay and so do the ones at the fuel heater. The part of the PCM outside of the firewall look decent at a glance.

Has anyone else had this issue or can you point me at least in the right general direction? What can cause these fuses to keep blowing? I assume I unplugged the correct line to the fuel heater. It was a small single black wire on the side of the heater. I didn't see any other wires.
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post #2 of 7 Old 12-13-2012, 02:33 PM
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did you tape up the end of the wire so that it cant short out on the block?

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post #3 of 7 Old 12-13-2012, 04:50 PM
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On a 97, there will be 3 wires on the driver's side of the fuel bowl: top-most is the fuel restriction sensor wire on the Fuel Pressure Regulator block, next down is the fuel heater wire that has a funky-looking spade connector, then the lowest one would be for the Water-In-Fuel (WIF) sensor. You want to unplug the middle one (and as mentioned, make sure that it can't short on anything outside the fuel bowl). Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #4 of 7 Old 12-14-2012, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
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I think what I'm unplugging might be the fuel restriction sensor wire. It's the only wire I saw, but it's definitely NOT a spade connector. It's a single black wire with a 90 degree plug in head protected by a rubber cap, very much like any other sensor. I'm at work at the moment and the truck is at home, so I can't run out and check. I didn't notice any other wires, but I was looking specifically at that black wire thinking it was the right one. Are these other two wires harder to see or are they on the fuel filter housing itself? What color are they likely to be?

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction before I start to tear into all of my wiring trying to find a short.
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post #5 of 7 Old 12-14-2012, 08:40 AM
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They are a bit more difficult (more up against the bowl surface). If the heater wire doessn't seem like it wants to come off, don't force it (the feedthrough part will cost you about $50 to replace if you damage it (from experience here). Another way to disconnect the fuel heater is to drain the fuel bowl, remove the filter, and disconnect the little spade connector on the inside driver's side of the bowl. Note if you do want to remove the black plastic standpipe in the fuel bowl, it is lefthand threaded (use a 7/8" crows-foot wrench to remove). Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #6 of 7 Old 12-14-2012, 02:05 PM Thread Starter
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When I disconnect it, does it pull straight out or up? I found the wire but I haven't been able to disconnect it. It wouldn't just pull free, even with a screw driver behind it or a pair of pliers pulling on it. I don't want to break it, either. Should I remove the block housing that the top sensor is plugged into or would I be better off draining the bowl and removing the filter and doing it from the inside?

I thought about just cutting the wire and taping it up, but I don't want to do that if that will cause other problems.
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post #7 of 7 Old 12-15-2012, 07:09 AM
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It will come straight out. If it's me, I just disconnect from the inside (since I went through damaging the feedthrough and having to remove the bowl, etc. to replace the part). It takes a little extra time, but it's easy. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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