Several issues with my truck I would like to get fixed. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 12-02-2012, 03:51 AM
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Cool Several issues with my truck I would like to get fixed.

I have a '95 PSD 2x4 with 245K miles on her. When I bought the truck, I got her for $2100 and knew it had issues. She was neglected by an oil field worker for a long time apparently. I have been getting her back together and every fix I have done has made an improvement. Here is what I have done over the last 2 years and some of the issues I have that I would like to get fixed.

With the cold weather here, I am having the same problem as a lot of people. Hard starts! But, last year I replaced all the glow plugs (6 of them were bad) and replaced the GPR which was bad also. Still had to plug it in if the temp dropped below 50. This year, I did some troubleshooting and decided I had several injectors that were acting up, missing at all rpm ranges, barely running when cold, etc. The injectors I installed are stock so there is no modifications. The truck is running tons better. The day after the install, it was 50 and it started without being plugged in. The night I took it to work (70 miles round trip, 75 mph 60 miles of it) to bleed the air out of the system. That next morning it was 28 degrees outside. Truck started and drove like it should when the systems work as they should. No issues. OK, where is the cold start issues? Right here. I let the truck sit for 2 days, yesterday was 53 degrees outside, went to start her and no start. Cycled the system several times, approximately 6 times and still no start. Plugged her in for about 30 minutes and she fired right up. What else could be causing this type of problem?

When I change the oil, I also drain the HPOP and change that oil also. I know some people say that is a snake oil fix, but it has made a difference on this truck when it comes to starting issues.

I checked the fuel pressure and when it was cold and running, it was 40 psi. When it was at operation temp, it bounced between 45 - 55 psi. Also had a leak on the filter cap. Got 1/8 of a turn on the cap to tighten it. Haven't check to see if it stopped the leak yet. These pressures seem low, what should they be? Has anyone done the "BB" trick to help a failing regulator? Could that be a fix for my low pressure until I can save for the proper parts?

Could a faulty/plugged IPR be causing these hard starts?

Open to any suggestions, comments, questions, etc. and would like to get this fixed.

Another issue... Brake pedal bleed down. The brakes will start off good and do great for normal driving, but if I press hard on the pedal, it will bleed down. It's almost like a timed reaction also. It will hold for a few seconds and then start to bleed off. I have never waited to see if I loose all braking power.
I have read that this is a common problem but have heard several fixes and none of them are cheap. I have put a new system on the truck. Being able to stop is just as important as being able to go. Here is what I have replaced:
Vacuum pump
master cylinder
brake booster (Auto parts store brand, have been told a zero loss is what I need?)
front steel lines
all 3 rubber lines (2 front and 1 rear)
front calipers and pads
Rear pistons and shoes
I have also removed the ABS for the rear brakes from the system and is no longer hooked into the hydraulic part of the system

Both these issues aren't real big problems, but would like to get them fixed.

Open to all comments. Please help.
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  #2  
Old 12-03-2012, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dajain View Post
I have a '95 PSD 4x2 (semantics but a correction none the less) with 245K miles on her. When I bought the truck, I got her for $2100 and knew it had issues. She was neglected by an oil field worker for a long time apparently. I have been getting her back together and every fix I have done has made an improvement. Here is what I have done over the last 2 years and some of the issues I have that I would like to get fixed.

With the cold weather here, I am having the same problem as a lot of people. Hard starts! But, last year I replaced all the glow plugs (6 of them were bad) and replaced the GPR which was bad also. Still had to plug it in if the temp dropped below 50. This year, I did some troubleshooting and decided I had several injectors that were acting up, missing at all rpm ranges, barely running when cold, etc. The injectors I installed are stock so there is no modifications. The truck is running tons better. The day after the install, it was 50 and it started without being plugged in. The night I took it to work (70 miles round trip, 75 mph 60 miles of it) to bleed the air out of the system. That next morning it was 28 degrees outside. Truck started and drove like it should when the systems work as they should. No issues. OK, where is the cold start issues? Right here. I let the truck sit for 2 days, yesterday was 53 degrees outside, went to start her and no start. Cycled the system several times, approximately 6 times and still no start. Plugged her in for about 30 minutes and she fired right up. What else could be causing this type of problem? Are you using an aftermarket anti-gelling additive for the fuel? Could be that your fuel is getting too think in the heads and not allowing the injectors to fire liquid atomized fuel.

When I change the oil, I also drain the HPOP and change that oil also. I know some people say that is a snake oil fix, but it has made a difference on this truck when it comes to starting issues. What oil are you using and weight? Synthedic is better if your area sees constant cold in the 30's-40's

I checked the fuel pressure and when it was cold and running, it was 40 psi. When it was at operation temp, it bounced between 45 - 55 psi. Also had a leak on the filter cap. Got 1/8 of a turn on the cap to tighten it. Haven't check to see if it stopped the leak yet. These pressures seem low, what should they be? Has anyone done the "BB" trick to help a failing regulator? Could that be a fix for my low pressure until I can save for the proper parts? Yes, do the FPR Shim Mod and see if the fuel pressure comes back up to the 55-70 psi when you check it. If it does then all you should need (if you want to replace to the correct parts, most people just leave the BB in there instead) to order is a California FPR replacement spring.

Could a faulty/plugged IPR be causing these hard starts? _Yeah_, but thick oil and fuel would be my first bet. Also chech the GPR again for full operation. Parts store GPR's don't work for very long. A Stancor is better suited for your truck then aftermarket stock replacement.

Open to any suggestions, comments, questions, etc. and would like to get this fixed.

Another issue... Brake pedal bleed down. The brakes will start off good and do great for normal driving, but if I press hard on the pedal, it will bleed down. It's almost like a timed reaction also. It will hold for a few seconds and then start to bleed off. I have never waited to see if I loose all braking power.
I have read that this is a common problem but have heard several fixes and none of them are cheap. I have put a new system on the truck. Being able to stop is just as important as being able to go. Here is what I have replaced:
Vacuum pump
master cylinder
brake booster (Auto parts store brand, have been told a zero loss is what I need?)
front steel lines
all 3 rubber lines (2 front and 1 rear)
front calipers and pads
Rear pistons and shoes
I have also removed the ABS for the rear brakes from the system and is no longer hooked into the hydraulic part of the system

All this is new and you still have brake bleed down?!? You may still have an air bubble in the Master Cylinder from its' bench bleeding process. Otherwise I'd lean on that when you were bleeding the system at the tires the person in the car could have over extended the pedal depth and cut up the wiper seal inside of the MC. When bleeding the brakes at the wheels the pedal should not be allowed to travel more then 2" (or 1" at the piston) otherwise internal damage may occur.

Both these issues aren't real big problems, but would like to get them fixed.

Open to all comments. Please help.

Please see above.
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  #3  
Old 12-03-2012, 03:08 PM
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Hey Big Fuel, Thanks for the great response!
I have been working constuction on my spare time, maybe that is why the 2x4 instead of the 4x2. lol

No Fuel antigel. The only thing I have put in the fuel is Sea foam to help clean the system.

I'm using Delco 14w40 motor oil. I'm in Carlsbad, NM and the temp is pretty mild. Here we are Dec. 3rd @ 5:00 PM and it's 75 degrees. It does get cooler in the AM (Duhh), but fluctuates greatly each week. I am still trying to flush out the sludge in the motor so really don't want to spend the money on synthetic yet. Maybe next oil change will go with 10W30 and see what happens.

Just spent $6 for a whole bottle of BB's. Will do that mod tomorrow and wait for the next cold morning. I'm sure the low fuel pressure might have something to do with my problem.

With the brakes, it would seem strange that I didn't bleed the MS 2x in a row, and I didn't bleed the original master cylinder. BUT, I have never heard of the "over extending the MS" I think the next time I work on the brakes, I will check that. One thing I just now remembered is that when I plugged the rear line (with the 1st replacement MS) the bleed off would not happen. Did not check this with the second MS. But that is why I started looking at the ABS, due to only happening on th erear brakes.

Thanks again for the reply and please feel free to give more options as you think of them.

Thanks again
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:22 PM
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If you didn't return the last MC for a core open it up and look inside. You will see that there is only so much machining that goes on in there and the two pistons are different sizes. If you over travel the rod the wiper seal gets a cut and this leads to the forward wiper seal bleeding back to the rear wiper seal which just lets the fluid go back into the reservoir. If the rear seal is the one getting cut up then it will leak into the booster.
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:36 PM
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I returned the old core, but since there is a lifetime warranty on the new, I will try replacing it again. Brakes 101 says this problem is master cyclinder and there is no computer hooked to my system anymore. I Guarantee my wife went to the floor with the pedal, and I didn't tell her not to. Like I said, Never heard of that before. Is that a ford thing?

Also, I read that each BB for the FP mod equals approx 9 PSI in gain. Isthat true? If so, I would need 2-3 BB's just ot get to the 55-70 psi that you recommend. I am thinking of trying 2 and go from there. What's your thoughts?
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:40 PM
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HHmmm, I haven't done the mod, I have E-Fuel, but to my knowledge you should only need one BB. I don't know that you can get more then one in there.

OBS FPR Shim and Gauge Install
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Old 12-03-2012, 04:01 PM
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Looking at the link, I guess I'll start with one and go from there. I do know I read 9 psi per BB and someone posted they had to put 2 in. Like you said, I'm not sure 2 would be easy to install.

I'll post once it is done and give fuel pressures with 1 & 2 & ... All I want is to be normal........Pressure! lol
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:14 AM
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OK, got 2 BB's in there and the pressure is 65 psi.

I first tried one BB and it went up to 50 psi, but then tried 2 and it wasn't too hard and I am happy with 65.

I'll check it for time to time and make sure it stays there.

It was 40 this morning and it started just fine before the BB mod, but I can't imagine the required pressure wounld hurt anything.

I'll let it sit now for a week or so and see what she does
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Old 12-04-2012, 10:19 AM
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Cool beans.
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Old 01-27-2013, 06:47 AM
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Here it is. Truck has been sitting for a week, 55 degrees outside, went to start the truck, tested the relay and voltage is good, let the plugs cycle for almost a minute and still no start.
55 shouldn't be a problem.
Anyone have a detailed troubleshooting guide they can send me?
Would really like to get this fixed.
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