95 cranking wont turn over but getting close

[zombiediesel]

so i thought the idm may be my problem but i discovered the number 8 maxi fuse was missing now i have power to pin 14 on the idm harness. tried cranking and it finally starting squirting oil out of the injector and dumping tons of white smoke out of the exhaust. it has a new cps. i had another stroker jump starting for 2 hours and cranked for 20-30 seconds and then wait 15 minutes to let batteries charge up. cranks really stong and tries to turn over just wont quite make it.

is there anything i should check. maxi fuse 22 is good and i took the fuel bowl heater out. could it just be that i had the oil and fuel lines off and the injectors out and its trying to clear all the air out of the lines and what not. last i did injector orings it took awhile to turn over but i dont remember taking 2 hours maybe i just have a bad memory lol. any input would be most appreciated

thanks jim

[Patrick Feeley]

Have you tried plugging in the block heater for a few hours prior to starting? Cheers!

[zombiediesel]

Most definitely did all night. Has a new gpr and glow plugs. And new development. A black liquidish substance came out the exhaust today can't tell if its fuel oil or water

[zombiediesel]

so was doing the poor mans buzz test and all for injectors on the drivers side click. all four on the passengers side do not. according to the instructions of poor mans buzz test no click means a wiring problem or bad solenoids. i test the wiring from idm harness to uvch right up to the connections to the injectors and they all check out fine. so im guessing bad solenoids on all 4 injectors on passenger side. is it plausible that all 4 go down at the same time. can i buy just new solenoids or do i have to buy all new injectors

[madpogue]

Swap an injector (or just the solenoid) from the driver's side with one of the supposedly bad ones on the passenger side. See if it stays inop, and/or if it still passes buzz on the driver's side. The IDM is known to shut down an entire side when there's an injector or wiring issue anywhere on that side. If the inop doesn't "follow" the swapped solenoids, then I'd say it's something else on that side.

Did you test the connections on the cover gasket itself? Did you re-do the poor-man's test with the cover off? There've been stories of the connections working fine with the cover off/loose, only to go cattywumpus when you torque it down.

[zombiediesel]

did the poor mans with the covers off tool the harnesses and gasket off and test them all individually and as a system. they all check out. tomorrow when ive got more time and daylight im gonna swap the solenoids and see what happens. i wish it was the gasket i have a lifetime warranty on that thing i dont feel like dropping hundreds on new solenoids lol.

[madpogue]

What brand of gaskets?

[zombiediesel]

Dorman. I know not the best but i have a lifetime warranty.

[madpogue]

Yeah, they're the ones known for flaky things like shorting out when you torque down the cover. Just for S&G, you could try swapping gaskets side-to-side, see if the problem follows or stays.

[zombiediesel]

Well i swapped yhe solenoids and none tested good and tgen i switched back the solenoids to where they work and still none test good. The wiring still checks out good. I think ive moved backwards. I wis there was an honest shop around here to run diagnostics but they all want to replace gpr and gps which are all new