Glow Plug Relay - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 09-20-2012, 12:09 PM Thread Starter
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Glow Plug Relay

Hi all looking for any input. I have a 96 F-350 and she is taking forever to start. White smoke puffing out in engine bay after the first attempt to start. By the third cycle of the key she will fire up and runs great. Replaced the glow plug relay but that didn't seem to do much. One side of relay has the full time 12volts from the battery and when I turn the key to the on position the other side of the relay shows zero volts. Checked the 30 amp fuse #22 and even swithed it with #21 but still no power to the other side of relay. Any ideas will be appreciated. Thanks


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1996 F-350
4X2 CC LB XLT
Auto, 204,550 miles
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post #2 of 7 Old 09-20-2012, 08:23 PM
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To check the relay, place your DVOM leads on the two large relay posts. With the key in the Wait-to-Start position (and up to about 1.5-2 minutes after), you will be reading the voltage drop across the relay. Any reading of more than 0.3V drop and the relay is bad. The contacts inside are supposed to rotate a bit each cycle so as to avoid getting burned in one spot. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

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post #3 of 7 Old 09-20-2012, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Patrick. Shouldn't both terminals show power if I test them with the volt meter by putting the ground lead to the battery negetive side and then positive lead to each terminal? Sorry for the late response but I just got in from work.


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1996 F-350
4X2 CC LB XLT
Auto, 204,550 miles
Banks Power Pack
DIY Tymar
FPR BB Mod
pyro, boost
muffler delete


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post #4 of 7 Old 09-21-2012, 09:41 AM
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One large terminal will always be hot. The other large terminal will only be hot when the key is turned to WTS (for about 1.5 minutes). If it has nothing on one, check to see if there is continuity across the small terminals with the small wires disconnected to see if the relay coil is open-circuited. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #5 of 7 Old 09-21-2012, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Feeley View Post
One large terminal will always be hot. The other large terminal will only be hot when the key is turned to WTS (for about 1.5 minutes). If it has nothing on one, check to see if there is continuity across the small terminals with the small wires disconnected to see if the relay coil is open-circuited. Cheers!
Hey Patrick. The one terminal has no power with the key in the WTS position. There is continuity between the small terminals with the wires disconected.


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1996 F-350
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Auto, 204,550 miles
Banks Power Pack
DIY Tymar
FPR BB Mod
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muffler delete


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post #6 of 7 Old 09-21-2012, 06:33 PM
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I should have put this in with the last post: Ok, now with the small wires disconnected and the key in WTS, one wire (not terminal the Red with Light Green Trace) should have 12v on it and the other (Purple with Orange Trace) should be grounded (it should go to ground when the key is turned from off to WTS since the PCM provides the switching to ground). Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #7 of 7 Old 09-23-2012, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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Hey Patrick. I tested the small wires and have zero volts on the red with light green srtipe. The other has no continuity between the negetive side of the battery and the other wire. I checked all the fuses I know of and have not discovered any chewed wires. Any other suggestions? Thanks, Mike

I traced the wires back to the main plug and the red with light green stripe has no continuity from the block to the end of wire. Other shows good. I will try a splice wire tomorrow. Off to work. Thanks

Ok splice wire worked thanks Patrick for all your advice.


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1996 F-350
4X2 CC LB XLT
Auto, 204,550 miles
Banks Power Pack
DIY Tymar
FPR BB Mod
pyro, boost
muffler delete


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Last edited by mike g; 09-25-2012 at 10:20 AM.
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