95 F250 won't start - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 06-21-2012, 01:54 PM
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95 F250 won't start

I have a 95 with about 130,000 on it and out of the blue it quit starting. I found the connector going into the valve cover on the drive side on the front of the engine was melted and thought that was it. Changed out the connector, the valve cover gasket, both UVCH, and the batteries and it kicked right over and ran great. I'm at work right now on a ship so my friend has been starting it about once a week and riding it around a bit for me. Last week he ran it with no problems. Yesterday he goes to take it for a drive and all it does is crank with no indication of it wanting to kick over. He tried it today again and it kicked over but within a few seconds it started missing real bad and then quit. If it is cranking the same way it was when the problem first started, the tach does jump and you see smoke out the pipe. He went to try it again and all it did was crank. I go home in a couple of days and was hoping to get some hints of where to start looking. I changed the connector and everything about a month ago when I was home. I don't think it could have anything to do with the HPOP since it ran just fine a week ago. I also changed the CPS, the oil is full, the HPOP is full, and a new fuel filter. It sounds totally electrical to me. The truck has the Banks Powerpack and it is chipped. All the fuses were good and I switched the relays around in the power distribution box under the hood. I had a bunch of stuff I needed to get done whe I got home for leave but it looks like getting the truck running will need to be first. Any help or insight would be great. I just ordered the factory supplement manual for the powerstroke. Thanks.
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Old 06-21-2012, 04:11 PM
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I'll say fuel pump or Pressure regulator is not keeping the line pressure in the 65 psi range. If it is a fuel pump and your computer savvy then it's almost a cost wash to up you truck to E-fuel.
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Old 06-21-2012, 05:36 PM
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Thanks for the input. Do you have any info about the electric fuel pump? Do you have any input on the best way to check the fuel pressure regulator?
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Old 06-21-2012, 07:55 PM
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For the e-pump:

Cheap E-Fuel Conversion! For $200 or less!! Write Up

The back of the fuel bowl has a schrader valve. If you don't mind wasting a tool you can use a tire gauge but it will make a mess and bounce a lot. Better to get a 1/4" ntp hose rated for fuel and a fluid filled gauge to calm the bounce. Have someone in the truck as you watch the fuel pressure.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:48 AM
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Thanks for the info. I'm going to check the fuel regulator and see what I get. Do you happen to know what pressure I should be seeing? On the regulator there looks like a plastic canister/cylinder on the bottom of it, is it another filter in there? Reason I ask, when I changed the fuel filter the thing was covered in like a slime almost. When this all started I found the wiring harness melted going into the front of the driver side valve cover. Everything acts to me like it is electrical. After changing the melted connector, the valve cover gasket and both UVCHs it started up and ran fine. Last week it ran fine and now it is just cranking. The WTS light comes on and goes off normal. The tach isn't jumping though. I got the Ford supplement for the 7.3 but it keeps refering you to look at the powertrain/emission control manual for testing things and I haven't been able to find the manual. I would like to check what sensors and stuff I can before I give up on it. Do you think it could have messed up the IDM? Is there a way to test for it without just trying a different IDM. Thanks for all your help so far.
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Old 06-26-2012, 11:48 AM
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Per Ford spec, you should be seeing at least 25 psi at 100 minimum RPM crank speed. There is another screen (sock-type) inside the black plastic canister on the regulator. Was the slime black and shiny? If so, it could be algae in the fuel. You might want to remove the chip and see if it will start without it (do that with the keys nowhere near the ignition!). The factory supplement is good for themechanical stuff, but having the EVTM (Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual) and the PCED (Powertrain and Emissions Diagnosis Manual) and nice to have as well. You would need the diagnostic capability to read trouble codes to use the PCED effectively however. Cheers!
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Old 06-26-2012, 12:07 PM
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Pressure in a good running system is 65PSI. 25-35 PSI during cranking I think Sorry for the fuzzy pic, had a hell of a time converting this to work.

Wondering if by cylinder you mean the micron screen housing. Yes, should be cleaned as well as all the slime. No tach huh? Looking more like a failed CPS or (hopefully not) a popped PCM.
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Old 06-26-2012, 01:26 PM
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Thanks for the input. The slime was kind of black and shiny somewhat. I work on a ship so I'm home for 4 weeks then gone for 4. I change the fuel filter every other oil change so it gets done every 6000, which takes me some time to get to. It is just so weird. I replaced the burnt connector and it ran fine twice and now all it does is crank. I should say the tach comes up to about 200 rpm's but doesn't jump higher like it is trying to catch. I'm going to try to open that filter up and see what it looks like. WTS comes on as per normal. I'm going to go through the check on the GB tech bulletin and remove the chip and see what happens. I might also open up the harness around the burnt up connector and see if there is something else damaged. I might also change out fuse 22 with another fuse in case it looks ok but is in fact bad. I had quite the to do list before I went back to work but getting the truck running again wasn't on it. Thanks for all the help and if you can think of anything else to check into let me know. I wish there was someone I knew with the same truck so I could try changing out the IDM and what not. I'm also going to check the IPR. Thanks.
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Old 06-28-2012, 12:33 PM
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Well I did what I could without a code reader. I ran through everything as if pulling the IPR trouble code. I went through all the test and it lead to PCM replacement. I also followed the steps in the GB tech bulletin about checking the injector wiring harness and all that checked out ok. She is at a shop in MD that basically only works on powerstrokes so atleast they have all the expensive parts lying around to check her out with and not have to start throwing parts at it. I'll let you know how it all makes out.
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:30 PM
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Sad to hear. Confirming a popped PCM is hard because you really don't want it to be that and will do anything to convince yourself that it isn't.


Lying in wait....
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