Basic HPOP Regulator questions - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 04-16-2012, 11:48 AM Thread Starter
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Basic HPOP Regulator questions

Hey guys sorry for the new guy question but can you tell me where the HPOP regulator is located and how difficult it is to change out. A little back ground of the issue. The truck is a 1996, 179k CC, SB, Auto, all stock except for a Tymar intake. The truck has been running very unreliably for the last 2 years. You never when its going to start or when its not. I can start it up let run, shut it off, and ten minutes later it just cranks. I have also noticed that its not idling quite right, not enough that someone else would notice but I do, almost like a slight miss. Its not enough to really see it on the tac. During a hunting trip last year I had a severe loss of power and a CEL came on. I had the code pulled and it was for the HPOP regulator. After doing some online research it sounds like this maybe the culprit. I saw on here that it can be cleaned or should I just replace it? The dealership here has one in stock & wants $265 for it.
Thanks in advance

Travis
96 F250 Crewcab shortbed 4x4
Tymar intake, Warn hubs, B&W Gooseneck and fifth wheel hitch, 285/75/16 Michelin A/T2's

09 Unlimited Jeep Rubicon
2" lift, 315/70/17 BFG At's, Warn 9000lb winch.

Trying to afford modifying 2 vehicles is tough!

IAFF Local 1596

Last edited by alpinhi; 04-16-2012 at 11:49 AM. Reason: grammer
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post #2 of 10 Old 04-17-2012, 11:43 AM
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I'd sure try cleaning it first.....stick your head over the top of the front of the engine, and look straight down....the little tin nut on the stob sticking out on the right front, down there under all those hoses and crap, is the nut that holds the solenoid on to the regulator....remove that nut, (3/4"), the solenoid will slide right off (disconnect wire plug) then take the appropriate size deep socket and break the IPR, (Injector Pressure Regulator) loose from the HPOP.....it has an o-ring to seal it to the body......unscrew and remove, (you will lose about a quart of oil)....clean it off-out good and re-install (with NEW o-ring) then pull the oil pressure sender out of the top of the reservoir and re-fill it with fresh oil (it's on the left side, with a wire plugged into the top)

I'd also remove and clean the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) on the side of the fuel filter, under brass plug ....take it out, there's a screen under it, clean, re-install....if those two things don't help, holler back....

'97 Centurion. F350 4x4 CCLB
Full Force 180cc Stage I's, D66, SRP-1.1, ARP, Banks IC, DIY E-Fuel, EBPV Del & Gut'd Ped., BD Exhaust Brake., SD IDM, HPX, BstFoolr, 4" DP - 4" exh,
6.0 Fan, 180 T-Stat, DIY Don.105006 AF, CCV Mod, BTS, W/ SD Trans Lines, Tru-Cool Max, PML Trans Pan, Bumper Mod, IssPro Gauges, Fluidampr, Mellings LPOP.....
Tuned by "The WildMan".
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post #3 of 10 Old 04-18-2012, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks that info helps, turns out I was looking in the wrong spot. Do you unhook and move the hoses out of the way or just snake a wrench down into there?

Travis
96 F250 Crewcab shortbed 4x4
Tymar intake, Warn hubs, B&W Gooseneck and fifth wheel hitch, 285/75/16 Michelin A/T2's

09 Unlimited Jeep Rubicon
2" lift, 315/70/17 BFG At's, Warn 9000lb winch.

Trying to afford modifying 2 vehicles is tough!

IAFF Local 1596
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post #4 of 10 Old 04-18-2012, 03:50 PM
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yes....you just about have to move the damn fuel filter housing outta the way - towards the back to get it out....( main reason I converted to e-fuel )....you will want new o-rings to re-insall it with too....
get them here :

http://www.dieselorings.com/index.php?page=details&prod=162&cat=10&group=5

'97 Centurion. F350 4x4 CCLB
Full Force 180cc Stage I's, D66, SRP-1.1, ARP, Banks IC, DIY E-Fuel, EBPV Del & Gut'd Ped., BD Exhaust Brake., SD IDM, HPX, BstFoolr, 4" DP - 4" exh,
6.0 Fan, 180 T-Stat, DIY Don.105006 AF, CCV Mod, BTS, W/ SD Trans Lines, Tru-Cool Max, PML Trans Pan, Bumper Mod, IssPro Gauges, Fluidampr, Mellings LPOP.....
Tuned by "The WildMan".
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post #5 of 10 Old 04-18-2012, 06:01 PM Thread Starter
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Ordered, Thanks! Ill let you know what happens.
Really appreciate the help!
Travis

Travis
96 F250 Crewcab shortbed 4x4
Tymar intake, Warn hubs, B&W Gooseneck and fifth wheel hitch, 285/75/16 Michelin A/T2's

09 Unlimited Jeep Rubicon
2" lift, 315/70/17 BFG At's, Warn 9000lb winch.

Trying to afford modifying 2 vehicles is tough!

IAFF Local 1596
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post #6 of 10 Old 04-23-2012, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
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New o ring kit came today & I got the IPR out. Should I disassemble the IPR to clean it? It looks like it unscrews, the o rings on it right now appear to be pretty hard and one has a slight crack. I thought that I read on here that IPR should have a screen on it, this one does not. I hope it didnt come off in the HPOP! I got the FPR out and cleaned also, it was completely clogged.

Travis
96 F250 Crewcab shortbed 4x4
Tymar intake, Warn hubs, B&W Gooseneck and fifth wheel hitch, 285/75/16 Michelin A/T2's

09 Unlimited Jeep Rubicon
2" lift, 315/70/17 BFG At's, Warn 9000lb winch.

Trying to afford modifying 2 vehicles is tough!

IAFF Local 1596
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post #7 of 10 Old 04-23-2012, 06:16 PM
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The early IPR's had the edge filter and the end of the IPR will look solid. The later ones did not have the edge filter and the end looks like a gun barrel. There is no "screen on any of them to come off (so no worries there). Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
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post #8 of 10 Old 04-23-2012, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks a relief, I got it apart and cleaned up. O rings didn't seem to be in bad shape and found no debris..

Sent from my phone, please excuse typos

Travis
96 F250 Crewcab shortbed 4x4
Tymar intake, Warn hubs, B&W Gooseneck and fifth wheel hitch, 285/75/16 Michelin A/T2's

09 Unlimited Jeep Rubicon
2" lift, 315/70/17 BFG At's, Warn 9000lb winch.

Trying to afford modifying 2 vehicles is tough!

IAFF Local 1596
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-30-2015, 08:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Feeley View Post
The early IPR's had the edge filter and the end of the IPR will look solid. The later ones did not have the edge filter and the end looks like a gun barrel. There is no "screen on any of them to come off (so no worries there). Cheers!
Does anyone know what build date is the cutoff for having or not having an edge filter? I've condemned my IPR on my 95 with IDS software based on similar symptoms, which has a 05/95 build date.

Thanks in advance!

Steve in Central CA

2003 F350 CCSB FX4 w/ 7.3L & 4R100, Factory Tech Valve Body, DP Tuner, AIS Intake, & Banks 4" Monster Exhaust 223K MI

2002 F350 SCSB 4x4 OFF Road w/ 7.3 & 6 speed - DP Tuner, AIS Intake, MBRP 4", 218K MI

1995 F250 RCLB 7.3 & 5spd. All stock for now. 282K

78 Bronco, 72 F100 4x4, 72 F250, 86 Bronco, 78 Mercedes Benz 240D
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post #10 of 10 Old 09-30-2015, 08:35 AM
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The transitions are based on engine serial number vice a build date. The edge-filter IPR would have been on engines with serial numbers up to 187099. Engines from 187100 and on would have the edge filter in the HPOP. On my 97, there is a sticker on the front of the HPOP Reservoir with "444023" in fairly large numbers and a barcode below them. That is my engine serial number. These stickers are usually long gone, however. Stamped into the block on a machined surface just aft of where the oil filter/oil cooler header bolts to the block is "74J U2U 444023 *" which ignoring the 74J U2U and * (or punch mark, whatever it is) leaves the "444023". I had to scotchbrite the area clean and use a flashlight at the correct angle to be able to read it. Cheers!

1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed

SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.

Last edited by Patrick Feeley; 09-30-2015 at 08:39 AM. Reason: Added serial number location info
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