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Injector 3 open to ground..HELP!!!

11K views 61 replies 9 participants last post by  psdstrkD95 
#1 · (Edited)
Hey guys,

I've been living in a nightmare ever since I accidentally put gasoline in my 96 powerstroke. Here's what I've done:
-Dropped then drained tank, fuel lines, and bowl and replaced fuel filter
-filled with fresh diesel and lucas additive
-replaced fuel pump (old one was week)

at this point, sometimes it just turns and doesn't seem to fire at all and other times it idles for a while then the whole right bank shuts off..only code showing is #3 injector open to ground. Ran perfectly before I put gasoline in it by mistake. I'm checking the UVCH connection and wiring asap..anything else I'm missing? Any tips to diagnose this code or insight what the problem could be (maybe injector solenoid)?

Some more details:
-I replaced my IDM with remanufactured unit last year
-I had #4 injector tested and it came back ok (before shop told me #3 was out)
-starter and both batteries 1 yr old
-oem glow plugs 6 months old, relay age unknown

Please help me get my truck back on the road! All help is appreciated!
 
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#2 ·
Check your injector solenoid to make sure it is not open-circuited (should be 2-3 ohms IIRC). Cheers!
 
#3 ·
I know I can check it at the idm connector, but is there a better way?

Update: got all bolts off valve cover except the B*tch in the back. Tried starting beforehand, doesn't sound like its even firing. What should I check/try in a turning but non firing motor? I think the shop I took it to f*cled it up :(
 
#4 ·
You can check them at the valvecover connections. Each connector/gasket has five pins. The outermost pins on each connector are for the glowplugs. The center pin is common to two injectors. If you probe the center pin and the adjacent pins to it you can measure each solenoid. Cheers!
 
#6 · (Edited)
Update: finally got some free time to check resistance. Cylinders 1 & 3 injector solenoids showed a perfect 2.9 ohms. Now I'm stumped..the shop told me #3 injector solenoid was short to ground so I should've seen infinite ohms on #3. Tried starting again and after turning for about 5-10 seconds with 0 firing she suddenly started firing a bit and came close to starting but won't hold idle once I let off cranking with the key. Gonna pull valve cover to check for bad wiring I suppose.

Anyone have any more ideas to help me get back on the road?
 
#7 ·


I'd venture to guess that's my wiring harness is f*cked...:rofl:

Anyone ever seen a wiring failure this bad? Wtf! Just don't wanna shell out a couple bills for a new harness if it'll just spontaneously combust like this one did...

Check the rest of my wiring and it seems to be ok. Hopefully this'll get me back on the road..
 
#8 ·
That is a problem. Haven't seen it happen to often but when it does it's with about the same results.
 
#9 ·
it happened on one of my trucks, throw a new one youll be fine, seems bad glowplugs can cause this too so might want to replace them while your in there
 
#11 · (Edited)
I've seen harnesses look like that before. Normally you'll find the adjacent glow plug out. My theory is that as glow plugs go out the ones that are working are pulling more juice, causing overheating in the wiring connections, especially if the terminals have some age on them and aren't tight.

At least check the glow plugs and replace the valve cover gasket/UVCH harnesses and you should be fine.
Thanks for the input guys, UVCH and gasket are already on their way (ebay). I just replaced all glowplugs with Motorcraft gp's barely 6 months ago. would gasoline ruin the gp's that quick? (I'll try pulling one to inspect). My stupid mistake keeps getting more and more expensive..hope I never make this mistake again.

PS, can anyone recall the size of socket I'll need for gp's?
 
#10 ·
I've seen harnesses look like that before. Normally you'll find the adjacent glow plug out. My theory is that as glow plugs go out the ones that are working are pulling more juice, causing overheating in the wiring connections, especially if the terminals have some age on them and aren't tight.

At least check the glow plugs and replace the valve cover gasket/UVCH harnesses and you should be fine.
 
#12 ·
10 mil deep. I would think that if gas got sprayed on a hot glow plug that the results would not be good.
 
#14 ·
You can just splice in a new pigtail for the harness, so don't buy a whole new one! Use a 10mm deepwell, 1/4" drive socket to break the plugs loose, then use a piece of fuel line to spin them the rest of the way out and remove them. Cheers!
 
#15 ·
Update: checked cyl 3 gp and looks ok. Might check cyl 1 just to be sure.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Update: installed uvch, batteries charging so moment of truth coming soon! The new uvch injector connectors suck, not a fan of those cheap metal clips...
 
#17 ·
The bail wire clips are better than the plastic ones that get brittle and break off! Cheers!
 
#18 ·
Yea, it's not so bad once it's clipped down. But clipping it down is a beotch cus the clip wants to pop out of its pivot hold..had to hold it in with pliers while pushing.

gonna try firing her up after work today...wish me luck!
 
#19 ·
Update: had to crank her a good 8-10 seconds then she fired right up. Ran great on all cylinders for a minute, then it sounded like it lost a couple cylinders or a bank, then died. Pulled valve cover and made sure all connectors were on tight, no fried wires. Then checked fuel bowl-Completely empty yet tank is quarter-full. Filled up fuel bowl w/ fresh diesel then tried starting again. Cranked about 10-15 sec and batteries lost juice. So now I've got 2 bad batteries and a non-running truck :(

There were no fuel leaks that I could see. Gonna try charging batteries and starting again. I don't know what to do, it wouldn't die from dead batteries would it? Idk wtf else to do, tips are appreciated.
 
#20 ·
If the fuel bowl was empty then you have a fuel delivery problem. Is the fuel gauge fairly accurate? Maybe add fuel to that tank or switch to the other tank. If it only ran for a minute the alternator sure didn't have much chance to charge the batteries especially since the glow plugs where probably still on.
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the response. I had fully charged the batteries yesterday. I agree with you about fuel delivery...just boggled what it could be though. I've run that gauge to E and still had enough fuel to limp to a gas station before, it's pretty accurate. The shop did replace the mechanical fuel pump with a new oem unit..dunno how anyone could f*ck that up so I'm ruling it out for now (can't really test it either).
 
#22 ·
Hate to say it but it is possible that the fuel pump screwed up.
 
#24 ·
Pull the filter out and get someone to crank on it. It should start filling up the bowl rather quick. If it is, put the filter back in, then hold the shcrader valve open on the side of the filter housing while still cranking on it. Fuel should shoot out of there rather quick. If you have a fuel pressure gauge this is where you would attach it to see fuel pressure.
 
#25 ·
Good idea with the schraeder valve, I was gonna try the other method you suggested. What I don't get is how a shop could f*ck up a mechanical fuel pump install..can't think of anything else it could be though. Gonna check it out maybe tonight, been busy as hell lately...
 
#27 ·
You would hope not but someone (can't remember if it was here or another forum) had a pump plunger break.
 
#28 ·
Well that's what pisses me off most. I was in the middle of moving to my new house when this all happened (putting gas in the tank) so I didn't have my tools with me at the time and just wanted it running asap. So I figured I'd just bite the bullet and take it to a shop to fix. BIG MISTAKE. They monkeyed around for 2 weeks and still couldn't get it running. They replaced my fuel pump because I supposedly wasn't getting enough fuel psi.. I didn't believe them but at that time I was desperate to get it running again so I told em to just replace it and now it still doesn't run. And I STILL had to pay for it, the guy wouldn't even give me the owner's phone number to complain!

So fed up, I toed it back to my house (since I moved and now have my tools) where it's sitting now. I made sure to ask for my old pump back to make sure they replaced it (even though new one obviously looks new). So There are 0 miles on this new pump and like I said, it ran perfectly for 1 minute yesterday until it choked out and died (ran out of fuel I'm guessing). So I don't understand...how sh*tty of a shop do you have to be to screw up a fuel pump install? No way I'm taking it back there to demand they fix it..they'd just screw it up worse! Lesson learned, only I work on my vehicles from now on.
 
#29 ·
Well tried starting again, now just fires in a rythym but doesnt start. fuel bowl doesn't fill up with fuel after I crank it, so I guess pump is bad? Just weird considering I got her to fire up and ran great for a minute. My old pump plunger is still intact, so that's a good sign that the shop didn't break it off and leave it. I guess I just have to replace the brand new fuel pump cus I'm out of ideas
 
#31 ·
If you have a helper and a air compressor have someone try to start the truck while you pressurize the tank your trying to pull from. You only need maybe 3-5 psi in the tank not any more or you risk rupturing the tank. If you have a leak under the truck this will help you find it also. I guess what I'm trying to say is check for leaks first and if there are none try starting the truck.
 
#32 · (Edited)
^^not a bad idea but I don't have an air compressor. It's on the wishlist but household essentials sort of took precedence. Thanks for the idea though, maybe I can borrow a buddy's.

Just did some more research. According to this guy, the fuel bowl will not fill up with very much fuel when the filter is removed (which makes sense) I have a 96 Ford powerstroke that will not start. When I turn - JustAnswer
Maybe I'll try cranking with fuel bowl drain open, but filter and cap in place. Either that or I guess I need to get my hands on a fuel psi gauge and see what it puts out when cranking. From my research it looks like I need between 10-20psi cranking. Other ideas are appreciated.

I also tried unplugging the ICP sensor and cranking to see if it'd start, but no luck. Check engine light came on while cranking when unplugged. No CEL when plugged in.

EDIT: Just came across this helpful site - http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/tech.htm

As he recommends, gonna try using the vacuum gauge at the fuel pump supply (not sure exactly where that would be though). This'll take a lot of the guesswork out of the equation. Also gonna check glowplug ohms while I'm at it.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Update: couldn't find the correct fitting for schrader valve in 3 stores so ordered online. Injector solenoids all measured good from idm connector. Made sure all fuel line couplers were tight underneath. Rubber fuel lines are cracked...this wouldn't cause a problem would it?

Also, if I'm measuring vacuum from fuel supply side of pump, would that be the fuel line at the bottom of fuel pump towards turbo? (not pictured)

Tried checking glowplug resistance from valve connector center pin to outside pin and came up with nothing. Does this gp look ok?

That's completely wiped off with a rag.
 
#34 ·
Your not going to get any reading going from the glow plug to the inside pin. The inside pin is just the common ground for the injector solenoids. You need to check resistance from the glow plug terminal to ground. I don't think the issue is with the glow plugs are anything else at this time. It's obviously not making fuel pressure so why not investigate that first?

I'm still fuzzy on when it quit making fuel pressure or when the pump was replaced. You had the pump replaced, it ran for awhile, then you had the wiring issues, now you fixed that and went to start it only to find it not building fuel pressure?
 
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