97 Powerstroke fuel pump/filter/line? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 02-17-2012, 07:55 AM
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97 Powerstroke fuel pump/filter/line?

So I pick up the truck from a body shop because they were pulling the frame. (Hit a 07 Focus when he slid into our lane and bent the frame horn) I start the truck at the shop and the fuel gauges both read way past full, like they aren't working, but I left it with both tanks half full. We were having a small problem with the rear tank sensor so I didn't think anything of it. I get 2 miles down the road and the fuel filter light comes on and it dies. Luckily I can get into an Advanced Auto and change the fuel filter. Problem is the filter canister is empty so I take out the filter and start cranking and the canister won't fill up. I'm think it's a fuel pump or valve from the tanks. I haven't looked under it yet but I will this weekend. I'm wondering if they pulled off a wire or pinched the fuel line when doing the frame pull. Any suggestions?
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Old 02-18-2012, 02:01 PM
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Got into it deeper today and found the "diesel fuel tank selector" fuse keeps blowing. I got some fuel pressure after putting in a new fuse but I blew 2 more fuses. The solenoid must be going bad. Would this cause the fuel to stop at that selector? Shouldn't the fuel pump still pull fuel through it?
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:58 AM
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It doesn't make any sense. The selector should still allow the fuel to go through whichever it is selected to. I say that because its obvious that there isn't power going to the solenoid when the truck is off just to keep the valve in position. And when I customized my fuel system, you'd be surprised how fast you will get soaked with diesel when you pull the supply hose off the steel line (after the selector). That was both with the valve electrical connector disconnected too.

You should trace from the tank forward to find out what the issue is. What I would do is:

Look at your selector. There are six lines that go to it. They connect using a Ford quick disconnect, which doesn't require a special tool. Grab some plieres or a flat tip screwdriver, or the wife's long nails, and pick off the supply line quick disconnect retaining clip. Then pull the quick connect off and oh, make sure you have a drip pan underneath with cardboard under that. It should constantly flow out. The quick disconnect that you want is, as I remember, above the return.

There are no fuel pumps in the fuel tanks, which is what I gathered from your post... Just check where I said, and then you'll know if the problem is before the selector or after the selector. I don't know why your fuse would keep blowing. The harness is easy to trace to look for perhaps a short.
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:46 AM
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I finally got a chance to work on the truck. I checked the wires going to the selector valve and they appear to be ok and the resistance for the fuel gauges is in the correct range. I bought a new fuel selector switch and that didn't fix the problem. I'm going to have someone flip the switch so I can listen to the selector valve to see if selenoid is working. Going to tear into deeper next weekend. Still not getting fuel to the engine.
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:56 PM
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Maybe some part of the hard line between the selector and the lift pump got kinked in the collision?
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Old 03-23-2012, 09:55 PM
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Double check those grounds! If they pulled the frame then make sure everything is reconnected where it should be.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:09 AM
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I pulled off the fuel line on the engine side of the fuel selector valve and put it in a tank of diesel. It started right up. There is something stuck in that valve or it's shorted out. I'm going with shorted out since it kept blowing the fuse. Now the problem is I can't find the correct part at any local stores or on the internet. Everything I'm finding are universal parts. I'm going to call the dealership on Monday to find the part.
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:06 AM
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I bypassed the fuel selector valve and she started right up. I put a jumper wire on the fuel selector wiring harness and the fuel gauge is working. Atleast I have one tank and a working gauge. Called Ford and the valve is $330, cheapest on Ebay is $200 and cannot find a used one.
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:01 AM
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Hmm, this would be something of a "Hail Mary", but you might try this - disconnect all the supply (out and both ins) from the selector, turn the key to RUN, switch the switch to Front, and blow some compressed air into the outlet. Flip the switch to Rear and blow the air again. Maybe something's caught in there that has to be blown back out through whichever path (front or rear inlet) it came in from. Worst case, you trash the valve, which is where you are now anyway.
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Old 04-21-2012, 09:23 AM
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I guess when you really think about it, getting the Ford selector isn't all that bad of an idea. Just think of other components that cost so much more to replace, and it dwarfs the 330 bucks. That's how I usually rationalize buying from Ford.

Also, that selector may not be around forever(many parts for these trucks are obsolete) so buying it now might be a good idea.

I also know that online wrecking yard searches can yield selectors for dirt cheap.

You've had enough drama with that selector! Reward yourself with a new one lol
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