I read a bunch of recent cold start posts here and think they might be relevant but my symptoms differ a little than others so I am making a new post.
The my truck is a real B to start in under 40 degrees and when it does get going it is light on power and lots of white smoke until the block gets warm. Also, I have a TW 6 pos chip and on my typical setting (street race) it will dump black smoke if I coast then get into the throttle a bit, when I set it down to economy it is not nearly as bad of an issue. Once it is good and hot it runs good though it does smoke a little more in the colder temps even after the block is warm compared to when it is warmer than 40 degrees out.
I just replaced my relay with a stancor (old stock one was dead) and all new glow plugs(old one seemed OK after I tested them once removed but half were showing bad when tested in the truck, turns out one wasn’t even plugged in). Also replaced both batteries thinking that all this would solve my starting issue without needing to plug in at temps under 40 but didn’t do the trick… the truck does sound different now when I turn it over cold so I think I am making progress, also it starts better at 40 and at 20 I can get it started if I crank for 20 minutes and cycle glow plugs where before it wouldn’t come close.
I am pretty sure my fuel bowl heater is out as I popped the bowl lid after cranking and cycling for 15 minutes at 20 degrees and the fuel was about as thick as latex paint and the fuel bowl was cold to the touch. I need to check the fuel bowl heater to see if it is working but after reading a few posts here the HPOP or injectors may be failing or even the starter. The truck runs great and starts great in any temp over 40 or 50 and gets between 15-20 mpg. No shudder or loss of power on startup unless it is cold. Could the fuel bowl heater be my only issue? The exhast smoke at different temps makes me think it is a fuel temp issue but I am a total amateur. Looking for input. Thanks, Donny
There was a member who recently replaced their started and said it was a whole new animal when starting in cold temperatures. It was a night and day difference and helped BIG time.
Some people just have to keep their trucks plugged in at all times just to make cold starts that much easier.
Thanks for the response. Not ready to put a new starter, sticks or HPOP in as I only have the cold start issues when I head out of town and the truck is an occasional driver. I will keep chipping away at it and see what solves the problem, int eh mean time I will keep the 100' extension cord in the truck.
I will cycle the glow plugs for 2 minutes, reset then another 2 minutes then turn it over, some times just 2 min sometimes 3 sets of 2 min +/-. I have a lot of opportunity to mix it up when it is under 20 degrees. The last time I tried I wen for 30 minutes then gave up and plugged in. Lots of white smoke!
If you're running mutliple 2 minute GP cycles, chances are you're running the batteries down to the point where they're having trouble turning over the starter.
Even in 10* I'll give my truck 60-90 seconds max and then try turning it over. 9 times out of 10 this is all it takes, and I've got 2 burnt out plugs that I'm aware of.
Definitely get that fuel bowl heater taken care of. Even with a perfectly functioning GP system, batteries, and starter thick fuel will kill you at cold start.
you say your fuel was thick when cold?? I'd say that's your problem. Get some diesel 911 in there to start it then get some winter fuel and maybe thin your current tank with a gallon or 2 of kerosene
+1; Nowadays, diesel should never look that thick. The fuel bowl heater was designed in at a time in history when fuel quality was not nearly as good as it is today. Good winter fuel plus an anti-gel like PS white-bottle should keep this from happening in the first place. 911 should take care of the current sitch. Maybe because it's an occasional driver, it's still running on summer fuel?
Problem with recommissioning the fuel bowl heater is that it's the thing that can fry out, taking fuse #22 with it, thus disabling the PCM.
And +1 on the GPs; the full 2 minutes is for post-start warm-up. It shouldn't take anywhere near that much to start it, no matter how cold. We just did a cold start last Saturday AM, <10F, a mile from the nearest electrical outlet, gave 'er 30, maybe 40 seconds on the GPs, a few extra seconds on the starter and she lit right up, albeit with a romp.
In 10 degrees you shouldn't need that fuel bowl heater because your fuel shouldn't be gelled at that point. I keep a jar of fuel with me so I can always see if there's a chance of gelling when it's really cold and I've never gotten it to with winter fuel and power service even 10 below 0.
Agree completely. In the O.P. he said his fuel was as thick as latex paint...sounds like its gelled to me. Probably a combination of bad/old fuel...but a heater would help facilitate things.
good advice guys. Most of the time the fuel is either bought in Los Angeles or the last time I got it at indian reservation station out side of Independence. It is bought during the winter months but not sure of which stations carry a winter blend. BTW, my front tank took 22 gallons from bone dry and my mpg both times I filled there was sheet... I suspect the pumps may be set in their favor, I've never gotten more than about 20 and change into either tank, any of you gotten 22 gallons into a tank? Next time I will make sure to take on some fuel in the mountains in an empty tank and switch over a few miles before I shut her down. Diesel is almost a $1/ gallon more at the stations way up in the mountains where I go. Next I'll try one of those fuel additives if that doesn't work.
Sounds like fixing the fuel bowl heater if it is broken is a bad idea? I may try to fix it and keep an extra fuse on hand. If the fuse blows I will unplug the heater.
The geography is a little unclear ("Independence", where?), but if you drive anywhere where it's 20F, don't buy fuel in Los Angeles. It's likely they never dispense winter fuel.
Fuel tank sizes vary with cab/bed combo, but IIRC, the biggest are 19-20 gallons. Either you're running a LOT "up the pipe", or the Weights and Measures g-men should be visiting that station.... More relevant, you really shouldn't be running either tank that low anyway; the bottom 1/4 tank should always be considered an "emergency reserve".
Good advice, I will buy fuel in one tank in the colder climates and use that in the cold.
Is there an issue running the truck dry then switching to another. I have done it a few times, maybe three now and it does take a while to repower, like 10-20 seconds, but I make sure I am on a lonely road going hwy speed and no problem yet. Am I doing damage to the engine? Independence, CA... between Lone Pine and Big Pine. It is cold weather but not supper cold. I am sure it gets down to below freezing consistently there adn much lower within a 20 minute drive.
The G-men may not have much to say on reservation land, not sure... I did look all over the pump the second time I came back for a weights and measures sticker you see at all gas station pumps in CA and there was none. MAybe that is how they can sell gas so cheap! I assume they still have to charge road taxes but not sure.
I got 13mpg on my first fill up there, all hwy. The next fill up I was up over 20. I was driving down hill more but not that much more. I fill the tank until I can see fuel 3-4" from the cap. My truck has the typical issue of foaming gas and poor venting so if you stop when the nozzle clicks you are about 2-5 gallons short of a full tank depending on the nozzle sensor. I just fill the last few gallons real slow so I can be sure I have a full tank. Donny
I got 22 in once when I ran it dry on my front tank
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