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Truck (St. Louis MO) going to the dealer (I know itís going to hurt), stop me if you
Thanks for reading my long post and thanks in advance for any suggestions. Erwin
95 7.3 manual , with 96 computer. I tried everything I can and Iím really cold and tired. Made appointment to bring her in this Thursday. Their rate: $185 minimum to check it out, $125/Hr for trouble shooting, any parts they put in is mine! (of course the sales lady told me that their mechanic is very competent). Iím afraid that at the end of day, Iíll get lots of spare parts (ECU, IDM, IPR, etc.).
If you agree that she should go, anybody has a good Powerstroke mechanic shop in the area that you can recommend? Iím willing to cough up good amount of money ($1000 maybe) to pay for the labor, the parts that causing the problem. Iím just nervous about trusting someone in the dealership replacing major parts according to his ďbest judgmentĒ.
It started to cut out occasionally (all RPMrange) a few months ago. I kind of ignored it since I can still drive it w/o being stalled (beauty of a clutch vs. auto). It got progressively worse to a point (now) that I do not want to take her out anymore. While itís sitting, it can run just fine for hours (nice idle) or cut out every second. It will start right up no matter what. If I keep the rpm at around 2000, it will recover most of the time after the rpm drop.
AE scan shows HPOP pressure drops after rpm drop. Injector buzz test passes ever time and sounds right. Cylinder contribution test passes easily. No codes except the MAP.
Here is my capacities: AE scanner, good multimeter, good mechanical and electronic knowledge,
Here is what I have done:
1. Fresh Motorcraft oil a week ago. (engine runs good for two days after that. I thought that I fixed it). The oil in it was good generic oil (no anti foaming agent?). It did look foaming when I drained it. My big mistake using oil for modern diesel oil!
2. IPR rebuilt (o-rings, seal), everything look just right
3. runs the same with IP sensor unplugged
4. Have 4 new CPS on hand (3 gray, 1 blk), not a difference.
5. CPS wires checked out: continuity to ECU terminal good and no short to ground
6. When itís running well, wiggle-checked all harnesses, connectors, plugs, no difference
7. Opened up the IDU, no water, no corrosion, all look fine inside. Tapped, twisted (lightly) the IDU board while running well, no differences. (I know itís 110V, I was very careful running it with the IDU board w/o the alum box)
8. Did not take the ECU out (harder than I thought). Only checked the ECU connectors visually.
9. Fuel bowl out and cleaned, good fuel pressure while running (60 psi)