Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Tehachapi, CA
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You can do it without dropping the pan (which requires removing the engine). There have been posts in other forums on how-to (I'll look for them). Cheers!
Added in edit: Here's some info from another site:
Originally Posted by zpilgeram
When mine started leaking I just got a new o-ring from ford and did it the rite way. You don't have to pull the pan. Take the dipstick tube loose up at the valve cover unscrew the big 2" nut down at the oil pan and slide the nut up the tube and take it off. Slide the o-ring down the tube,work it through the hole in the oil pan and work it onto the threaded section of the dipstick where the big nut goes. Put the big nut back on and reattach the dipstick tube at the valve cover and your good to go. The whole job took about 30 minutes to do.
Take the starter off for better access.
I used a small pair of needle nose vice grips to hold the inner portion while I cleaned everything. I slid the new O-ring over the vice grips needle-nose before grabbing the inner piece (so I didn't have to stretch the O-ring over the vice grips). I didn't bother with any sealant, just used the new O-ring. It has been bone dry for 2+ years since doing it.
1997 F250 SC 4x4, E4OD, 4.10 LS, Basically Stock, Relocated Block Heater Plug, External Trans Filter, Tru-Cool Max, I/C Mounted but not Plumbed
SOLD - 1994 F350 CC DRW 2WD PSD, 5 Speed, 4.10 LS, SBC Con-O, Baldwin Filter, Tymar HPX Hose, DPPI DP, Bilsteins, $12 AIC, Coolant Filter, Explorer Overhead Console, A-Pillar w/ISSPRO Black Ice, EV Boost, and EV Pyro, Modified Pedestal, Gutted EBPV.
Last edited by Patrick Feeley; 11-29-2011 at 11:56 AM.
Reason: Added more info