hey guys i need some help. i got a 96 f250 manual trannie with 276000 miles. it has been running a little rough, and has lost power.when it starts it smokes pretty good for a few minutes. when warm at idle its got a rough idle. and on the highway it just doesnt feel smooth anymore. without a load on it it still pulls hills pretty good but put just a small load on it and it lays down.i know i need to put a turbo on and that is on order but i dont think it has to do with the rough idle and smoke. everything is stock as in there is no performance upgrades,stock turbo stock size injectors. so if i could get some advice on where to start i would be thankful.
Take your oil filler cap off, flip it over and set it on top of the hole. Does blow by coming out of the valve cover knock it off or just move from engine vibration?
I have acess to a innova scan tool, cheaper one and purchased through oriellys, there is no check engine light. How do I check the injection control pressure and I can test the fuel pressure tomorow. What should the psi read for the icp and the fuel pressure.
Those cheaper scan tools will do you no good with these trucks. You need a snap on or similar scanner, AE, or a ScanGauge. I have a ScanGauge and it's great, definitely one of the best things I've purchased for my truck.
I got a buddy that's got a snap on that im sure I could use. What should I look for when I put it on the scanner.also how do I test the injection control pressure.
With a snap on scanner I'm not sure, I've never used one. But you'll just display the ICP psi parameter, then crank the truck and watch the reading while cranking. You need to get 500+ psi for the truck to run. Double check for codes, there can still be codes stored even if there is no CEL illuminated. Then run a buzz test, once again, I don't know what the method is for doing this on a snap on scanner, on my scan gauge I just select the controls menu, select the buzz test, key on engine off, then start the test. It will buzz all injectors at once, then each one separately, listen for one that sounds weaker than the others. Run a contribution test, same deal there except key on engine running. Contribution test takes a lot longer to run and the truck needs to be up to operating temp, with the AC off. Run the test three times in a row. P1111 means it passed the test (ScanGauge displays P1111 after each test is passed, don't know for snap on).
Well I checked the icp and it was reading 580ish and did a buzz test on the injectors, no codes all systems pass. About to check fuel pressure at the regulator.
On the side of the filter housing there is a schrader valve, that's where you test it. Now I did test mine it did read 40 to 50 psi but was bouncing back and forth between 40 and 50 fairly rapidly.
There will be some bounce but between 40 to 50 is too much bounce. Inside the fuel regulator assembly is a screen and a small tube filter screen along with orifices etc. A thorough cleaning and change the o rings , check the regulator spring. The spring can't be ordered at Ford supposedly discontinued. There are some sites that have the spring, but at $16 to $21 per spring plus shipping , not for me . I found a 5 pack of springs at a local hardware store for $2.49 , gave me 52 psi and I have 4 spares. Check out this link for a detailed rehab of the fuel bowl. This cleaning along with changing a weak fuel pump , put the power back in my neighbors '95 OBS.:woot: http://dieselorings.com/docs/OBSFuelBowlRebuild.pdf
Oh yeah duh!. I dot think i have a tester tho. hmm.. what were your symptoms again?? got a video of it
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