7.3 turns over but does not run - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:18 AM
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7.3 turns over but does not run

Well, I have 1997 7.3 had since new, minor issues thru the years but two weeks ago, truck was sitting in my garage for a week while getting "body work" done and oil pan repainted. The truck turns over put does not run or start. Checked fuses, batteries, fuel, and HPOP reservoir all good. Has new style cam sensor. Replaced fuel filter, and cam sensor to start no dice. Ohmed out valve cover harness to glow plugs and injectors. All injectors were good, but two glow plugs are open cylinder 1 + (I believe) 6 (one each for both banks). If I have two bad harness or glow plugs the truck should still start? Right? Last drive truck ran fine no issues. I put my old PC with Autotap on it on the truck and no DTC codes or other codes come up except for disconnecting the batteries. My software doesn't have the ability to do the buzz test. Also when starting the engine turns any where from 100 to 200 RPMs by gauge or software. IDM was replaced a few years back due to a shorted valve harness. Another thing I notice the throttle sensor per my software was at 10% and Barometric sensor was 15 inHg. So, either my IDM is bad or is the two glow pugs the problem. Hope to check the injector signal this week and glow plug power to plugs is good (I can hear the relay trun on and off).
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:22 AM
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plug it in to eliminate the GP's causing no start
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianstew View Post
plug it in to eliminate the GP's causing no start
Not to be an idiot, plug it in? My weather been in the 80's 90's last two weeks. Oil temp is reading 85.3 when I have tried to start it, but I'll give it a try. It does cost to much except electricity.

Last edited by hitthepacecar; 07-25-2011 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 07-25-2011, 10:41 AM
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I see your point......but it just eliminates or points to problems. Its just the first thing i always do in a no start situation.
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:18 PM
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Could it be the fuel bowl heater shorted?
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Old 07-25-2011, 04:34 PM
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What sort of "body work" did you have done? It didn't involve welding did it? Just curious if that had anything to do with it.

No, two bad glow plugs shouldn't have anything to do with it not starting. Even if the glow plugs weren't working at all it would probably start after cranking on it enough, with warm ambient air temps. Or it should be white smoking like crazy.

Do you have any way to moniter ICP pressure? Is it smoking at all when cranking on it?
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Old 07-26-2011, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by justinmix View Post
What sort of "body work" did you have done? It didn't involve welding did it? Just curious if that had anything to do with it.

No, two bad glow plugs shouldn't have anything to do with it not starting. Even if the glow plugs weren't working at all it would probably start after cranking on it enough, with warm ambient air temps. Or it should be white smoking like crazy.

Do you have any way to moniter ICP pressure? Is it smoking at all when cranking on it?
Well no welding during body work, just sanding, extending riddle can primer and painted. And fixed leaking windshield, but truck was run during this.

No smoke at all cranking the truck over, I checked the back pressure valve on turbo and it closed per the diagram in Fords Diagnostic book. Also the exhuast is not block getting "air" out of exhaust when cranking it over.

Last night tried the idea of plugging truck in and waiting a hour before cranking it over and trying to start it, but no dice.

I hope to check the Injector drive voltage on harness this week or weekend to see if the IDM is good or bad or if the harness is bad to the IDM.

Another option is, which don't like doing to a working truck that I don't own, is to swap the IDM module with my brother's 01 7.3 powerstroke. To see my IDM makes his truck run, since all my injectors ohm out correctly.

The worst thing could be a harness issue to a sensor, but I get no codes. The only thing I haven't found to try is the exhaust back pressure sensor to see if the truck starts. If any can help find it because all the diagrams in Ford books suck.

I rather fix it myself before I pay some a lot of money for a similar fix.
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Old 07-26-2011, 03:29 AM
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Thanks, that's the first thing I checked no blown fuses, normally the 30 amp maxi fuse blows when shorted, and a year ago I just put in a new fuel filter assembly due to a leak in the original one which had a shorted heating element.

Thanx,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chop View Post
Could it be the fuel bowl heater shorted?
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Old 07-26-2011, 04:10 AM
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The EBV(exhaust backpressure valve) should be open, not closed. Just look to see if the rod coming out of the turbo pedestal is retracted into the pedestal. I doubt this is your issue though. Even if it was stuck shut I would think it would start up but have low power.

The EBP sensor shouldn't have anything to do with it not starting. It's only used to moniter the EBV valve for cold warmup conditions, and with it being so warm out it shouldn't have tried to close anyway.

Can you moniter any engine data with your scan tool? You need to see if you're building any ICP pressure. Seeing as it's not smoking at all it makes me think you either have a high pressure oil issue, or an electrical issue. Can you do a KOEO (key on engine off) test with your scanner? Try that and see if it throws anything.

Also, how do you know you have good fuel pressure? Have you put a manual gauge on it? Or at least held the schrader valve open and had someone crank it? You should have fuel spraying out when you do this.
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Old 07-26-2011, 05:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justinmix View Post
The EBV(exhaust backpressure valve) should be open, not closed. Just look to see if the rod coming out of the turbo pedestal is retracted into the pedestal. I doubt this is your issue though. Even if it was stuck shut I would think it would start up but have low power.

The EBP sensor shouldn't have anything to do with it not starting. It's only used to moniter the EBV valve for cold warmup conditions, and with it being so warm out it shouldn't have tried to close anyway.

Can you moniter any engine data with your scan tool? You need to see if you're building any ICP pressure. Seeing as it's not smoking at all it makes me think you either have a high pressure oil issue, or an electrical issue. Can you do a KOEO (key on engine off) test with your scanner? Try that and see if it throws anything.

Also, how do you know you have good fuel pressure? Have you put a manual gauge on it? Or at least held the schrader valve open and had someone crank it? You should have fuel spraying out when you do this.
I'll look at what I can monitor, with Autotap. I'm guessing ICP Injector control Pressure? I can't do a KOEO, but I can check for DTC's and other error message, since I clear the keep alive message from PCM from charging the batteries no other codes with my tool.

I have not checked fuel pressure and I don't have a gauge to put on, but I'm guessing you mean to disconnect one of the lines to the left or bank to see if I getting High pressure fuel or do you mean the filter drain?

Note I did check the reservoir for the high pressure oil pump it was around 1 and 1/8 from top so I topped it off with oil. Then check the next it was close to level it was when I filled it.
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